Silver Fox 2008 V6 4x4 Build & Tinker thread

Purchased February 2020

I’ve literally got hundreds of hours of work into this thing and plan to have hundreds more. A lot of small and more tinkering things that everyone can do. I’ve done everything myself on this and I am far from a mechanic. It’s been a love hate relationship. It’s from Pennsylvania and New Jersey so the bolts love breaking everytime I pull a new one out, or the weld nuts like to break off inside the frame and ruins my day because I try so hard to be careful, stop when there is any resistance, and soak with PB blaster.


Quick pics

Here she is when I brought her home in 2020 with about 135,000mi
Look how low these 4th Gens came from the factory. No wonder they come with factory skids lol



Here she is now, right at 179,000 mi

• Bilstein 6112’s w/650lb spring set at Notch #4 driver #3 Passenger
• 34x10.5x17 Toyo Open Country ATIII Tires
• Method 709HD 17x8.5 0 offset
• JBA UCA’s

I put Led strips underneath my RCI Sliders and have them wired into my ECU that controls the dome light function and mirrors them that work great for approach lights or when I’m working underneath at night (which is a lot more than I should be)


I’ve got a bunch of 4Runner projects backed up that I don’t have the time to get to but trying to prioritize as I can. I just installed a new front end suspension including Bilstein 6112’s W/Bilstein 650 lb springs, new OEM LCA’s, JBA Greasable high fixed Caster UCA’s. The 650 lb springs to support my armor, winch, and second battery setup. I have more armor I need to get on, but have to drill out 8 bolts from the under carriage that I really don’t feel like doing.

While working on both side of removing and replacing the JBA UCA’s I broke out every last bit of the super brittle engine splash guards. I did order some Rad Rubber replacement splash guards for it as I’ve heard great things about em. Our factory ones SUCK! Same with that horribly brittle hood liner. I mean it holds up ok if you don’t touch it or look at it haha, but damn! Trying to pull out 1 plastic clip, and it pushed right through.


Suspension

Front

• Bilstein 6112’s w/ Bilstein 650lb springs Set at #5 Driver and #4 passenger clip locations w/new KYB top hats
• JBA Greasable high Caster UCA’s
• New OEM LCA’s
• Rev Tek Differential drop kit and ToyTec front sway bar relocate kit
• Red energy sway bar bushings
• Durobump extended bump stops.

Rear

• Fox Racing 2.0 w/Resivoirs
• ToyTec Supeflex 2.0 springs
• 2nd Gen rear sway bar links with red Energy Poly bushings
• Red energy Poly rear sway bar bushings
• Air lift air bags w/ pneumatic switch for dual or single
• Durobump extended bump stops.

Wheels & Tires

• Level 8 MK6 in Gunmetal Grey 17”X8” 0mm offset W/TRD caps.
• Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 275/70/17
• TRD silver valve stem caps

Engine and performance

• Cam gear swap w/ a 3* Retard Replaced valve cover gaskets and seals while at it
• Pedal Commander (PC38)
• HCF Delete

Lighting

Interior

• Full Led light swap
• Footwell Led lighting addition
• Under seat Led light addition
• Window UV Sun Tex Carbon tint; 55% windshield, 30% front, 18% rears and back

Exterior

• Single row LED light bar in Victory rack cut out
• LED headlight swap; highs and lows With Sealight X2 H11 & 9005
• LED Parking lights
• Reverse lights LED extra bright upgrade
• LED strips for steps/courtesy lighting; Luyed 2,200 lumens
• Custom orange backlit push switches from CH4X4 for LED lights
• 20” LED light bar in Victory front steel bumper
• Ditch lights; 3”x3” LED Pods from Amazon (El Cheapo) CBI mounts
• 4 small LED pods on rear of tow hitch for rear lights

Future lighting additions for components that I already own

• Rock lights, I have 12qty. but have been putting off due to the time for wiring I have to make.
• 4- roof rack side lights for work lights
• Relay box with 6 relays and 12 fuses
• Power button (Armed button) to where switches can’t be accidentally turned on without power button pushed first because the dogs like to step on the rear lights button lol

Electronics

• Pioneer AVH-2550NEX DVD head unit
• Pioneer back up camera ND-bc8 for both the rear and front
• XM antenna
• Kicker HS10 10” Powered subwoofer installed under passenger seat

Interior

• Clazzio leather seat covers
• Weathertech floor Mats in front, rear, and cargo area

Armor

• RCI Rock Sliders w/LED strips under ea. side. All tied into my ECU to operate with my interior lights and remote
• Victory 4x4 Blitz flush Bumper w/tube rail
• RCI Aluminum Skids; Front, Transmission, Transfer case, Gas tank, & A-Arms skids

Mods and additions

• Second battery install AGM Group 34R
• Victory Blitz flush front bumper with tube and winch
• Winch- Smittybuilt 12K X2o with Synthetic cable
• Victory full length roof rack w/40“ light bar
• Auto dimming Gentex 453 mirror with Homelink and Compass
• MAP light mod
• 12V+ constant auxiliary power mod
• Blue tooth and phone buttons on RH side of steering wheel
• Window rain deflectors by Weathertech (front 2 have warped and broke)
• Satoshi Front Grille Mod W/“Toyota” lights and red/blk TRD emblem
• Rear color matched spoiler installed
• Rear recovery point from InV4DrZm Painted red
• Victory 4x4 full length roof rack, replaced factory

