Where to tap power for illuminated switches?

I have a question about my 2015 SR5P. I'm installing a pair of illuminated switches for both front lightbars, and I'd like to have the switch LEDs come on when the lights are on, like some of the OEM switches do.

Can anyone let me know where I can access power at the switches? It seems simpler to access the power at the switches, then the wiring would only be a few inches in length.

Thanks in advance.

 

Use the 30A (P/Seat F/L) option. That has constant power:

 

Sorry, I may not have been clear. I don't want the switches illuminated all the time, I just want them on when the headlights/running lights are on.

That's why I thought that tapping into a power wire at the switches would be the simplest way to do that. I just don't know which wire has power when the headlights/running lights are on.

 

Use positaps and be confident on your connection.

The following is what I did when powering my light bar and switch on my 2014 T4R.
Circuit illustration provided.

 

Someone makes an adapter with two plugs and a pair of pigtails. You unplug the connectors from any nearby lighted switch, plug in the adapter between the two connectors, and then wire the pig tails into the new switch. I can’t remember who makes it.

@Saker Yes to the Positaps! Friends don’t let friends use ScotchLoks.

 

@Captain Spalding
I would like info on the adapter plug you are referring too!

 

I used an add a fuse on TAIL circuit inside.

 

Found the bookmark!

CH4X4 DAISY CHAIN HARNESS FOR TOYOTA “PUSH STYLE” SWITCHES

 

Thanks for that. I like that over an add a fuse.

 

I decided to try the add-a-fuse on the taillight fuse. Electrically it works the way I'd like, so the switches are illuminated when the taillights are on. The advantage I see to this is the power is fused as it should be, and the wiring is still fairly short, even after allowing for enough slack to remove the lower dash panel. Now to run a couple of wires from the relay location through the firewall to the switches. These will be fused as well. I'm switching the ground rather than the +12v side, the wiring is easier that way. I still have to figure out where to mount the relays, but I think this will work but I need to pick up some inline fuse holders for the wires going to the switches. I want to use the same type of fuses as in the fuse block, that way I don't need multiple types of fuses in my spares.

Also, this way I don't need any positaps to the OEM harness.