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RED LINE OILS...clarification

Discussion in '1st Gen 4Runners (1984-1989)' started by NightOwl, Sep 26, 2019.

  1. Sep 26, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #1
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    I wrote I use on my 85 4 Runner Red Line 10w-30w oil in the engine...but I also use Red line transmission oils in my transmission, transfer case and differentials....they work perfectly. Their fully synthetic lubrication are Awesome and have proven to reduce noises in my 4 Runner dramatically...so I am hoping it is helping reduce wear and tear!!!
     
  2. Sep 26, 2019 at 6:31 PM
    #2
    SR5 Limited

    SR5 Limited New Member

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    What about WaterWetter for the cooling system?
     
  3. Sep 26, 2019 at 6:40 PM
    #3
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    Ballwin, MO
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    1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX
    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    Yes...I use iron my 85 4 Runner and my 2018 Honda Civic Si Coupe...it's also a water pump lubricant and I have used it in all my cars. Your right...their products are exceptional!!!
     
  4. Sep 26, 2019 at 6:41 PM
    #4
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    Ballwin, MO
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    1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX
    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    Oh Crap...not "iron" it's suppose to be I use it...and have for years!!!
     
  5. Sep 26, 2019 at 6:46 PM
    #5
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    I buy whatever is on sale . Brand doesnt matter , the marketers got you hoodwinked
     
    Tama1968, TN_FunRunner and DGP1961 like this.
  6. Sep 27, 2019 at 5:08 AM
    #6
    DGP1961

    DGP1961 New Member

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    Actually most complaints or one big one about synthetic oil is engines run noisier on them lifter noise, etc. Wasn't "Red Line's" claim to fame originally a motorcycle oil?
     
  7. Oct 4, 2019 at 9:25 PM
    #7
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    Ballwin, MO
    Vehicle:
    1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX
    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    Sorry for the late reply on this...yep...you have to be careful on marketing on "snake oil" is what I call it...on the 2016 TRD Pro 4 Runner you have state of the art design on pretty much everything...my 85 4 Runner...with 313,000 miles got to 313,000 miles with a lot of TLC...be careful of using anything in your new 4 Runner...my Dad always said "you get what you pay for". I have always used Mobil 1 in ALL of my vehicles but in my 85 4 Runner it just never worked right...when I switch to Red Line it just ran and felt better in my differentials first, then my shifting second and now my cold starts in Missouri...I'm not selling Red Line...but when it works and works quite nicely I felt compelled to let everyone know...you can't knock what works...313,000+ miles proves something for sure!
     
    SlvrSlug likes this.
  8. Oct 5, 2019 at 1:44 PM
    #8
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    200,000 miles on my Tacoma on whatever brand oil is on sale...proves something 4 sho!
     
    Matteo7239 likes this.
  9. Oct 5, 2019 at 4:50 PM
    #9
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    Ballwin, MO
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    1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX
    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    It's all about hydraulics and clean oil...you must be changing your oil every 3000 or less...even conventional oil works nicely if it's clean. I have chosen Red Line because conventional 90wt, in my transmission, transfer case and differentials were noisy and hard to shift...after such a reduction in noise and easier shifting i chose to go to Red Line for my engine...no harm no foul...clearly at 200,000 you are well on your way to taking care of an incredible truck to last for years...Toyota's are tough trucks!!!
     
  10. Oct 5, 2019 at 5:12 PM
    #10
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Ha I change mine every 12,500 miles. Use Blackstone lab analysis to monitor from time to time. Based on their last analysis I could go 14000. Cheapest synthetic I can find
     
  11. Oct 5, 2019 at 5:18 PM
    #11
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    Amos
    Ballwin, MO
    Vehicle:
    1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX
    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    That's incredible...and by far the most extreme and longest duration I have ever heard...even in my 2018 Civic SI at 5000 the oil is turning brown. You don't have to add oil either? The oil is still amber and not dark brown or black? What kind of filter are you using...that's probably the biggest of all factors?
     
  12. Oct 5, 2019 at 5:45 PM
    #12
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    No added oil and I usually use Toyota filters

    I dont care about the color of the oil remember I get it professionally monitored from time to time
     
    SlvrSlug likes this.
  13. Oct 5, 2019 at 6:25 PM
    #13
    Tama1968

    Tama1968 New Member

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    Yep. Change oil and filter regularly and you'll go far, regardless of brand.
     
  14. Oct 6, 2019 at 8:14 AM
    #14
    NightOwl

    NightOwl [OP] 1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX 22REC

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    Messages:
    179
    Gender:
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    First Name:
    Amos
    Ballwin, MO
    Vehicle:
    1985 Toyota 4 Runner DLX
    LCE header, 2.5 inch exhaust, 31x 10.50 BF Goodrich, 15 X 8 aluminum wheels, Bilstein Shocks, 3 inch lift kit, 3M fender flares
    I have never heard of Blackstone Lab and just sent away for a starter kit...thanks for that information. I'm really curious about how the oil stays so protective for so long...my understanding...while maybe wrong now... is the fine particles from combustion which gets washed into the oil is what causes most of the damage to the cylinder walls and rings...a good filter can eliminate a lot for a while but the filter can only last so long before a bypass begins to open from excessive internal pressure. Then the oil becomes even more abrasive with increasing combustion particles...which leads to premature wear on most all components at that time (bearings, lifters, crankshaft, cam shaft and seals)
     
    2016Pro likes this.
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