Future additions and wish list

• Victory Blitz flush front bumper with tube and winch (already own)
• Heavier duty spring rate to support Victory bumper & Winch, Bilstein 6112 650lb springs (already own, need to install)
• Adjustable SPC UCA’s, new design (already own but have to install)
• New OEM LCA’s (already own but have to install)
• Full sized matching tire and wheel spare
• Extended bump stops for the front and rear
• 5 Channel amp and under seat Subwoofer
• RCI sliders w/top plate (already own, need to install after upgraded front springs)
• Brakes (already own the brake swap, just need to do it)
• Front-5th Gen Centric rotors, 5th Gen NAPA Calipers, Akebono Ceramic performance pads.
• Rear-4th Gen Centric rotors, 5th Gen NAPA Calipers, Akebono Ceramic performance pads.

Repairs, fixes, replacements

• New OEM LCA’s Right side Part#48068-60010 | Left side Part#48069-60010 | Right side
• Shift Lock Override cover Part#33554-35080
• Hood latch rod hook retaining clip Part#69759-20110
• Rear exterior window OEM Toyota Door Glass Weatherstrip Part#
  $59 68290-35031 Door Glass Weatherstrip Assembly
  68290-35031
• Rear OEM whole windshield wiper and blade replacement Part#85242-35021
• New OEM SR5 06-09 headlights OEM Part#’s 81170-35421 & 81130-35441
• Rear window up/down button bulb OEM Part#90010-11088
• Hvac cooler control console bulb OEM Part#90010-09017
• Denso Iridium long life spark plugs SK20HR11
• Denso Copper spark plugs
• Gauge cluster lens OEM part#83852-35E50
• Driver side seat cushion foam OEM part#71511-35100

Old suspension and changes that have been removed

• Tyger Bull Bar on front with 18” light bar and 2- 4” LED pods
• Lund HX Terrain tube steps w/LED strips on ea. Step and one to shine underneath for a puddle light. All tied into my ECU to operate with my interior lights and remote
• Bilstien 5100 set at 0 with Eibach 600# springs-Front
• 1/2” ToyTec spacer on driver and 1/4” on passenger-Front
• Bilstein 5100’s-Rear

 

February 2020


My lift except I bought individual components and had to build the front coil overs with new KYB Top Hats.




Front
-Bilstein 5100’s set at 0 with Eibach springs, 1/2” ToyTec spacer on driver and 1/4” on passenger, new KYB top hats. ToyTec Differential drop kit. ToyTec sway bar relocate kit, and red energy sway bar bushings.

Rear
-Bilstein 5100’s set at 0 With ToyTec Supeflex springs. 2nd Gen. rear sway bar links with red Energy Poly bushings. Red energy Poly rear sway bar bushings.

I didn’t get any before measurements to determine just how much lift I gained, it seemed pretty substantial though. I took very few pics though the lift process unfortunately, nor document anything.

Before lift


After lift with stock wheels and 265/65/17


You can see the differential drop kit




We didn’t remove either the UCA nor the LCA, just the sway bar links and the ball joint tapered bolt nut for the UCA. Made it hard to compress getting it bolted back together so had to get a little creative lol. Had a floor jack underneath and got to the point where it just started lifting the whole vehicle so we had to “influence” it a bit.


A lot of rusted bolts and issues. Blew through a lot of PB Blaster! The front passenger rear sway bar weld nut inside the frame wound up breaking loose about halfway unthreaded. Wound up having to drill the frame out, get a wrench on it and replace the nut. I was going to have the nut welded and close the frame, but for now just painted it and left it open.


Here is the weld nut which was broken loose, horrible design lol


You can see a shot of the sway bar relocation kit and the red energy sway bar bushings.


Rear Moog (Japanese made) sway bar end link for a 2nd gen. They are 1” longer than the 4th gen links and virtually took all the preload out. Also put on red Energy Poly bushings and red energy rear sway bar poly bushings


Wheels & Tires
-Level 8 MK6 in Gunmetal Grey 17”X8” 0mm offset W/TRD Silver caps.
-Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 275/70/17
-TRD silver valve stem caps

Tires seem great so far, high mileage warranty rating (I think like 55,00mi) and very quiet on the road.

 

CBI Ditch light brackets. Very nice and Sturdy. Kind of a pain to install, but not terrible.

March 2020



Take out the bolts from the top of the fender and hood hinge.


I found it easiest (after the second fender of course lol) to lift the fender flange part pretty high and set it on the part under it. It will stay lifted and the fender out of the way. Bolt the ditch light bracket down on top of the hinge.


I had to trim the plastic trim piece a little around the bracket.


I just used inexpensive 3” Light Pods from Amazon. They look pretty good and fairly bright. I have them facing pretty far out to the side. It gives me almost 180* of light.




