Spark plug change.. secondary Air Injection Tube stud broke

So while in the process of changing the spark plugs, on the drivers side one of the two 10mm nuts that holds the secondary injection tube snapped. The other one luckily the stud broke loose and I was able to undo the entire stud with nut, break the two loose on my table and then install it back. However, now I have one of them that’s snapped, it’s sticking up about 1/4” from the mount however working space is limited.

Been soaking it with pb blaster and tried to get vice grips on it to basically get it to undo out, without luck.

No sure what to do, I can probably cut it flush, but getting a drill in there to drill out the rest will be impossible due to the hoses and angle..

Any ideas? Spark plug change is done.. basically this is what’s holding me up now.

 

Keep putting PB or Kroil on it.
Maybe a small propane hand torch, try heating around the broken stud.....
Maybe some light hits on the end of the stud to shock the metal. I did say small!
All the time alternating with PB or Kroil even when it's hot.

This may take a while to get it to break free.
You may need Vise Grips.... not channel locks

If you have to cut it, don't cut is flush just yet....
Leave enough stud, if possible, to cut a slot on the stud head so you can put a screwdriver into the slot to help turn it, while still employing the method of PB or Kroil and heat.

If that method fails, the resort to devcon 5
Do what you have to do and take your best shot.

Please take everyone's advice, this could go good or not so...

 

Wait, is that a replaceable tube?

 

I meant vice grips- not channel locks. Corrected original post.

I have a very small torch I tried heating that area as well, not much luck. It’s quite tight so that’s another concern to heat there.

The tube itself is fine, it’s on my desk. It’s the left stud that’s sticking out that needs to be removed.

 

Ok, So that flange piece with the stud is a permanent fixture on the exh mani?

 

You got it.

 

Heat and PB or Kroil....and patience
You may need to possible move a hose to gain access....

 

Well I sprayed it again - called it quits for the night. I’ll try again tomorrow.

If I cut it flush - then my only option is drilling not sure if I should just do that or try to penetrate and then break the stud lose to undo it.

 

Try to break it loose.

Last and final option is cutting.

 

That sucks! I assume that that the broken stud is in the exhaust manifold?

 

A flange off the exhaust manifold. Sits right below the secondary pump, the left circled 10mm nut.

 

As permanent/temporary as the exhaust manifold, as 4th gen V8 owners will arrest...

 

Or stop right there and take it to a shop that has experience removing exhaust manifolds on domestic V8 full-size trucks. They can easily weld a nut to the stump and unthread the stud.

 

I assume this will throw a CEL if it isn’t sealed properly, correct?

 

Yes and you'll poison the atmosphere you madman!!!

 

i agree with others, you gave it your best, let a shop take it out. It will be well worth whatever they plan on charging you

 

Not giving up just yet. Will take the day to apply heat and PB. Pulling the front left tire I can see the thing from the wheel well - the reason this one snapped it’s directly exposed to road elements.. no coverage of it whatsoever.

 

Isn't it flange stud? If so it might have a head behind the flange which would call for right tread to remove from the back... I've no idea but just a thought.

 

Do you have a welder? If so you could attempt to tack weld a nut to that cat and cross fingers/hope that the heat soak could loosen that joker up?

 

Good advice. To add, after slotting it try using an impact screwdriver to get it out. It uses the impact of a hammer with the rotation of a screwdriver to prevent the bit from slipping.

Something similar to this:

$24 CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver, 3/8" Set (CMMT14104)

CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver, 3/8-Inch Set (CMMT14104) - Amazon.com

 

Those are torques head studs, they screw in from the side you can see.

 

Light it on fire.

Walk away.

Collect insurance.

 

No flange, just a stud. I pulled the right side one you can see and put it back in.

 

It will be akin to a small leak in the exhaust manifold. It may be some time before manifesting as a detectable air/fuel ratio error. You should be able to drive it to a shop with just one nut tightened. You can probably also jury-rig some mechanics wire to tie the flanges together.



After you get the stud removed, if your state doesn't have a visual emission inspection, just delete the whole Achilles' heel of a secondary air injection system. It will only cause more problems later on. https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-2-plug-play/

 

Can you just drill it out and retap it?

 

From post #1:

"I can probably cut it flush, but getting a drill in there to drill out the rest will be impossible due to the hoses and angle.."

 

Just stop before you are aggravating thing! Your best option was already suggested get it to someone who knows how to do it properly, IE will weld a nut on the stump, using that method will heat up the stud and help to remove it! Short of this, get an induction heater and heat it till it is red glows and try to unscrew the stud.

 

I missed that

 

lol you’re like me. I told you above to let a shop fix it but I should learn to listen to my own advice. You can’t break something already broke.