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Watt maker's 4th gen build

Discussion in '4th Gen Builds (2003-2009)' started by Watt maker, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:27 AM
    #1
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    So I've owned this 2008 4Runner since 2008 and it's been a great vehicle. We've taken it all over the southwest.

    So for starters, I'm terrible at taking pictures. Not necessarily the taking part but the remembering to take them part. The other thing is I didn't have a smart phone (or even a phone with a camera) until 2011. Unfortunately, my digital camera at the time was clunky and finicky to use. I do take more pictures now though.

    A little history first. My wife and I are the second owners. We initially had our hearts set on a white sport edition but the dealers around us wanted full MSRP for one not to mention, practically stealing my trade from me. There also wasn't much of SE 4Runners in the used market either. Finally, this one appeared in an online ad at the Honda dealer. 6 months old, not even 10k miles yet, locally owned. After an all afternoon negotiations, we said goodbye to our G6 (actually my wife didn't, she gave it the bird) and drove home in our new-to-us 4Runner. Not exactly what we wanted but we did save a ton of money. So it's black instead of white, tan interior instead of grey, SR5 instead of SE but we did get the 4x4 and the V6, yes, we did in fact specifically want the V6.

    I'll slowly be adding pictures to this thread as I come across them and hopefully adding some new stuff.

    This pic is not too long after we bought it. IIRC, the windows were tinted a few days before this pic. This is also it's first trip to Bluewater lake.

    [​IMG]


    These are the most current pics;

    [​IMG]


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    [​IMG]

    There were mods completed before I ever had a build thread (I will try to find the "in progress" pictures) they include: 15% tint all around, Huskyliner weather beaters, Escort 8500 blue hardwired, countryjoycrafts.comradar detector mount, Avital remote start/alarm, axle vent mod, OEM block heater, exhaust resonator delete with re-route to side, Pioneer AVH-3300BT with XM, Kenwood backup camera, FJ Cruiser springs, Bilstein 5100's set at 1.75", Daystar 1.5" rear spacer, map light mod, anytime fog light mod, OEM steps deleted, 2014 Trail Edition wheels, BFG KO2 tires, led license plate lights, Sound ordinance sub.
     
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  2. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:28 AM
    #2
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Picked up some SE wheels and used them for a while. Also had Hankook ATs for while.


    [​IMG]


    I ended up swapping the SE wheels for the TE wheels after we installed new wheels on our 5th gen.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:29 AM
    #3
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I tried wet-sanding, a few different polishes, and sealers but the OEM headlights just continue to yellow and get hazy. I finally gave in and purchased these black housing headlights off of ebay. I think the look is much better.

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:31 AM
    #4
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I jumped on the Tred group buy in 2015 and picked up a pair. I wanted to be able to carry them when I go offroad and take them off completely when I don't need them and still have a perfectly flat, unobstructed rack. I know Tred makes mounts for these but I wanted to see if I could come up with something first. Below is what I came up with to mount them. Note, at some point (hopefully) I will be adding either a Baja rack or Prinsu or Eezi-Awn K9 rack.

    [​IMG]

    The point of no return.

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    Once the holes were drilled, I filled the open areas around the holes inside the crossbar with black silicon. I let it cure for a few days but surprisingly, even with the near triple digit heat, the silicon inside was not fully cured.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:33 AM
    #5
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I used a large punch to poke through the holes that I filled with silicone. Only the top and bottom were cured after nearly a week in blazing hot sun but it left the holes exactly how I wanted them. The crossbars are sealed from any dirt, water getting in through the holes I drilled.

    [​IMG]

    This is what I'm using to hold the treds on; four 4.5"x .5" trailer hitch pins, two springs I had laying around, some 1/2" washers, two rubber shock bushings cut in half, two small Masterlocks. I painted the pins, washers, and springs so hopefully they wont rust too bad. I'm Not going to leave them on all the time anyway.

    [​IMG]


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  6. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:39 AM
    #6
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    DIY Satoshi grill.

    Just look at all that chrome!

    [​IMG]

    Got the inside of the grill all sanded and smooth. This grill has some chips and nicks in it so the face of the grill was sanded as well to help smooth those out as well.