Lund Terrain HX tube side steps-I really wanted sliders but by the time you add the powder coat cost to them, shipping, and the cost of someone to weld them up was way out of my budget for now. I’m happy with the way they turned out visually, especially with the led courtesy lights. They look sharp and get a lot of compliments.

I have one 12” strip on each step and one mounted to the tube underneath between the 2 steps.

I tied them into my interior lights so they go on/off with the doors. They work great for approach and puddle lights as well. When you unlock they turn on so there are no surprises walking up. When you open the door there are no surprises as to what you may step on or in at night. They are super bright! I used an interrupter switch to be able to turn them off as needed.

12” led strips

PryEU Daylight White 6000K LED Strip Lights 12V for Interior Car Automotive Boats Motorcycle Lighting 12'' 30CM 2835 SMD UL Listed Pack of 4

Amazon.com: PryEU Daylight White 6000K LED Strip Lights 12V Waterproof for Auto Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Interior Lighting 12'' 30CM 2835 SMD UL Listed Pack of 4: Home Improvement



Click on picture below to view the GIF video for lighting

 

Backup and front camera install

May 2020

Installed my back up camera. That little tiny camera sure is a lot of work lol. The first pic. Is under the floor trim and shows the red wire with yellow stripe that I used to tie into for my reverse trigger on the driver side. Not to be confused with the yellow wire with red stripe (it got me), have to look closely.



Ran the camera wire in through the grommet.



Didn’t take any good pics apparently of the inside but you have to be careful the wire does NOT get in the way of the window or will cut it. I ran mine tight on top of other wires existing.


Used a coat hanger to fish through the wire loom above the hatch.


Hooked the power wire on the Camera to an ignition +

Rear camera


Installed my front camera this evening on my bull bar. I am able to view at any time and can toggle back and forth between the rear and front camera. Plus it goes in to the rear view mode when in reverse with parking grid if chosen.




It will be nice to finally see in real time what’s on the other side of that hill as it’s crested while off-road. Only problem is with the Pioneer the image is reversed. There is no way to flip the image mirrored the opposite direction. For the front cam whatever it shows on the left is actually on the right.

 

Hidden XM antenna install

May 2020

Took off top Rack front corner cover


Ran Antenna wire under passenger windshield trim and through firewall.



Mounted receiver inside just above cup holder and behind taco holder


Cut a piece of metal to fit inside corner piece


Drilled it out and put bolt through it. Stuck magnetised antenna to it


Snapped cap back on and only part that’s visible if you look is a small piece of antenna wire. Thought about drilling a hole through the base and running up through the bottom but the plug is pretty big. The antenna receives signal through the plastic cover no problem. Comes in clear and doesn’t lose signal, zero issues.

 

Pioneer Head unit install AVH-2550NEX

May 2021

Got my Pioneer AVH-2550NEX installed. Pretty nice unit overall and does everything I need it to I believe. Upgraded from my Kenwood DDX-471HD primarily only because I wanted apple CarPlay. Got the lights, scene, and background orange to match pretty close too.


Love the Apple car play


The free wiring patch cables and kit from Crutchfield were super simple and color coded. It definitely sits deeper into the opening so it was a challenge to get all the wiring out of the way behind there. Took a few try’s in and out but got it.

It works well with new to me right hand side steering wheel Bluetooth buttons (while phone’s unplugged). Another super easy install.


Used my Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel controller that I already had and steering wheel controls work perfect.

 

Footwell Lighting Install

May 2020

I used 12” LED strips that I bought from Amazon. Come in packs of 4 and pretty reasonably priced. They can be cut to length as well. I put them under dash on both side as well as under both seats.

PryEU Daylight White 6000K LED Strip Lights 12V for Interior Car Automotive Boats Motorcycle Lighting 12'' 30CM 2835 SMD UL Listed Pack of 4

Amazon.com: PryEU Daylight White 6000K LED Strip Lights 12V for Interior Car Automotive Boats Motorcycle Lighting 12'' 30CM 2835 SMD UL Listed Pack of 4: Home Improvement

I tied them into my ECU and operate the same as the dome lights when door opens/closes, alarm on/off. I used interrupter switches to be able to turn them off as needed. Make such a huge difference, I really like a lot of light.



Mounted under each front seat


Added some disconnects to use as needed.


Floor well and under seat Lighting

 

Rear Spoiler Install

June 2020

Rear color matched spoiler from the spoiler company on EBay. Very nice with LED brake lights. I went with the Non-Hump backed version primarily because I didn’t want to spend that much and saw a video where a guy with the humped style had to swap for a NON humped due to it hitting his roof rack.

PRE-PAINTED REAR SPOILER FOR 2003-2009 TOYOTA 4RUNNER W/3RD LED BRAKE LIGHT!! | eBay

I took a chance on this spoiler, but basing on their name and warranty they offer it seemed like a standup outfit..... I hope lol. They also sell the Hump back version for around $260ish shipped. It came in pretty quick, packaged very well, and paint looks flawless. Seems to match my 12 year old paint perfectly. I like the look of the Hump backed version better but most of everything I’ve bought have been frugal purchases and this was $168 at the time. There are cheaper ones on there and may all be good quality but I just had to go with my gut and opted to pay more due to their 3 year warranty.








