What do y'all think of 5W-20?

Below is an example of the temperature range of different oil grades


Note: The chart above doesn't show a SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 grade, however, based on this chart, the temperature range of a 0W-20 multi-grade would be "-40°C to +30°C" and a 5W-20 would be "-35°C(-31*F) to +30°C"(86*F).

https://www.selectsynthetics.com/part-3--what-oil-grade-should-i-use-.html

Discussion re 0W-20 and 5W-20:
A. Cold Viscosity
An oil’s viscosity is the measurement of its resistance to flow. It also refers to the oil’s thickness at various temperature settings.

0W-20 motor oil acts as an SAE 0W weight oil at cold temperature settings. On the other hand, 5W-20 oil acts as an SAE 5W weight oil.

In SAE terminology, the lower the number before the ‘W’ is, the better the motor oil performs at cold temps. As 0W20 is a far thinner oil than 5W-20, it is more stable at cold temperature than the latter and flows smoothly through the critical engine parts.

5W-20 is a comparatively thicker viscosity oil and is better for a normal operating temperature range of -22°F to 68°F.

B. Hot Viscosity
Both oils act as an SAE 20 weight oil at warmer temperature settings. They provide decent fuel consumption, resulting in better fuel economy while lubricating all your critical engine parts.

In terms of their operating temperature range, both these grades operate well up to 68 °F. They are resistant to problems like oil burning and excessive oil consumption under high oil pressure and warmer temperature conditions.

https://www.repairsmith.com/blog/0w-20-vs-5w-20/

 

Thanks for posting this. If accurate, most of us should be running 5-30 or 0-30! Cause most of us end up driving at temps above 86 def F!

(PS, I think you have a couple typos -- 68 deg instead of 86 deg)

EDIT: In your link I noted the following statement:

On the other hand, 5W-20 has a higher viscosity and performs slightly better in seasonal climates. It’s a slightly thicker oil and is more resistant to oil thinning at hotter temperatures.

THIS is my theory for running 5-20 instead of 0-20. I see that 5-20 is recommended for this reason by some of the smart folks on the forum I joined for my GR86.

 

The second section discussed both oil weights (0W/20 and 5W-20), and it says that both work well up to 68*.
My opinion, FWIW, is that it’s best to 68*, and works well up to 86*. Still working, but not optimally. Above 86* a different weight oil should be used.

 

That 68° or whatever temperature is to be considered for ease of cold starting. After it’s started and is driven gently for a while the oil rapidly rises to its operating temperature of about 230°F. That’s where a thicker oil like 5W-30 protects better, especially under heavy loads (towing, 4Wheeling, high speed highway driving).

 

I change my oil regularly at 5037 miles - give or take a 1000....

 

for what it's worth - as an additional data point here, i've run 5W-30 and currently 0W-40 in mine for almost the entire life of the vehicle, based on the international recommendations. the US recommendations, IMO, are driven entirely by fleet average fuel economy goals that the manufacturer wants to maximize for CAFE credits. this is not to say 20 weight won't do the job for most people, but i live in a very hot climate 9 months out of the year, do road trips heavily loaded, and tow a camper. i made the call that my use case would easily warrant that grade of oil if the manufacturer made allowances for it.

i'm at 40k miles now in my mostly stock 4R and even using this "heavy" oil i can still easily manage 20mpg highway at 75mph. engine is smooth and quiet. i've done 3 oil analysis and all have returned outstanding wear metal readings on roughly 6-8k mile oil changes. i intend to keep this thing for as long as possible, so i'd be happy to chime back in with additional reports on my experiences over time. honestly - run whatever you feel is a good fit for your use case.

hope that helps ease any worries.

 

since 1000 miles factory fill, M1 0W40 in mine till it blows up. Many on this forum will insist that will happen because its not whats printed on the cap

 

are you me?!

that's been how i've done it as well, and M1 0W-40 is my go-to. such a stellar oil for the price ($25 for a 5qt jug at walmart all day). as a bonus, its all i need to stock on my shelf because my other vehicle uses it as well.

 

Its a 4oh, as long as its got some type of oil you'll be fine.

 

exactly. In my climate I could actually get by with 15w40 year round

 

GFs 2020 corolla also gets the 0w40 and no explosion yet

 

I feel guilty. I just changed my oil at 12000 miles since my last oil change with the cheapest 0W-20 I could find (Mobil 1 AFE)

 

I asked about that one in another thread. Apparently its from an Amsoil blog post. While it may be the oil makers condemned ranges, its not specific to this engine so I would be careful taking it too authoritatively. Consider a chart for a big diesel may say 20w50 is good at the temp you drive, doesn't mean its good for the tolerances in the 1GR.



On the other hand, this chart has been posted before and comes right out of the user manual from prior years. Since nothing in the engine has changed, I also buy the "CAFE change" theory and would fee comfortable using any of these grades:

 

The CAFE reasons. Discussed in numerous threads. Here’s one:
https://www.4runners.com/threads/why-is-puerto-rico-able-to-use-15w-40.18928/#post-229077

 

It doesn't matter, brand of oil doesn't matter either. I get the cheapest synthetic i can find and go 10k between changes

 

Watch out now someone is going to post the youtube of why not to go 10k soon.

 

I think 10K VS 5K already came up.

I go by the manual. If I didn't wheel, tow, haul, have oversized tires and a roof rack, I'd do 10K just like I did on my '03. I do 5K now because I abuse this one way more.

 

I feel the itch but im gonna let someone else scratch it

 

One more poke at the viscosity dead horse:

A new forum member from Chile, with a 2022 Limited. No CAFE regulations there.
Owner manual says the recommended oil, depending on the temperature, is 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30, but the preferred oil is 0W-20.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/new-member-from-chile.29507/#post-416546

 

And somebody else will post a discussion from BITOG and a screenshot of a blackstone analysis done at 10k indicating the interval could have gone longer

 

High IQ engineers with years of experience, knowledge, and education + an engine that has been tried and true for many years > you

No offense, just saying...

 

You forgot Pro grille? Yes or no?

 

I hear a Raptor Lights poke coming as well

 

Thanks for those ideas! I’ll add them to the list and post them at the next opportunity.

Raptor lights were already on the list.

 

And effing bull bars...... the worst thing ever.

 

Lol rookie

 

I think when people note long term engine life, I need to see it as a rate with geographical clustering and driving types. Just because a bunch of folks say they have no issues with high mileage, doesn’t make it so. This is a bias confirmation approach vs fact. As it relates to oil, you’re better off changing it more often with cheap stuff than going longer with expensive stuff. Working for a Nissan dealership and a Honda dealership most of the mechanics that had weekend cars just used the dealership bulk oil and changed their oil once a month in the summer. Only a couple of them had really high performance machines (ex. 9s Civic, 15 yrs ago) running that Royal purple stuff. As car care nut says, as long as it’s brown and slippery.

 

Since the manufacturer recommends 0W-20. Why not stick to that.
Once a vehicle reaches 75/100K milestone.... That's when we switch to next thicker oil - 5W-20 maybe

For example.. my old 2009 Camry 125k miles states 0W-20. The dealership always add 5W-30 because of the mileage

Just my 2c

 

5W-20 is only thicker when it's cold.

Edit:. 0W-30 seems like it would make sense, though.

 

Don't go there you gonna hurt a lot of feeling talking about bull bars now.