    [​IMG]

    I thought I would be a step ahead when I ordered the black mesh instead of raw aluminum. Well, after bending it, I discovered this was not the case and I would have to paint it anyway. Also, I ordered this mesh off of Amazon but I wouldn't order the same mesh if I had to do it over. This stuff is pretty flimsy and brittle.

    [​IMG]

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    Looks much better than the chrome I think.
    [​IMG]

    I went ahead and mounted a TOYOTA emblem from an old FJ 40. Not sure if I'll put that on the next one but anyway here it is.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:39 AM
    #7
    HoBoDanny

    HoBoDanny Dude...

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    RCI Skid Plate CBI Ditch Light Brackets Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 265 70R17 113T Tires 1.25” Wheel Spacers TPMS Bypass Mod Hydrocarbon Filter Removed Merca decal 2” leveling kit front only Black headlights
    Love the build so far keep it coming! I’m getting a lot of inspiration.
     
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  8. Feb 10, 2019 at 10:54 AM
    #8
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Added a CB radio. I'll be moving to HAM radio eventually...

    [​IMG]


    Unfortunately, the fun was short lived when I noticed that the Comet lip mount for the antenna has way too big of hole for the Firestik stud.


    [​IMG]
    Apparently, I shouldn't let Jack Daniels help me plan my build and order stuff. FYI- the Comet RS-720 has a 3/4" hole that is to be used with NMO style mounts (more common with HAM radios, I guess). To use the Firestik antenna and spring I needed the Comet HD-5 mount. Cool thing, this mount comes with coax cable already attached.

    Since I had to run some coax cable to the front and that involves pulling interior panels anyway, I figured I would drop the headliner and see if I could solve that annoying sunroof rattle.

    [​IMG]

    I was fighting multiple rattles from the sunroof. One from the linkages that hold the glass, one from a couple nuts loose that hold the whole sunroof frame in place, and a couple from the sunshade (one from the shade fitting loose in the tracks, and one from the shade resting on a metal cross-member). So my fixes are; two rubber shock bushings jammed up between the frame and the rear corners of the glass, re-torqued all the nuts and bolts holding the sunroof frame in place, squeezing the aluminum tracks for the shade very slightly for a tighter fit, and stuffing a piece of foam between the shade and the metal cross-member. The sunroof will not work with all of this in place but that's ok because I don't use the stupid thing anyway. If I took out the foam and rubber bushings, the sunroof would still work though. Fingers crossed!

    I also plasti-dipped the rear chrome garnish above the license plate while I was at it.

    [​IMG]

    When the correct cb antenna mount came in earlier this week so I started over with the cb install yesterday. I'm using the Comet HD-5 cb antenna mount. Right out of the box, I can tell this is a much more robust antenna mount than the Comet RS-720 that I previously purchased. The Comet HD-5 comes with 16.6 ft of coax cable already attached. The downside is you will have to scrape a little paint off in order to properly ground the mount and antenna. I used some di-electric grease so hopefully the rear door won't start rusting. As far as holding the coax cable to the door, I'm just using black gorilla tape.

    [​IMG]


    I ran the cable up along the inside of the door and into the rear door wire harness boot. The other nice thing about the cable that comes with the Comet mount is that the connector comes apart so you can get it through tight spaces easier.

    [​IMG]


    I routed the cable along with the OEM harness on the driver side. Originally, I was going to run the cable on the passenger side but I realized the cable was going to be too short.

    [​IMG]


    I decided to mount the cb radio inside the center console. This is all the coax cable that is left. Hard to believe that I used up all 16.6 ft. of cable from the rear door to the console. Originally, I estimated ( I thought I severely over-estimated) 18 ft but figured 16.6 would work.

    [​IMG]

    I also mounted an external speaker in the cubby door.

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    This is all the trimming I had to do to fit it in. I did have to go to Ace Hardware and get longer screws for the speaker as well as trim off a lip on the speaker grill so it would fit snug on the front of the door.

    [​IMG]

    Sitting in the front seat, you can hardly notice the speaker.

    [​IMG]

    CB inside the center console.