Here are the instructions it came with which are ok, there are videos on YouTube that give you an idea how to use the templates. The templates for this are on the bottom of the page and are perforated to tear off easily.


When I first taped on the template I messed up. I didn’t realize it until after it was taped on the vehicle. I followed the inside curve pretty tight when taping on. It is was too extreme of a curve for it and had to do it a 2nd time. The pictures taped inside spoiler are from the first tape job where the curves were way too extreme.

The 2nd time I taped them on pretty flat and fairly straight across and was pretty dang close to the proper curve. A neighbor and I held it up, measured it, and eyeballed the rest. One thing he brought up was about the potential of it hitting the roof when it was opened. So we held it on and opened the hatch to make sure we were clear.

We used a sharpie and traced around the outside of the spoiler onto the vehicle. Then taped the templates on the spoiler (a 2nd time lol) and laid on the traced sharpie lines. From there we proceeded to tape on the templates and gently remove the spoiler.



Spoiler removed and the templates left on



From there we proceeded to drill holes. I was pretty nervous for the first couple holes drilled, after that it wasn’t that big of a deal. The holes amazingly enough lined up perfectly centered behind the existing plugged holes for the top spoiler holes. On the passenger side there are 3 total layers of metal to have to drill through. I started on the outside with a 1/8” bit then progressed. For the inside and center holes I had to drill with a 5/8” bit to finish. It had to be that big to get the screw head through both layers.




We used a bunch of silicone on the head of the screw and inside to seal from water.


Fished the wires through on the drivers side and pulled out the wire loom hole area. I used T-tap connectors to tie into the existing brake light wiring and not to harm it. Very limited room and this worked perfect for me. Both the original 3rd brake light on the 4Runner work as well as the brake light on the spoiler.

The bottom screw hole is behind the wire loom and the top is behind the plastic grommet



I found some 5/8” rubber hole covers at O’Reily Auto to plug the passenger side hole I drilled on the inside of the hatch. The other 3 holes already had covers so that was super convenient. I also ordered a set of rubber hole covers and grommets of different sizes before I found them in stock.


And...... drumroll please.....
The final product! I am very happy with how it turned out. Very cost effective and looks great. I think these 4th Gen 4Runners just look funny without them, I always knew it but it didn’t really come together until it was on. I did gain an extra 9mph on the top end and 2.37mpg avg....... J/K lol

 

Satoshi Grille build Mod

July 2020

Wow, this was a LOT of work. Hours alone just sanding. Of course as usual I do it the hard way lol. I wasn’t sure just what to do for the body filler as it’s nothing I’ve ever done before. I’ve never messed with fiberglass and my neighbor had told be that Bondo would probably crack filling these big of openings. I used what I had on hand and what I thought would be strong.

I used JB weld regular dry time as I had the big tubes that I’ve used to bed actions and worked well for that. It proved to be runny as was a huge PITA. It took forever to set and wanted to continue to run. I let it dry for an hour and a half to get tacky first but just made it messy and stringy getting on parts of the grille I didn’t want it to. I used JB Weld Kwik for the last 2 final top coats and dried fast. The Kwik dry may have worked well but not for sure since it was only for top thin coats but did dry very fast. I saw videos of the customcargrilles guys using the plio grip and gave me the idea, hoped it would have been similar but nope!

I used a mini hack saw to cut the center part out.


Used a Dremel tool with sanding drum to grind down the excess. This is where patience will really pay off. The less you gouge past flush the less you’ll have to fill in later. For the top and bottom I had to use virtually no filling due to taking my time. Once you get close, STOP. then sandpaper flush


I was trying to find a piece of aluminum expanded metal at Home Depot, this is the closest I could find


Cut to size with tin snips and placed accordingly


Used JB Weld to start filling the gaps with a popsicle stick


The back side of the sides has a funky curved shape to it that I wasn’t proactive on initially. I wound up building it up to make it pretty straight across so it would sit flat against the metal grille. I’d recommend cutting the metal to make a straight line across, that would have saved me time.



Filled again and sanded in between applications


As I initially stated, the JB Weld just wanted to run and wouldn’t stay put after shaping while drying. I’d have to put it on the face of the grille and would run down slowly, then put on the back and would hang down past flat. It turned out pretty rough and took a lot of building up, drying, and sanding sessions.


After a few fills and many hours of sanding it is taking shape. Used spot and glazing compound to fill small holes



Finished as much as I was going to do. It sanded smooth as glass. Far from perfect but my fingers were raw from all the sanding at this point

Painted frame in flat black using Rustoleum primer+paint X2 ultra cover. I now have my color match 1D4 paint in and will paint the face of it in Titanium at some point.
While it was drying I test fit everything, attached the lights to the metal grille portion and built the harness for it. I used a quick waterproof disconnect so I could remove it or unplug as or if needed



Used [MENTION=114846]Bluesky 07[/MENTION] method of attaching the grille by attaching zip tie bases



Finished up the grille on table and time to install


Wired it up by running the wires under the hood insulation and attached the wires to the hood using the zip tie bases I had. Ran in through the firewall.



