Transmission questions, issue after fluid change

It'll vary, you'll have to call around and some may say they only do flush, exchange, etc.

If you're a Costco member there's a 15% discount on parts/service program they may participate in. (Took advantage of that for a transmission fluid change in a Honda once at a Honda dealer - my local Toyota participates as well.)

 

I am a Costco member. Thanks thats a good tip!

 

LOL.. thanks dude. Appreciate ya lol.

 

It’s a little wonky though on the website figuring out who participates.

At least as of earlier this year they have you put in ZIP and make and return a couple options only, I wish it just had a map because shopping around I ended up shotgunning different ZIP’s at it. (then you get a coupon emailed)

 

I varies wildly. I have seen $250-$800.

 

Yeah my local dealer wanted 350 so I did it myself.

One of the main reasons I wanted a scan gauge to show trans temp lol

 

Ok, I’ll put myself out there. Was I supposed to check level while engine was idling? My interpretation of the videos was that you got it to temp, then shut off. Then drop the plug and let it bleed to dribble. That is what I did. Now I’m not sure if that was right. Based on what you are saying, when the engine is running, there is less fluid in the pan. If a person checks while the engine is off, would too much drain out? Each time I checked it, the engine was off. But at temp.

 

Has to be running.

 

Fluid level adjustment is performed with vehicle level, engine at idle, transmission fluid temp in the specified range.

if you checked it with the engine off, your fluid level will be low by a quart or so.

 

The only step you did wrong was keeping the truck idling when you pulled the plug after you added fluid.


Cold drain
Fill up +1/2 quarts
Plug in scan gauge or have your gun with you
Let it idle and shift through the gears like you did
Once pan is around 104 (I would add 5 degrees with the gun) so call it 109, while idling, open check plug
Once it dribbles, reinstall.
You’ve set the level correctly


You did everything correct, just don’t turn the truck off. Yes and the transmission fill you need a shallow 24mm socket. Be careful of you hands, yes lol. Once you do it, you’ll have more confidence, and look back and say that wasn’t bad at all.

 

I redid it again. This time with truck running. No fluid came out. I put in 2 more quarts. A little over a quart came out.

this would mean that it was almost 3 quarts too low from the Midas guy. Which is crazy in my book.

but I now know it is good. Let’s see how it goes. Will report back.

thanks for all the help.

 

yep never take it to a quick lube place. Either take it to a Toyota dealership (pray), local mechanic that takes pride in their work or do it yourself.

 

Good. That is exactly the result you should see when doing it properly. I bet a big weight has been lifted off your shoulders, at least some. I bet you’re a pro now at doing the atf spill and fill, the procedure really isn’t as bad after you do it right? Would you consider it in the realm of oil change difficulty? Maybe a little bit higher, but not much.

 

did you Scangauge it or temp gun?

 

What is the OEM transmission oil?

 

WS........Toyota

 

Toyota Type WS (JWS 3324)
Toyota Lexus Sion ATF WS Transmission Fluid 00289-ATFWS
https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/world-standard-automatic-transmission-fl-00289atfws

Toyota Genuine Parts - Auto Fluid Ws 08886-02305 (4L)

$23 Toyota Genuine Parts - Auto Fluid Ws (08886-02305)

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Parts-Fluid-08886-02305/dp/B01CRQ3PJ2/ (caution buying autoparts from scamazon .. lots of known fakes; even when the seller is a dealer because Amazon co-mingles stock)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154323088486 (if buying directly from a dealer probably ok because the dealer ships direct)

Toyota Genuine Parts - Auto Fluid WS 08886–81015 (20L)

there also a Lexus part number
00289ATFWSLX
https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus__/WORLD-STANDARD-AUTOM/78762950/00289ATFWSLX.html

and some discussion if the generic Aisin ATF0WS is a direct replacement since Aisin makes the transmissions for Toyota.
https://newparts.com/aisin-atf-0ws-automatic-transmission-fluid

most people simply go with the OEM fluid on this service instead saving a few nickles using something different. Though there are options.