    [​IMG]

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    4ft. Firefly antenna with a HD spring and a quick disconnect.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:07 PM
    #9
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Thanks! I'll be adding stuff here and there. I have a lot of plans for this rig, just not quite enough money and especially no time.
     
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  10. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:08 PM
    #10
    HoBoDanny

    HoBoDanny Dude...

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    RCI Skid Plate CBI Ditch Light Brackets Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 265 70R17 113T Tires 1.25” Wheel Spacers TPMS Bypass Mod Hydrocarbon Filter Removed Merca decal 2” leveling kit front only Black headlights
    All good! I know the feeling.
     
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  11. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:15 PM
    #11
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    My dad, kiddos and myself went to the 2015 FJ Summit. If you've never been to that event before, I highly recommend it! I honestly didn't take too many pics because I was driving but thankfully my dad was there to fill in as photographer. I'm also thankful my dad was able to go at all. Both me and him have been crazy busy the last few years so we haven't had a chance to hang out in a long time. This trip was the perfect remedy.

    My 4th gen worked flawlessly but by the end of the trip I did have a couple LCA bolts loosen up just a little. The slight pop in the front end every now and then was the giveaway. I didn't find them loose until I returned home and went over everything with a torque wrench. I've never had that happen on this vehicle before but every now and then, especially after some very rough terrain they do back off some.

    We took a ton of pictures but here are some of my favorites.

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    [​IMG]

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    This was an interesting shot. Just as we pulled up to get pics of our rigs on "The Rock" heading up Imogene Pass, a crazy little thunderstorm with sleet rolls in. My poor dad was braving the storm trying to get a pic but this was as good as it was going to get. Unfortunately, we couldn't just sit and wait because the next group was coming up behind us.
    [​IMG]

    Yes, that is ice on Lake Como, in July.
    [​IMG]

    Can you spot my 4runner?
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:19 PM
    #12
    MattAK

    MattAK t4r.org refugee

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    Fixed broken shiz. Dobinson's 2.5"
    Do you remember what manufacturer made your headlights? I'm thinking of picking up a set of black ones. How does the light output look?

    Also thinking of stealing your speaker placement idea for my HAM radio. Mine's currently under the seat and too much of the sound is getting lost down there.
     
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  13. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:26 PM
    #13
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Upgrading from 265/70/17 KO2's to 255/80/17 Cooper ST Maxx.

    [​IMG]

    My KO2's have been perfect and still have a ton of tread left bu I have a fascination about running 255/80/17. Honestly, I should've just bought them last year when I purchased the KO2's but at the time I wanted to run the KO2 but I didn't want to pay the premium for the KO2 in the 34/10.50/17 so I went with 265/70/17. As for these KO2's, I already have them sold to a coworker of mine for his 2016 Tacoma.

    Just a little taller.
    [​IMG]

    I mounted the 255/80/17 Coopers for a test fit. FWIW, at this point I was running some worn out 5100's on the third notch up with some partially sagged FJ Cruiser springs in the front and some sagging FJ Cruiser springs and Daystar 1.5" spacers in the rear.

    These ST Maxx are about 1.6" taller than my 265/70/17 KO2's when mounted on the same wheel, at the same pressure, without the vehicle weight on them. The 255's are just a hair narrower (as expected) and would be great on a 6.5 or 7" wide wheel. These 7.5" TE wheels are probably the widest wheel I would run with these 255, again just my opinion.

    They are close when turning but did not rub anywhere while lightly wheeling on my property.

    I definitely like the look of a more "filled" wheel well. This size of tire with these wheels on a slightly lifted 4th gen fit perfect.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had a little bit of rub on the front inner fender liner so I went directly home after the tire shop and heated, pushed, and re-drilled the inner liner as well as trim just a bit off the front bumper. Plenty of clearance there now. They are close to the cab mount but so far have not contacted it. I'll probably chop that down the road for good measure. The only place I seem to rub now is actually with the back tires when it is really flexed and they stuff in the wheel well. Luckily, it's a very minor rub that has subsided some as the tires wear down.