Ran through the firewall and tied it into an ignition wire located in my driver side door sill. The wire is yellow with red stripe (NOT the red wire with yellow stripe as that’s the brake power I tied into my radio back up camera signal remote power) that I previously used for my power wire on my back up camera


I didn’t take a picture of it but I used a basic non lighted on/off 2-way switch on the ground wire to turn off as needed and have in my kick panel.

 

Rhino Rack roof basket, Traction board install & 2 in 1 switchblade key fob

Got my X-Tray large Rhino Rack Basket put on.


Had to put some foam rubber tape on the corners of the factory crossbars due to the basket frame rattling as I drive.



Made some mounts for my X-Bull 3rd Gen traction boards. I used a couple inexpensive Amazon light mounts to attach to the rack and went to the local Ace hardware for some parts to mount it.




Link for the Amazon light mounts. Pretty universal for a bunch of diameters. It’s a little squishy due to all the rubber. It’s pretty decent for such light items though.
Amazon.com: Nilight 4PCS Mounting Bracket Kit LED Off-Road Light Horizontal Bar Tube Clamp Roof Roll Cage Holder,2 Years Warranty: Automotive

Link for the X-Bull traction boards, seem good quality but haven’t used them yet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X-BULL-3-G...ed-4WD/223640829568?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used the following materials for the mounts
1-14 Ga. strap metal cut to length (8 holes)
2-4” 5/16” all thread hex head bolts
2-5” 5/16” all thread hex head bolts
4-5/16” lock washers
4-5/16” nuts for the above
4-5/16” fender washer
4-Nylon spacers with caps
4-Nylon spacers (2 different lengths for the different length bolts above)
4-5/16” washers
4-5/16” wing nuts

I used JB Kwik weld to adhere the 2 pieces of nylon spacers together (albeit unnecessary) to help from losing pieces when they’re taken off. It looks kinda tacky but will grind down and paint black when I paint the rest of the mounts. I’m considering drilling a hole towards the end of the bolt and putting cotter pins through so the wing nuts can’t back out and fall off. They seem to snug up pretty good though.




To secure it from theft I used a Python cable lock to go through the handles and a couple holes in the back of the boards.









Also received my 2 in 1 key fob switchblade. It was easy to program for both the key chip transponder and the keyless remote. People were saying these were less bulky than the factory. I beg to differ, the factory key fob is very slim and small, but with the key it’s a bit wider but is lighter overall.






1.25oz


1.70 oz


Link to the 2 in 1 switchblade key fob I bought.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upgraded-F...T-CHIP/293163996115?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT




Here is a thread with the programming instructions for the transponder key.


Here is a link to programming the key fob keyless entry itself. Post #6 is for an 03-05 and post 8 is for an 06-09. Mine is an 08 and the second sequence worked for mine.


Ace Hardware cut my switchblade key, the lady said she’s not supposed to do it since I didn’t buy it there. I told her I wouldn’t hold her liable if it didn’t work. I told her I’d pay for it if it worked and if it didn’t no worries. I took it in with the key blank loose and not in the key fob.

She cut it and worked perfect. She didn’t even charge me, not that I had any problem paying for it though. The hardest thing about the switchblade key fob was getting the roll pin out and putting it back in. It was a bear and that was with a roll pin punch lol.

The key comes loose, do yourself and favor and do NOT install the roll pin to test out. Then you have to remove it. Again, it was a pain.

 

Gentex 453 Auto dimming mirror w/compass and homelink

Man I’ve been slacking on this build thread, got a lot of updating to do lol. It was broke down for a few months last year and lost my drive, no pun intended haha.

Installed May 2020 a Gentex 453 auto dimming mirror with compass and home link. What a sweet little upgrade and super easy to install, especially with a moon roof. Got it on EBay for around $50 shipped with everything needed to install, including Scotch lock adapters and instructions.

Install was straight forward and just tied right into wiring harness from my moonroof.

 

Limited center console replacement with new buttons/switches

April 2020

Got my Limited center console in with spots for 5 switches now instead of the stock 3. Just replaced all my back lighted switches with orange, which were recently blue (OCD won’t let me keep em blue lol). I wound up just cutting the blue LED’s out of the USB charger since 1-They were blue and 2-I did the full time 12V mod and tied this into the cigarette lighter so it has full time power. Didn’t want any unnecessary power draw.



That gives me enough switches for now. If I need 1 more I can put my USB charging port inside my center console cubby. Problem is my dog would always step on my DAC button and engage it, no biggie though. But don’t want him to step on the rear light button and blind someone behind me. Last step will be to add 1 more switch on the dash somewhere and make it an “ARM” switch to only send power to the light switches once they’re armed

Was able to add 2 to the dash as well

 

Map light, and 12V+ Constant mod

May 2020

*Today I did a few things to my Runner

-Did the map light mod. It is such a dumb design to not have the Map light not turn on when the door is opened. Should have come like that with an on/off/auto switch like a normal vehicle.
Toyota 4Runner Maplight Mod

-I added a basic on/off interrupter switch to turn them off as needed.



