What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

1) Took me years to reach the point I was ok with drilling, but decided it was time to cross this project off my list. After deburring I did file and sand a little extra than I've seen others do on Youtube. Then etching primer coat, then epoxy coat - w proper drying times. I also swapped out the fender washers it came with the same size sealing washers after coating the holes from behind w HV Woolwax grease. On the bracket for the A Pillar (and tube connection under the fender) I used Sika Flex 221 as an additional silicone layer of protection.

Where I'm now slightly worried about rust, is on the edges of the holes where the fender flare clips sit. Two of mine had small bubbles forming. I don't see how even with a wand from inside the fender liner somehow you could reach these to spray, and my seal as I was removing it didn't have any open areas. I guess moisture finds a way. Pic below is not mine but where I spotted the bubbles of rust.



2) I was looking at a Trail Hunter and how that snorkel is set up when at the dealer picking up new clips and thinking if after market companies will follow this design one day. With the research I've done and it was a lot; snow/rain comments, a ton of Aussie and Middle East videos/reviews I felt ok with the design. Will keep an eye on any water if it does get in the snorkel and snorkel tube. The TRD CAI has a small opening at the lowest bolt (bushing) on the box where it attaches to the fender, would take a great amount of water to make it there if it could since the CAI "vortex" coupler is a good a fit but not waterproof, any water would drip out the bottom into the fender well I'm guessing.

 

yeah your gonna have to order from an Australia based store I think:
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...een-drivers-side-fitment-red/SPO10020645.html
(not sure if it really matters driver side or passenger side because the material is flexible)

but yeah if going the DIY route:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ufi-bf-1
or any of the generic foam air filter materials.
https://www.amazon.com/air-filter-foam-material/s?k=air+filter+foam+material

 

I appreciate that info.

 

OE panels keeps the interior tidy.

(Although I need to buy some switch blanks)[/QUOTE]

My AuxBeam kit came with 5 or 6 switch blanks. I couldn't take the glaring light appearing in the side mirror at night from the empty switches and they cured tat immediately.

 

I'm curious how these work for you.
I had some but ended up swapping for durobumps. Noticed during articulation the axle would lean so much the perry parts rear bump stops would just "flop" out of the way.
I think that is only an issue with the extended travel rear shocks. Since the axle articulation is much better.

I still run them perry parts in the front. But the rears got swapped with durobumps.

 

Hmm that quote came through odd. I thought a bought was stealing my post at first!lol

Anyways I'd really expect the auxbeam and/or oepanels in-lay come with some switch blanks... they both relieve the need for the oem style switches.

Luckily OnBoardAir has a store front on ebay where they sell them for $4. Not too bad considering that's the same price as the shitty 3D printed one's on etsy

 

Yeah I'm not extended travel, 6112's at 2" up front and 5160's at 1.5" in the back.

 

Yes that's why I'm curious how they work for you.

Since swapping I've been hesitant to recommend their rear bump stops. I haven't verified they don't "flop over" with regular shocks.


Let me know how they treat you during articulation with normal travel shocks. Their fronts are great!

 

I have the bridgestone A/T Ascents and I actually was looking at the Nokian Outpost Nat's as a future tire option(maybe the Goodyear Duratrac RT's now)

I initially liked the bridgestone ascents, they rode smooth, they look great and I am only hindered by my ground clearance in the snow.. thats where the positives end.

They have some road noise, despite all the glowing reviews saying otherwise, traction in light mud and hardpacked snow is basically nonexistent, sidewalls are too soft and easily punctured, so for that reason not great on gravel roads, also leading me to loss all faith that they can be trusted much of the pavement as an A/T tire at all.

Looking at reviews now, I see bridgestone is trying to promote them as an A/T tire for "luxury" suv's etc.. making me think they know they shouldnt be in the same category as other popular A/T options.

 

I've heard good stuff about the Nitto Terra Grappler G3

 

We loved our Siennas. We had two and kept both over 100,000 miles. Just sold our 2012 since we no longer need a family hauler. That engine and transmission was magic. Never felt underpowered. Shifting was smooth. Great vehicles.

 

i invested in a $30 creeper from Harbor Freight, makes moving around easier undee there.

 

Update:

Small piece of Jambo prep. Reliable power distribution
Before and after


Full after shot of the terminal upgrade and the switch panel

 

Monday I installed the millercat catalytic converter shield. This was my second time doing so, as this 4runner is new to us. Took me just about an hour and I appreciate the added sense of security.

