Starter Draining Battery?

2001 4runner drains the battery after attempting to start it 3-4 times (it's having issues getting fuel that I am trying to troubleshoot). Recently had an aftermarket alarm/remote start system removed. Just replaced the battery (again) and same problem, cranks up a couple times and then after the 3rd or 4th time turning the key the accessories won't even power on.

Also, not exactly sure about why it won't start. It would jump fine, but then it ran out of gas. Put almost 1/2 a tank of gas in it and the fuel pump was replaced just prior to running out of gas.

 

A good battery should crank a starter for a VERY VERY long time.

You should use a clamp ammeter and see what the current draw is on the starter cable from the batter with the key off, key on and while trying to start.

You should only see a power draw when trying to start.

I'm guessing you have a nasty parasitic drain or even a short that is seriously pulling down the battery's voltage.

Check your battery voltage while it's disconnected and also while it's re-connected with the car off. You shouldn't see the battery voltage drop (maybe the tiniest bit). If you do see a big drop, start pulling relays and fuses until it stops and probably recovers.

 

If your battery is dying after 3 - 4 cranks its shot.

I'd get a new battery or at least get one of those chargers that you can nuke the batteries with for now so you can keep trying.

 

Well, he said he "replaced the battery (again)".

So I assume he's on a new one.

 

Well I obviously skipped that part.

But if accessories don't turn on check grounds. Probably might be why no fuel either.

 

It is the second new battery I've tried. Accessories and everything works fine until a crank 3-4 times. Then nothing. And I do hear the fuel pump priming when turning on.

Just grabbed a multimeter. I will try and see if I can find a draw. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Do you have an after market fuel pump or oem?

 

This new battery is dead after 3 - 4 cranks? Right after replacing it?

If it dies right away there is no way a stray current draw is killing it that fast.

 

Not sure. I've owned the 4runner for under two years and bought as a project and run around vehicle when I don't have my kids with me.

Unfortunately, I forgot that my house projects take priority over my vehicle projects and that I'm not mechanically inclined.

 

Correct. Replaced the battery that came with it and it'd drain when starting even when fully charged. Returned that one to Costco thinking it was a battery problem and same problem.

 

Can you manually turn the crankshaft with the spark plugs out?

 

I'll check on that when I have time.

What would that indicate if not?

 

Some sort of binding perhaps. Just trying to think of things that would overwork the battery. Timing belt ok?

 

Not sure if I'm doing this right or...I have a record breaking drain.

Negative battery cable is disconnected.
Klein mm300 set up correctly per the research I did.

One lead from the tool is on the negative battery post other on the negative cable.

Meter showing 12.7

 

Edit: <bad info on my part>

 

No, from what his post reads, he has completed the circuit and is reading battery voltage.

 

My bad, you are correct.

 

No worries, I had to reread his post several times and look at the setting on his meter. That's when it made sense what I was seeing.

 

To correctly check for parasitic draw, you need to check for an amperage draw, not voltage.

Newer vehicles can have around .007 amp draw (+ or - depending on make).
.1 amp will kill it over a few days.
1-2 amps can kill it overnight.

You can YouTube videos on “parasitic drain”

They can probably explain it better.

 

Think of it this way…

If a glove box light is left on, the meter in your set up will read 12.6 volts, because that’s what the bulb is using.

If a power window motor is being used, it would also read the same 12.6 volts.

However, if the meter was on the AMPS scale, it would read the “load” of the draw.

Does that make more sense?

Also, most meters have a fuse (10 amp-ish) to protect itself. If the draw is too big, the fuse will blow and your meter will indicate 0 draw. This will also cause confusion.

 

You just need to turn the dial on the meter to amps. It looks like the meter has options of 10A, 200mA, and 20mA. Start at 10A and see what you get. Also need to move the red lead to the 10A spot on the left. Others here are helping so I’ll bug out.

 

Think I'm set up right(?). Now, I'm getting a reading of 0 (one lead to battery -terminal, one to negative cable).

 

Yes, you are set up properly. Turn the AMP setting down now to 200M and see what it reads. Then down to 20M. Your truck will pretty much always have a draw because certain systems always require a small amount of power.

Oh, and when you turn the dial selector down to 200M, move the red lead back to the right hand side.

 

If there is more than a 10 amp draw, the fuse may be blown in the meter, which would make it read 0 as well.

 

Sounds like you should also perform a voltage check to see if your starter cable is corroded causing a voltage drop at the starter motor power terminal, which would also make it act like your battery is dead. You can also perform this same type check on the negative cables going from the battery to where it connects to the various ground points on the engine and chassis.