    [​IMG]


    I was also able to stuff a 255 in the factory location by cutting off a tab above the track bar that is used to center the OEM size spare. Unfortunately, this tab doesn't allow a 255 to sit up into the spare tire well and lets it hit the track bar. This tab also keeps the tire off the charcoal canister so in it's place but a little higher up, I welded a piece of 2" x 3/16" flat strap to keep the tire off the charcoal canister as well.
    [​IMG]

    It's very close but it clears the track bar by about 3/8". In order for the 255 to sit up in the spare tire well, I had to let all the air out, get it into place, then refill the tire. It's a very tight fit and what I would consider the largest tire that could possibly fit there.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:27 PM
    #14
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Added a RCI skid plate as well as a Fumoto oil drain valve.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:32 PM
    #15
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I added some Wheeler's Offroad Superbumps. At this point in time, I was planning on getting some due to a plate bumper and winch I have planned. Just before I added these, I bottomed my suspension pretty hard and it made it more than evident that the OEM bumpstops are lacking. It also made it evident that these 5100s with close to 100k on them were shot.

    Here you can see how much taller the Superbumps are.
    [​IMG]

    I've had some hard landings over the years but these bumpstops rarely touched the LCA.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I found it ironic that the day I install better bumpstops is also the day the county decides to patch potholes and actually does a good job at it.
     
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  16. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:35 PM
    #16
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Back in mid-2016, I had to use the 4th gen to transport a couple of Jeeps from NM to Phoenix. In order to safely accomplish that I installed a electric trailer brake controller and a set of air bags. Unfortunately, I just realized I never took any pics of said air bags but it looks pretty much just like any other airbag install.

    I picked up this brake controller from Amazon fairly cheap. It's a very basic controller that was roughly the physical size I wanted and I liked the way the face was slanted. The square body was ideal for this location since I didn't use the included bracket to mount to the fuse panel door but instead used industrial double sided tape. This brake controller works perfect with the 16 ft. utility trailer I use.

    [​IMG]

    With the brake controller and airbags installed, the 4th gen was ready for towing duty. One at a time I transported these Jeeps to Phoenix. The 4runner did amazing on both trips traveling around 65 mph. Never once did the transmission or anything else get hot.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:40 PM
    #17
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    The airbags were great for some heavier towing in May but even at the minimum pressure, you can feel them back there. To make matters worse, the Bilstein 5100's had about 100k on them and one of the rear shocks was leaking. I missed the smoother ride it once had and really missed it after driving my 5th gen which is very nice over any terrain.

    I found some new Bilstein 6112's and some lightly used Icon 2" rear springs and some FOX 2.0 shocks to help smooth things out. Not in the picture, but sitting on my toolbox, are new OEM rear spring isolator/bump stops. I cut the original ones for the airbag install. Had I known how hard it is to find the isolators, I wouldn't have cut the originals.

    Also, some sliders from Stubbs Welding found their way to my garage. I can't say enough good things to say about Richard at Stubbs Welding. He worked through a 4th of July weekend to get these sliders to me so I had enough time to install them before the 2016 FJ Summit.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:58 PM
    #18
    HoBoDanny

    HoBoDanny Dude...

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    RCI Skid Plate CBI Ditch Light Brackets Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 265 70R17 113T Tires 1.25” Wheel Spacers TPMS Bypass Mod Hydrocarbon Filter Removed Merca decal 2” leveling kit front only Black headlights
    Did you go with an aluminum RCI skid?
     
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  19. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #19
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Did some quick-n-dirty (literally) fit testing with the sliders before I painted and welded them on. I love how these follow the body lines!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Sliders primed and painted
    [​IMG]

    I used this Hammered paint for the sliders. I was hoping it would be a little more black. Oh well.
    [​IMG]

    No going back now!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:17 PM
    #20
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    After the sliders, the new suspension was added.

    [​IMG]

    4th notch up, 1/4" spacer on the driver side. Ended up with the passenger side being a 1/4" higher. After a short test drive and going over some bumps to settle the front, it lifted the front 2". What is interesting is I was running 5100's on the 3rd notch up (1.75") and FJ springs. I'm guessing those springs were sagging worse than I thought. I do know that over time the ride quality really went downhill with the 5100's.
    [​IMG]

    Much more controlled yet smooth ride with the 6112's, Icon rear springs, and Fox shocks. I drive down some of our 3rd world country roads at speeds that used to make me cringe with the 5100's but now they don't even feel like the same roads.

