Rear Main Seal leak? 2019 Limited

PCV valves can be cleaned and blown out

 

Yes, but they are very cheap. And some have springs in them, which may be a little weakened, maybe

 

Okay, I changed PCV. Old one had dye present in it. But, when I rattled it, it was fine. It was dirty, and it sounded just like the new one.
Before Install, I drove 30 minutes. Came back, oil was present at weep hole. But no drips on cardboard I had underneath it.
Everyday I parked, nothing on the ground. Probably due to skid plate..

 

Yes, PCV valve replacement is now on-condition (i.e. when you have a problem) instead of scheduled maintenance. When you have an engine with an oil leak, it makes sense to eliminate all cheap possible causes first, and PCV valve is as cheap as they come.

Crankcase pressure comes from piston ring blow-by. Some engines with low-friction piston rings tend to have more blow-by (also burning more oil). Driving habits also affect it: blow-by is the heaviest during idle.

 

This engine is known to be easy on oil consumption and little to no blow by issues.
The guys with Magnusson would have major issues and in need of real good oil catch cans (some really work).

 

When I changed the PCV i noticed this.plug on the manifold?. Is this for an export option?

 

Mine is also plugged just like that. Maybe that’s the vacuum source for the 2wd 4runners with the vacuum brake booster?

 

Where exactly is this weep hole? Any pics? I’d like to take a look at mine.

 

If you go under the passenger side, look at the round housing where the torque converter is housed. At the bottom is a black plastic cover about 3 inches by 1 inch. Thats the weep hole cover.. Pull it out, which is very easy, and thats it. If under the car, you can see the flex plate too. Not much, but enough.

 

...

 

ok thanks for the pic, especially the pic of the plastic cover. So, is the hole as big as that cover? I was expecting something smaller.

 

You are one ignorant person. You have no idea why I went to get oil change I dont need you in this thread preaching BS like this.
Take your childish comments and move on

 

its not me, its dealership trying to take your money.

 

Took oil drain cover off and looked up into the rear main area. No oil dye showing. I think its the oil pan that may have a leak. I cleaned it the best I could and am running for a few days to see if I can trace it.

 

Hopefully that’s the issue!

 

Well, After running a bit there is a bit of oil coming out, not dripping, just a little trail. Extremely little oil/dye. Looking up, I see a bolt to some housing, that has a little green on it. The rear of the crank has nothing on it at all. Black light sees no dye while running or off. Regardless, to fix this the area needs to be opened up..

 

Would definitely keep an eye on it if it isn't dripping at this point, which I am sure you are doing in regards to checking oil level.

 

Okay, putting it back together. Its leaking, how much, no idea till I check after 500 miles. I am at 350 now. Dipstick shows no change. I check it same time every morning in Garage.
I have a theory. More 4runners leak than we know. The skid plate underneath mine was full of mud/dirt. It was not allowing oil to drip on floor. Just a theory. Here are some pics. Black light shows it well, but it is hardly anything to see..

 

Correct! I confirmed this. A hose runs from this port directly to the master cylinder brake vacuum booster. Give yourself a cookie!

 

@Steve40th, & Everyone who contributed ... Thank you so much for starting this thread.
I have a 2021 4Runner LE with ~44,000 miles and I've owned it since new.
Just installed new skid plates and I've noticed nearly identical symptoms to OP.
No oil drips ever on the concrete of the garage. The Oil dipstick shows 0 oil consumption ever always at the right level and never going down.
there is just a hint of what looks like fresh oil on the Bell Housing bolts on the passenger side and at the weep hole.

3 things:

1. Should I take it to my local dealership to get it checked for warranty service with the dealership where I purchased it? (Powertrain Warranty is 6yr/60,000mi) I also have the 96month/125,000mi extended warranty)
2. Should I remove my skid plates myself before I take it to the dealership?
3. I've got a local offroad shop ready to install tube bumpers front and rear that will be welded to the frame. If I have that work done first, will Toyota and the dealership try to deny the Warranty Repair on the rear main seal because I've made the mods?

 

Take skid plates off and take it to the dealership. Talk to Senior service manager and explain what is going on.

 

I just checked oil at 1000 miles. No loss.

 

I own classic cars, all of them leak some oil some of the time. You generally can't detect oil leak that is less than 'pool of oil under the car' or 'smells like burned oil all the time' with a dipstick.

 

I agree. But, I have dye in the engine oil, and use a black light. I cleaned it real well, drove and it showed up again. So, it is losing a little bit of oil in the rm seal.
Dye was the best thing I did to locate it, and once skid plates were off, it was significantly easier to locate it.

 

I dont think Toyota has a ghetto mindset like Ford. I do believe more people have a leak, and due to skid plate location, dirt etc, they just dont know.
All my cars leak somewhere. RMS is a bit of a headache for me, due to how much effort is involved in fixing it, if needed.
My Corvette, Jeep ( not to mention all my old muscle cars leaked too). RMS is just a crappy one to have go.

 

I had one and only was noticed because I also had a coolant leak. Once they too off the water pump and other things around it they saw the other leak. 2021 Limited, took them 1 month to fix it under warranty.

 

I’d make that 4runner look like the most well behaved, straight-laced, used only for getting groceries 4runner ever. Otherwise you’ll get the raised eyebrow and you’ll start the fight going up hill.

 

Ha Ha, good point.
Maybe I should put the 20s back on while I've got them in my garage. It'll be tough to remove the rock sliders and the winch though, and put all that plastic I cut off back on.

I've got my service appt setup for Tuesday and I'll keep y'all posted about what it is.

 

Thought I’d share the pics of what I am seeing that looks so similar to OP, since I’ve got my skids removed in prep for the appt.

 

Yep, looks like oil is coming from inside the bellhousing. Main seal most likely.. I would take it in and get it fixed..