-Did the 12V+ constant power for the auxiliary plugs (cigarette lighter) Sure is nice to have constant power and not have to worry about having the key in the ignition.
Toyota 4Runner Constant Full Time 12V Power Outlet Mod

 

Full Monty window tint

August 2020

Just got my windows tinted today, been meaning to for months and had to schedule almost a month out.

He called it “The Full Monty” window tint lol. Did all windows including the windshield with Sun Tex Carbon film.

-55% on the windshield
-30% on the fronts
-18% on the rears including back roll down

 

LED Interior upgrades

September 2020

Here’s the initial kit I started with. I bought it from EBay. Included 2-map lights, 2 for middle and rear cargo lights, all 4 doors, 2 license plate bulbs, and 2 others, think it said for trunk which I didn’t have or not sure where, but are the same as the overhead cargo lights, so worst case I figured I had spares.

12x White LED lights interior package kit for 2003-2014 Toyota 4Runner T41W | eBay


They seem fine and adequate, map lights are very bright. between the addition of the LED map lights and the map light mod makes it very bright when you open the doors, I love it.


I like a lot of light so I did upgrade the 2 overhead lights (rear seat overhead and cargo area overhead) with these and gave me maybe 20% more light

DE3022 CAN Bus LED Bulb - 18 SMD LED Festoon - 31mm - 90 Lumens | Super Bright LEDs






I did have to purchase my vanity lights and glove box light separate to complete my full interior LED swap and used these from super bright led

6612F Vehicle Vanity LED Light Bulb - (1) SMD LED Fuse Lamp - 3022 Base - 30mm | Super Bright LEDs


The factory glove box light is worthless, I didn’t even know I had one much less that it worked. You had to look at the bulb to see if it was on. Makes a big difference

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...md-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/1067/






It’s kind of tricky to get out. I have a “custom tool” (needle nose pliers with electrical tape wrapped on tips) for the removal and reinstall luckily lol.


They’re all 6,500K which is a cool white, not a purple color. With this full LED interior swap, footwell lighting & under seat alumination addition the interior is very bright!

 

Exhaust cam Timing gears with 3* Retard

September 2020

Group buy for the cam gears with a lot of good information and how to.
Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg | Tacoma World

Bought all new seals just in case and went with the toyota FIPG. My seals would have been fine but rather be safe than sorry. Only thing I didn’t wind up using was the throttle body seal since I didn’t take it apart. Replaced the PCV valve as well, my original seemed like it functioned properly though.






Insides looked good to me, but I’m pretty far from a mechanic so don’t take my word for it haha.






The front bolt for the exhaust cam gear was a BEAR to get off as others have stated. I used another wrench looped over the jaw for leverage and the way they were flexing, I thought for sure one was going to break.


Replaced the spark plugs too while I was at it and gapped them proper. Just used the Denso Copper ones. ALMOST every time I change plugs, I have to buy a new gapper lol. I’m sure I have a half dozen or more if I could round them all up at once.

Seems to have made a difference adding a little pep. Added maybe 1+MPG or so on average but my driving isn’t the most consistent.

 

Pedal Commander PC38

September 2020

Bought and installed a PC38 pedal commander. Have been torn between the Sprint Booster and the Pedal Commander. I bought a Pedal Commander for my 2019 Subaru (now have a 2021) and made a big difference so I stuck with what I know.

They offer coupon codes quite frequently, up to $40 that I’ve seen on holidays. If you add one to your cart and add your email, they’ll usually send you coupon codes as well. That’s where the $40 off came from.


I just tucked it in between my seat and console.




They have a really nice ap that is Bluetooth. This way you can make adjustments of the go and not have to worry about digging the controller out from the seat.


It makes a big difference, the 4Runner drive by wire is super delayed. You realize just how much once you replace it. Have to be careful of how sensitive you make it because it will get you in reverse. Gets a little jumpy :car:

 

EimKeith Panhard bar correction extension

January 2021

Had this for probably at least 6 mos. Finally found a buddy that had a 220v welder.


Didn’t get any before pics but definitely very close to level now for the pan hard bar. Had a pretty bad angle previously. 4Runner handles better on bumps, and bounces more vertical at higher speeds instead of wagging like it did. Feels more stable in higher speed turns as well.




I need to get under there with a wire wheel and clean the whole underside up and then paint.

 

Heated seat pads added

January 2021

-I used these from Clazzio, since I have their leather seat covers.
Clazzio Leather Seat Covers - Heated Seats Page




-Here is the link I initially followed to tie into a 25A fuse in the engine bay.


-I wound up using the green wire in the driver kick panel that ties into the 25A fuse into the engine compartment labeled as seat heaters. Green wire ends at the IC4 and goes no further.





-Did the Relay swap from the Tow to the IG to give it power. Bought a couple relays to fill the tow spot. Found a pair pretty cheap on eBay, I’ll have an extra when I need it…… IF I can find it at the time lol.





-Here’s my fuse box after I filled the missing IG relay



-Pulled the seats out and the Clazzio seat covers back to insert the heating pads.