    Now to be totally honest with everyone, while the 6112 may be the most robust front OEM style coilover out there, these are not on the same level as a coilover from King, Fox, and especially Icon. Also to me, there's quite a bit of difference between how my 5th gen with Icons rides and how these ride. The Icons on my 5th gen are remarkable a soaking up every bump. These 6112s are kind of close but there is a difference. However, It could be from having these set on the 4th notch up. The other big difference is wheel travel. Granted, I'm spoiled with the extended travel Icons but these 6112's don't seem like they have much travel. In fact, I swear I felt them top out a couple times today when I wasn't pushing them that hard. Again, this could be related to having them set on the 4th notch up which lifted the front more than I was expecting. Hopefully these settle a little. Also, I may order the Toytec tophat which gives some lift and drop these to the 3rd notch to see if that helps. On the other hand , you could buy 2 sets of these for what basic Icons cost.
     
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  21. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:24 PM
    #21
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Some pics from the 2016 FJ Summit. My wife drove our 5th gen (that white one) and did amazing!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Leaving the beautiful Ouray area. I definitely miss it!
    [​IMG]

    On the way back we stopped at Honeyville just North of Durango. Pretty cool little store.
    [​IMG]

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    Can you find our 4Runners?
    [​IMG]
     
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  22. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:28 PM
    #22
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    The Comet HD-5 (I think that's the model) seemed sturdy at first but finally ended up breaking on Imogene pass. Apparently, a 4' Firestik, HD spring, and quick connect are just too much to handle on a rough road. I fixed it using what was available at the Ouray hardware store and it worked but I needed to apply a better fix.

    Where the big silver fender washers are used to be a thick machined washer. Unfortunately, that big thick washer is what broke on the trail.
    [​IMG]

    I cut this piece of 1/8"x1.5"x1.5" aluminum angle stock and ground it down to this.
    [​IMG]

    I applied some 3M VHB double sided tape to the "feet" of the bracket I made then painted it black. Originally, the Comet mount used a small metric allen screw and threaded into the end piece. I drilled through that end piece and used a longer stainless steel 1/4" bolt that goes through my bracket as well and secures with a stainless steel acorn nut.
    [​IMG]

    The Comet mount is now very sturdy and has held up great on the rough roads. It doesn't stick out much further than the Comet already did. Hopefully, if someone else is having trouble with their Comet mount, this can give you an idea of how to brace it a little better.
     
  23. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:30 PM
    #23
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I added some Rokmen rear trailing arms that I purchased pretty cheap through Red Dirt Offroad https://www.reddirtoffroad.com at this year's FJ summit X. These trailing arms are much beefier than the OEM ones and come with maintenance free bushings. The install was super easy but here's some pics anyway.

    The packaging is very nice with Rokmen products. You can tell they take pride in what they sell.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  24. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:38 PM
    #24
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    While I should've been flushing the transmission and antifreeze or finishing the fence around my house, I decided that I was going to finally start welding together my Relentless Fab front bumper.

    Off with the factory bumper.

    [​IMG]

    Bye bye plastic bumper!
    [​IMG]

    Center section in.
    [​IMG]

    Almost all tacked in place.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I finally finished my Relentless Fab DIY bumper.
    [​IMG]

    Looks good for Rust-oleum rattle can!
    [​IMG]

    Being this is a steel bumper and I using a Warn 8000 winch with steel cable (it's really heavy), I didn't trust the thin OEM bumper flanges to hold all this weight on their own so I fabbed some reinforcement brackets with 9/16" bolts through the frame. Shouldn't go anywhere now!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After the reinforcement brackets were completed, it was finally time to mount this bumper!
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
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  25. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:47 PM
    #25
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    While working on the bumper, I decided to install a Land Cruiser 80 series snorkel that I received for Christmas (thanks mother-in-law [​IMG]). I actually picked it out, it was around $70 on Amazon. I've wanted one for a while mostly due to some of the very dusty roads I go on but with the Relentless Fab bumper it leaves the stock intake venerable to water if I decide to go puddle jumping. Let's face it, I don't think anyone will be offering a 4th gen specific snorkel. There's just not enough demand for it in my opinion. Not only that but I don't want to pay $400-500 for one.