Mobile
https://www.mobil.ca/en-ca/lubrican...al-vehicle-lubricants/products/mobil-atf-3324

Valvoline
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf/

WestWay lubicants
https://www.westwayoils.co.uk/products/atf-jws-3324-automatic-transmission-fluid

Liquid Moly
https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/top-tec-atf-1800-p000243.html#20032

Ravenol
https://www.ravenolamerica.com/transmission-fluid/atf-fluid-ravenol-t-ws-lifetime-fluid/

Redline
https://www.redlineoil.com/d6-atf

 

And these two:

Irving
https://www.irvingoil.com/sites/default/files/2025-05/TRANSflo LV_ ENG.pdf

MotoMaster
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...tf-946-ml-0281579p.html?rq=transmission+fluid

 

And don’t forget Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV!

 

I bought 8 liters of the WS from Amazon , it was sold and shipped by Toyota of North Miami (IIRC). After talking to my local dealership who said it was discontinued he believed they must have bought a boat load and were selling it thru Amazon. Haven’t heard of any complaints on it. Mine is still setting in my garage.

 

I don't think the Irving Transflo LV meets Toyota WS specs as it is a JWS 3309 spec and not a JWS 3324 spec fluid.

And the MotoMaster is also a JWS 3309 spec fluid and it seems it is not a Toyota WS spec
"Suitable for: Aisin JWS 3309, Toyota Type IV in Toyota, Lexus, Mini, Saab, Volvo, Chrysler AS68RC, GM Type IV, GM DEXRON-III(H) and earlier GM DEXRON specifications, Ford MERCON V and MERCON, Hyundai/Kia/Mitsubishi SP-III and earlier, Nissan Matic – D, J, K"

some more conversation.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...a-ws-atf-automaitc-transmission-fluid.373083/

Though we have drifted from what@bhamnerky started this thread for.

 

I'm betting that you will not have any transmission problems for another 200k. Running low and having intermittent shifting problems is a probably the culprit. You should be fine.
Unless the mechanic is a close personal friend I do not trust ANY of them. Especially the dealership.

 

It’s been over month since I added the fluid. She has run perfectly all that time. I’m now 100% convinced that Midas got the fluid level wrong. And Toyota just lied about checking it. I wrote to Midas corp to tell the story. I suggested that I should get some refund. The local manager called me. She simply said “we followed the directions, and I will send the directions. “. I read the direction (they were published by Midas). It omitted the temp check. Not really sure how their wrong directions is my problem, but I guess it is. She just never contacted me afterwards. I’m guessing that paying back the $300 is less the problem that admitting you did something wrong, and maybe end up liable for a rebuild. Lessons learned. Hopefully this thread helps others in the future. Thanks for all the advice.

 

Thanks for the follow-up. It's nice when something works out and it's simple. My concern was the village-bicycle-like treatment of that bulk drum of transmission fluid rather than the fluid quality itself. Drain and fill it yourself next time with unopened, clean fluid that you choose.

 

Willing to bet Midas didn't update their SOP either.

 

So did they send any refund?

 

If the local manager won’t take responsibility for the instructions she got from higher up, then maybe going after the corporate side is the way. After all, you have their procedures, which omit a step.

 

Unleash the fury!!!

 

It just blows my mind how those instructions can get messed up. OP, and anyone else who has done it, will tell you it’s a very easy learning how to do it.. and once you do it once you built that confidence next time to do it again. And it feels better knowing you, yourself have a little
Better understanding than the local shop up the road, sometimes.

feel good that you fixed the error and hoping to get your $ back. Drain and fill every 30-45k and it will last 300k+

 

It’s easy for sure, but you have to know the little details and the right order, and it’s easy to get confused where you were in the steps once you’re crawling around under there. I kinda had to rehearse the steps but to myself and triple check what I did.

I found it very helpful to have a blutooth connected obd dongle and a scanner app on my phone so I can watch for the temps and check level without messing with the jumper pin method in the obd port.