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Tips on changing out the Engine Cooling fan clutch

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by Benny123, Aug 3, 2019.

  1. Aug 3, 2019 at 5:11 AM
    #1
    Benny123

    Benny123 [OP] Toyota enthusiast

    Joined:
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    Southeast Charlotte, NC
    Vehicle:
    2016 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium
    LEDs all around, otherwise bone stock.
    Im by no means an expert, but Ive changed mine out twice now (read on).
    When I changed out my water pump, thermostat, alt and radiator, I felt it would be appropriate to change out the clutch fan as well. I had read somewhere that a bad clutch fan can weaken a new water pump and allow it to leak earlier. Not to mention that it could allow the vehicle to overheat. My old one had a rusted coil, I did clean it up, but I didnt have alot of faith in it. Clutch is cheap, replacing an engine is not.

    You can test your with the newspaper trick, see below.

    Heres a great video, although on a 3rd gen. Fan is not quite this easy to get out in a 4th gen.



    This is also helpful, see post #8. Remember that we have a 4th gen, this is a 3rd gen thread, so ignore that part 3. You want to order a

    Aisin FCT-072 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch

    So I got a generic one from Amazon. It worked well, drove to FL and back, put 5000 miles on it. Really didnt have any issues, but it was loud. Sound a big like an aircraft in first gear.

    So I ordered an OEM Aisin and it arrived from Amazon. Here is what it should look like if it is OEM. Pics of old OEM fan first. 130000 miles.
    AFTER I cleaned up the rust, yeah, still ugly.

    IMG_20190801_165339.jpg

    New fan after blade installed. 65 INCH lbs.

    IMG_20190801_165350.jpg

    IMG_20190801_165318.jpg


    I should note that the OEM fan weighed 4 more ounces than the knockoff. I suspect there is an issue there, and maybe something that caused it to be out of balance. Weigh your fan.

    I really didnt want to take the whole fan cover off again. Its kindof a bitch and you often have to remove a several clamps & hoses. Its a very tight fit, and you have to get it on this tiny ledge. So I wanted to see if I could change it without doing so. I took some measurements and found you can change the fan without removing the fan cover.

    You will have to remove the top engine cover, and drain enough coolant out from below to empty the top radiator hose. About 2/3 gallon. Give it a few squeezes to move fluid.

    After this, simply remove the top hose. Use vice grips to grab the clamps and slide them. Do not attempt this without the vice grips, extremely frustrating.

    Here is a pic with the hose removed after slight drain. Notice overflow is empty as well.
    IMG_20190801_165418.jpg

    Then remove the fan nuts with 12mm wrench. They are snug, but not bad to remove.

    Here is the new fan going in.

    IMG_20190801_165437.jpg
    IMG_20190801_165501.jpg

    IMG_20190801_165516.jpg


    Once back on the studs, torque to 15ft lbs, put the upper hose back on and refill coolant. Verify belt on and water pump pulley is fully seated (it will come forward about 3mm when you take the fan off.)

    Enjoy the quiet OEM fan.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
  2. Feb 10, 2020 at 2:03 PM
    #2
    bam22506

    bam22506 New Member

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    Thanks for the pictures and info here. My only question is (and please forgive me for this likely stupid question) how did you drain the coolant from the hose before you removed it?
    Trying to do this fix for my SO, but only just realized I would also have to remove the fan cover unless I followed your direction (thought the video you linked was for a 4th gen, not a 3rd)
     
  3. Sep 3, 2021 at 5:56 AM
    #3
    quaydvt

    quaydvt New Member

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    Thanks for the info on the 3rd vs 4th gen. I also saw that youtube and when I looked under my hood I didn’t think it looked that straightforward. And the manual talked about removing the top shroud and hoses and the reservoir.

    Unfortunately I am on the road in a campground, so if I have to drain coolant at all I think I’m going to have to get a shop to do the install. Shame since I have the wrenches and am picking up the clutch tomorrow. I thought it seemed too simple to be true!
     
  4. Sep 3, 2021 at 7:30 AM
    #4
    iamincrediboy

    iamincrediboy New Member

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    Since this thread was revived with a question...

    Long as you have a bucket or gallon jug or something to catch your coolant, look underneath your bumper on the drivers side for the lowest part of your radiator. On the corner will be a small plastic quarter turn valve. Open that and you can drain a large portion of your coolant to then be able to remove those upper hoses with little to no spillage. Then its business as usual :cheers:
     
  5. Sep 3, 2021 at 7:38 AM
    #5
    quaydvt

    quaydvt New Member

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    Oh I realize that. But campgrounds usually aren’t thrilled about auto repairs on the grounds at the best of times. Draining coolant wouldn’t be high on their list.
    If I can convince the parts shop to let me do it in their lot, then we’re OK. I have the wrenches, vice grips, shop towels and I’m sure I can find a low buckety container somewhere in the trailer. If I can find an acceptable locale to work in I’ll give it a go. Here’s hoping!!
     

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