-Drilled out the back side of the center console to add switches. I put them towards both edges which turned out to have clearance issues with the main console support underneath. Had to get after if with my cordless Dremel.







-Ran the wires and mounted the Relay for the kit under each seat.





-Definitely makes a huge difference as the leather Clazzio covers sure are cold in the morning in the winter! Went ahead and drilled a spot for my future “armed” power button for my push LED buttons in center console for when the dogs step on them and we’re not aware.

 

Speedohealer and new gauge cluster lens installed

January 2021

*Speedohealer installed and calibrated

-Followed the install link thread by [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] for the install.


-Bought the universal V4 kit as described in link. Found mine on EBay for a great price





-Didn’t bother with many pics. Here’s with it all apart.






-Here’s with it all wired in


-Speed is right on now, it was about 3-1/2 MPH off before. Not a biggie but nice to have it accurate as well as my Odometer and can get an accurate mpg rating. I had a couple MPH aps I used to double check speed.


-Replaced my scratched old original lens cover for my instrument cluster. Figured I might as well do it at the same time since I’d have it out anyways.



-How the new clear cluster gauge lens looks when brand new


Stoked about both. Not sure which I’m more excited about. Very nice to have such a transparent gauge cluster now. I’m trying hard not to scratch it and brush it off first before I wipe it off to help avoid all the swirly scratch marks that were on the old one. Toyota part#83852-35E50

 

Airlift 1000 airbag install

January 2021

-Airlift 1000 air bag kit install

-Finally bought a tire deflator and a big tire plug kit for my soft side case as well. Here’s the air bags I bought.
Amazon.com: AIR LIFT 60728 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit: Automotive





-It says not compatible with my 4Runner, because it’s an 8-1/2” bag and not a
6-1/2”. I went 2” longer due to my 2” rear lift.

-Used the bottle jack method on top of the axle to get the extra separation to get the spring out/in easier.


-Cut the bump stop in the last groove. It cuts pretty easy but you have to push it away from the knife to prevent pinching. I read where a lot of people had a hard time cutting it.


-Drilled out the base to route the airlines through. Deburred sharp edges when finished.




-Had a hell of a time getting the air bags into the springs. Took a lot of lube, prying and “influencing”! Spent a couple hours getting them in and a lot of hitting with 5lb sledge.


-Getting the springs back in and the airlines ran








I put the Scrhader valves underneath on the outside of my aftermarket HD tow bar to keep them out of sight. I used a Pneumadyne air valve switch to run them together or separate with the flip of a switch. I keep them running common all the time unless I need to load up with weight and need more stability. It makes it nice when airing up or checking psi. You can flip it to shared and you only have to use one valve, then flip back to single as needed.

I used JA’s method here from this link and got the idea about the air switch. Plus it has good information for the install as well.
https://www.top4runners.com/ja/2007/airlift.html

 

Fox 2.0 Shocks, Durobump bump stops, and 5th Gen TRD Pro shifter

February 2021

-Fox 2.0’s tuned by Accutune Offroad W/Resi’s installed in rear. They don’t come with boots, so I bought this universal one and left the axle side open.
Amazon.com: Rancho RS1952 Shock Absorber Bellows: Automotive

Seems to ride great and feels better than my Bilstein 5100’s I replaced these with. So far very happy.

-Installed Durobump extended bump stops in the rear while I was at it




-5th Gen TRD shifter

-I used the approach by [MENTION=112299]Formidable[/MENTION] on his 3rd post on this thread.



It took me a couple hours and was a pain to get it just right by making a lot of adjustments, but probably only take someone else 15 minutes haha. I don’t have the best of luck.

You only get 2-3 full turns before the shifter is seated too deep and won’t go into the lower gears. I used a bunch of blue locktight as well. The nuts are an m8 x 1.25 pitch.

 

Beast 4th Gen spotted at my local Wal-Mart

January 2022

Saw this beast of a 4th Gen in my local Wal-Mart parking lot in AZ. Was hoping to find the owner of it and bombard him questions lol, but never came out while I was there. I always meant to post up to ask about it but never did.

Looks very capable and like it’s been used for its purpose!

 

New OEM headlights installed

May 2022

OEM headlights were sure yellow and looked pretty crummy.

Replaced with new OEM Headlights. Looks so much better, and the headlights were noticeably brighter as well. These OEM’s are not cheap, but I wanted quality.

Before replacing them




After




Trying to get them adjusted close at the house, by matching the tape on the garage door from the old ones

 

Gobi ladder arrival and install

May 2022

It took approx 1 year for my Gobi ladder to arrive once I placed the order in 2021. I knew there were a lot of unhappy people with their back orders and timeframes. I ordered it and just waited. Maybe about the 8-9 month mark I got a call confirming a few things and was notified my ladder was in production.

I like the GOBI ladder mainly that it is slimline and not a bulky one you have to assemble.