    I think this snorkel would be perfect (well, as perfect as we can wish for) on a 2003-2005 4runner due to the fact that they seem to have smaller, flatter fender flares. 2006 & up 4runners will have to trim about 1/2" from the top of the fender flare (more on that later) so you may want to source a more narrow snorkel.

    Here is the box and the only marking on the box.
    [​IMG]

    Yes, it's a cheap Chinese knockoff. There were no instructions and the template was off. I had to add some material to the bottom of the template just make sure I was lining it up correctly.
    [​IMG]

    I honestly spent a lot of time holding the snorkel up to the fender and trying to get the template just right. Also, building up the courage to drill some holes in a mint condition fender.
    [​IMG]

    Well, no turning back now.
    [​IMG]

    Definitely no turning back now. I used a 4" holesaw which gave me plenty of room for adjustments and the snorkel still easily covers it.
    [​IMG]

    This snorkel's outlet is just above the factory intake but unfortunately it's a little too high so I had to remove some material above the factory intake to make it work.
    [​IMG]

    The snorkel comes with a piece of rubber tubing with about a 10° angle. The angle isn't large enough to adapt it to the factory fender intake but it is enough to adapt it right to the factory rubber tubing. I used a piece of 3" ID steel exhaust tubing about 4" long to splice to rubber snorkel tubing to the factory rubber tubing. A piece of 3" ID X 3.25"ID would be ideal because 3" ID is actually too small for the factory rubber tubing so I cut off a piece from the factory plastic fender intake box and siliconed it to the exhaust tubing. Not 100% ideal but it works.
    [​IMG]

    Once the snorkel was tightened down it put the rubber tubing close to the sheet metal even though I cut some out so I used some heater hose to help prevent the sheet metal from cutting through.
    [​IMG]

    I was hoping to avoid cutting the fender flare but there just wasn't any way around it. I had to cut about a 1/2" off the top of the flare. I heated up the flare with a heat gun then used a box cutter with a new blade. I cut about 1/4" initially then some additional 1/16" to 1/8" cuts until it cleared. I ended up with a very small gap between the flare and snorkel but you can't really see unless you're looking for it.
    [​IMG]

    I also had to heat certain sections of the snorkel and help shape it to fit the 4runner better. Overall, it came out good, especially for not being made for this vehicle. There are some small gaps but I used some camper shell weather stripping around the edge of the snorkel to seal and conceal those gaps. Here's some pictures I took tonight when I finished. I will take some pictures in the daylight tomorrow as well. It took me all day to install this. Just like others have posted, it's not easy, it's not for the faint of heart, some ingenuity and imagination is required.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    One other thing is it comes with rivets for the A-pillar bracket. Rivets in the A-pillar seems like it could become a rust nightmare so I opted to use some 3M VHB double sided tape. I slightly bent the bracket so it would contour to the A-pillar better then stuck it down. So far, it's nice and sturdy. Just don't go overboard when re-shaping the snorkel or you'll end up with a big gap here. I ended up adding a 3/8" piece of HD rubber between the A-pillar and the snorkel bracket to help them fit together better ( not pictured).
    [​IMG]

    Overall, this snorkel had held up great and works good as well.
     
  26. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:53 PM
    #26
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    With the additional weight up front, I added some King 700 lb coils to help handle the weight of the bumper and winch. I also replaced the upper SPC ball joints because one of the originals had some play in it.

    Going from 600 lb coils that come with the Bilstein 6112's to King 700 lb coils. Not much difference in height, same amount of wraps but the coils themselves are noticeably thicker.

    [​IMG]

    Out with the old, in with the new.
    [​IMG]

    Here's a picture just before I started with the 600 lb coils at the 4th notch up. The front dropped about an inch with the addition of the steel bumper and winch but it still rode surprisingly well but I wanted that inch back.
    [​IMG]

    Here's a picture after the dust settled.