 

I see from their product page:
https://millercat.com/collections/c...cat-2014-2022-toyota-4-runner-4-0l-cat-shield
"Part of Toyota’s Associated Accessory Product line" -- This program was announced back in 2022 https://pressroom.lexus.com/toyota-and-lexus-announce-associated-accessory-products-at-sema-show/

I'm not finding them listed on the official Toyota accessories page: https://www.toyota.com/accessories/
Do you have the Toyota part number or Toyota product page info?

silly me:
https://autoparts.toyota.com/search?search_query=millercat
6 different part numbers for the same thing?
MillerCAT #PTN59-89220
MillerCAT #PTN59-89221
MillerCAT #PTN59-89222
MillerCAT #PTN59-89224
MillerCAT #PTN59-89223
MillerCAT #PTN59-89225

MillerCAT #PTN59-89140 (no clue why this one is so much more)

I asked about the Toyota accessory.. because often there are sales.. like the 25% off from Southeast Toyota dealers
https://autoparts.atlantatoyota.com/promotion-terms

 

The terminals are great investment, running them for a bit over a year now.

 

Glad to hear! I had doubts when I was modifying them to install properly. Apparently these aren’t a direct bolt on for some models. Had to get creative with the positive terminal. Turned out nice though!

edit: I guess the 2020+ models come with an extra fuse on the positive terminal. I chopped the original cover and retained the back portion. Then trimmed the SDHQ rubber terminal cover to accept the large fuse. Worked alright.

ps: at first I was pestered by the fact that these terminals are sold with std hardware but then realized they chose their sizes carefully… 3/8=14mm -> 5/16=13mm -> 1/4=11mm… all being near perfect matches so they’ll work with metric or std tools. I’m not mad about it

 

I can't wait to wash these!

 

nice they arrived, congrats
not nearly as bad to keep clean as these monstrosity’s I saw at a dealer today !

 

The only drawback of Millercat shields is they have to be removed if you want to grease the drive shafts.

 

Got a link?

 

I dont know. Im just throwing questions out there but do you think with enough lift you need adjustable trailing arms and did you have and were they adjusted/aligned properly?

And then I like that when you check out at Perry's it asks how much lift you got and your tire size so you have a properly sized bump stops.....now granted ive only ordered for a taco but I assume its the same.

I dont know if durabump has that much flexibility on sizing or you just gotta guess. I havent looked into bump stops in quite some time.

 

SDHQ terminals.
If you have a 2020+ model with a fuse on top of the positive post there are some extra instructions to be aware of

No guessing involved really. You just look at extended and collapsed shock lengths if all you’re worried about is bottoming out a shock internally (Lt rear shocks typically require a 3 lift and bump stops to match)

If you’re worried about the tire getting into the body: remove the spring, cycle suspension, measure how much you want to limit up travel to prevent the wheel tearing into the door/quarter panel. No need to guess.





As to your other question, I actually reached out to Perry Parts about this problem. They told me when the axle gets so far off axis from the body the bump stop doesn’t have a solid strike surface.

What I found in testing was the Perry parts rear bump stops are so soft they’ll just fold over if the axle and body aren’t aligned. This happened during articulation consistently. Whereas the durobumps (being made of a much stiffer material) would not fold. Regardless how off axis the body and rear axle is.



I don’t think this would be a problem with non-LT rear shocks because the axle can never get that off axis from the body

 

I appreciate you including pics to illustrate the effect and the explanation. Are you running a panhard bar correction kit?

Also appreciate the link to the terminals thank you.

 

I had to tweek one of the rubber covers on my 2018, don't recall why but probably the positive for the winch. Either way they worked out great.

 

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/battery-adapter-top-post-ordnance-military-style
I've put these on my 4th gen and of the many different styles I've tried on different stuff these are by far my favorite. You can stack as many cables as you need on just put the highest drawing cables right against the lead on either side.

 

Yes I am.
Also running extended rear links to bring my wheelbase back to stock numbers (wheelbase shrinks a tiny bit as you lift)
*as well of front track width btw.

But the bump stops would fold left/right: Whichever way the axle slopes in relation to the body. They couldn’t bend forward/backward, they’re much more ridged in that direction.

 

I turned the Eco dash light back on! Looking to see if that can help me bump up my average any.

 

What exactly does that do?

 

Hand washed and dried the 2018 after a trip yesterday