Received a nice little go bag with it



Ladder and components


They get adhered with 3M tape




Little Spacer on the inside of the bottom hatch lip



Bottom bolt on piece to the bottom of the lip and bolts to the ladder

 

Rear brake replacements


December 2022

Prepping to change the OEM Rotors, Calipers, and pads with

• Centric painted hub rotors
• Akebono Ceramic brake pads
• Napa Adaptive One painted brake calipers

Old Rotors and Calipers





New Rotors, Pads, and Calipers

 

Sound deadener (KilMat) installed on front and rear doors with Speaker upgrades

October and December 2025

I now have sound deadener on all 4 doors and on the rear hatch. This has made such an improvement in road noise and the conversations are so much easier. The downfall is you start to realize where the other noises are coming from.

I did the front door panels first then the rear. The rear I was much more generous with the sound deadener. I’ll probably slap some more on the front when I have the door panels back off.

I bought plenty initially and plan to at some installl on the entire floor board, firewalls, ceiling, and wheel wells.

I added the KilMat as I upgraded my speakers. I used the Taco Tunes HD speaker adapters and are dense and beefy. Focal Flax Evo Components 6.5”, tweets, and 3” mids (still have to get the 3” mids installed) in the front and Focal Performance in the rear. Couple with a Zapco SQ Amp that sounds great.

Front







Still have to incorporate this 3” mid. Was going to install into the A-Pillar with some nice Pods I have for them but are large and bulky. I’m going to try and fit into the factory mid location and then move the tweet to the A-Pillar (best case scenario)


Rear

 

Installed Driver side orange lighted all Auto window switches and passenger orange lighted
October 2025

This is a nice inexpensive upgrade. Not only for the Auto up/down feature, but also having them lighted. Such a weird and design to have your switches dark in the dark, and frustrating trying to find what is what. The lock portion is still dark and have to fumble with it.

Some people have installed a small little orange LED underneath shining on the switches for visibility. I was hoping this lighted upgrade would be bright enough to light up the door panel switch cluster, but unfortunately it’s not. I may look into adding that small LED at some point.

$30 BELGEMAY Driver-Side Window Switch - 84820-12480/0F040/02150/12460 - Fits 02-15 Toyota Corolla EX/Sienna/Prius/RAV4/Camry/Fortuner (One-Touch, Orange LED) - W/Tool, 1-Year Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FQN98RX1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I did run into 1 issue with the driver side cluster. The switches I bought must be shaped a little different because when the rear is screwed in all the way, the rear windows bind a little on the door panel plastic and they stick when trying to roll the rear windows down partially. If I leave the screws a little loose it is better. Next time I have the panel off, I’m going to shim it a bit with plastic washers.




Also found a single orange lighted window up/down switch that fits the other 3 doors. I opted to only put one in on the passenger side. It’s not an Auto, but nice to have that LED on th switch for a little visibility. It seems to fit fine and no binding.

$13 BELGEMAY Passenger-Side Window Switch - 901-701/84810-12080/84810-08010 - Fits Toyota/Scion/Geo (Tundra/Matrix/xB/Prizm) (Orange LED) - 1-Year Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FK3NYVP8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

Installed a Remote Start by 12Volt solutions

December 2025

I’ve been wanting a remote start in this for years, but seemed pretty intimidating. The Plug and play from 12Volt soloutions was more than I was wanting to spend. I finally but the bullet during their 25% off Black Friday sale last year. It was 100% plug and play, and then programming.

you have to have a separate key FOB remote to start, the 4th Gen doesn’t have the ability to use the factory key fob. this one replaces it though, minus the window down feature, but I never used it anyways.

1 Click= lock
2 Clicks= unlock
Hold the button= Start/Stop

I also bought the drone mobile module. It lets you track it with GPS, starts, stops, real time location as you check it, shows temperatures, and current volts. Since I’ve installed a 2nd battery after this, the current voltage feature is a nice way of telling me how my battery is doing that I can check remotely.

Unfortunately i didn’t get any photos of the install or even the components in the box, just wanted tp get it done. The one thing I will say about this kit is it is very bulky with all the wires and the T-harnesses. It has a T-Harnesses (male & female) that plug into multiple points which is how they make it a plug and play. I had heck getting all the wires jammed in and out of the way. it was so bad that when I actually finished, my parking brake would release from the control boxes, bulky wires, and modules. Had to go back and clean it up/unbulk it the best I could.

I’m not saying this is the best solution for everyone, like everything it has its pro’s and cons.

Since it has been installed though, it has been wonderful this winter! I installed hated seats a few years ago and it’s so nice to got out to a warm vehicle when leaving for work!

Here’s the kit I bought, but was 25% off
https://www.12volt.solutions/produc...-play-remote-start-kit?variant=32136654520423



Video showing the start/stop


Actual link you can click to take you to the video with sound and feedback
https://i.imgur.com/7gxbkq9.mp4

Drone Mobile Ap

 

New Multi LED bright dome light

December 2025

$20 aHei Interior Dome Lighting Upgraded Accessory,Reading light, High-brightness Pure White LED Light,Fit for Toyota Tacoma,4Runner,Rav4,Camry,Corolla,Sienna,Highlander,Prius,FJ Cruiser

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FBS71TMP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Replaced my interior dome LED’s due to one of them starting to flicker. I didn’t realize they made these large circuit board LED set, but they are pretty bright.