    [​IMG]

    So after spending the better part of a day adjusting the 6112's here's some observations on swapping in heavier coils. To start out with, the 6112's at the 4th notch (and 1/4" spacer on the driver side) measured 22 5/8" from the center of the hub to the edge of the fender. The front dropped a full inch when I added the bumper and winch, which I expected. I didn't want to compromise the ride when adding the Kings so I first installed them at the 2nd notch up. Unfortunately, this resulted in the same height as the 600 lb coils at the 4th notch. I removed the coilovers and moved the C-clip back to the 4th notch. Surprisingly, this gave me about 1.5" over what I wanted. The front was high and the ride was rough as the coilovers were topping out on just about every bump. Third times a charm, I removed the 6112's and dropped the C-clip to the third notch up. This puts the front about 1/8" below where it was before the bumper. So far, I've been happy at this height.

    The other thing I did was cut some new fender liners out of 1/16" rubber. Unfortunately I broke most of the retaining pins and the replacement pins don't seem to fit right. I dug through the garage and barely came up with enough pins and screws to install the new liners but they're on there!

    [​IMG]
     
  27. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:55 PM
    #27
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I also installed some fog lights. These are the Apex 18w amber driving lights.

    [​IMG]
     
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  28. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:58 PM
    #28
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    Finally got around to installing the cheap LED lights I purchased off Amazon some time ago. Unfortunately, the lights were a little too deep and prevented the hood from opening. I tried selling them but apparently nobody else wanted them so I decided to trim off some of the cooling fins in order to get them to fit. I also re-drilled the mounting bracket to move the entire light forward around 3/8". I have nearly zero dollars in these lights so if it didn't work out it was no big loss but in the end I think they turned out OK. These are very bright but more of a flood pattern vs. a spot pattern.

    This was the very first cut. In the end, I was able to smooth them down nicely and there's still a lot of cooling fin left.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  29. Feb 10, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    #29
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    My wife and I were lucky enough to each have another opportunity to attend the 2017 FJ Summit in Ouray CO. Both 4Runners did great and we were able to get some great shots of them up there.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  30. Feb 10, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #30
    Watt maker

    Watt maker [OP] New Member

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    I finally had the time (and ambition) to drop the transmission pan, replace the internal wiring harness, and replace the filter and ATF. I’ll admit it, I’m not a role model 4runner owner, I’ve been avoiding this for some time and the evidence was that the old ATF was pretty dark. Even though the fluid was dark, the transmission shifted like it was brand new still. Besides changing the fluid, the other reason for dropping the pan was replacing the internal transmission harness that had begun seeping ATF into the external plug. From there, the ATF can be pushed up to the ECM. In fact, I just R&R’d the complete engine/transmission harness on a friend’s FJ that was completely saturated with ATF and was causing the O2 sensors to fail. Fortunately, my 4runner wasn’t that extreme yet.

    Old and new transmission plug. Notice the oil in the old plug? The plug on my friend’s FJ was completely full of ATF and slightly pressurized.
    [​IMG]

    These are what I believe to be the main culprits. The two ATF temperature sensors.
    [​IMG]

    One good benefit of removing these sensors to replace them is that more old ATF is drained from the transmission. Just by dropping the pan, filter, and removing these sensors, almost 7 quarts of old ATF was drained.

    Even though the ATF was way past due, there was very little metal buildup on the pan magnets, and just a little bit of brass/clutch material in the filter.

    After replacing the harness, I buttoned the transmission up, filled it with fresh ATF and pumped out the rest of the old ATF using the transmission cooling lines then topped it off with more fresh WS.

    Maybe it’s the placebo effect but it does seem to shift slightly smoother now even though, I thought it shifted fine before hand.

    All these parts were through https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com

    Order Content

    82125-60650 Wire Transmission $45.77

    90080-30075 Drain Plug O-Ring. $2.32

    35178-30010 Trans pan O-ring. $2.21. Need 2 of these

    35168-60010 Pan Gasket. $16.41

    I used about 12 qts of WS ATF as well.

    The entire engine/transmission harness I had to replace on my friends fj was about $700.00
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
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