Question for Roof Rack Cross Bars

LFD Cross Bars:
I’m either going to get the standard steel bundle or the aluminum extrusion bundle.

The steel has open slots that you bolt up from underneath whereas the aluminum has the track allowing for the t-nuts and such.

wondering if you all have a preference of one over the other?

 

Alumn lighter, but you can use any size bolt on the steel. I'm all for universal.

 

I have a question. It looks like the way that the end pieces attach to the steel or aluminum bars is different. Do the aluminum bars attach just with 2 little bolts through the ends, bearing the weight in shear?

 

Yes, but isn't that how most cross bars on full size aftermarket rack attach (two bolts through the side plate into the crossbar)?

 

On an aftermarket flat-top roof rack maybe. I’ve never seen one up close. But with the steel version of the LFD bars it looks like the cross bars and the end plate are all one piece.

Top: steel. Bottom: aluminum.

 

I had the steel ones on my ‘21 and they were fine.

 

Correct, I understood what you were saying.

 

I have the steel ones and really like them. I also upgraded my rook rails to their 3/4's and have been very happy.

 

Apparently under that end piece for the aluminum bar, there is a 90 degree lip that it sits on as well from reading a bit more info on LFD’s website.

 

Don't know where you're located but I have a set of LFD steel powdercoated bars I no longer use. Make an offer for pickup. I think shipping would be prohibitively expensive given the weight. SF Bay Area.

Took them off because I switched to a full length roof rack to increase packing capacity.

Honestly the extruded aluminum channel cross bars are less convenient for me than the slotted steel ones, but the money is spent and I'm making do. I do appreciate the increased mounting space.

Jason

 

I do greatly appreciate it but I am all the way out in TN so I think you’re right that shipping would probably be pretty significant, unfortunately.

I do also appreciate your input in regards to the aluminum extrusion though, makes me probably think the steel might be a better option for the time being - especially since that is the one you all have and there have been no major issues with it.

 

I went for the Alum cross bars as they use salt liberally around here I can't imagine the mounting failing, way stronger than the factory bars the cross bars mount too.

 

I really like the idea of the extruded bars (and I have some 2x1 extrusion in the shop)... are they noisy at all?

 

Very curious about this as well! How is the noise?

Also, how easy is it to mount and unmount things in your experience?

 

I have the aluminum ones. I've got the fairing in the front, and noise is negligible, barely different than the factory bars. They are sturdy and have held up to every load I've put on them.

I've had a heck of a time getting the right t-nuts to fit the tracks. But that's probably more on me not paying attention and buying the wrong thing.

 

I have the fairing, very quiet for me. The Toyos hum much more

 

I have some extrusion on hand, and I can machine my own brackets. After that, I wouldn't have a problem springing for the OE fairing.

 

Thanks for that!

Those with the aluminum ones too, is there any other downside at all really to getting those over the steel ones?

My thought is just to run 1/4 20 carriage bolts in the rails to mount things and not necessarily worry with the t-nuts for the things I would be mounting but maybe that’s easier said than done, I’m not sure.

 

I'm looking at it from the viewpoint opposite of TRDTyler: I'm thinking aluminum from the non-rust aspect, and I think the extrusion could be more versatile in terms of future mounting options. "Hammer-style" or roll-in T-nuts are The Stuff.

I'll admit that I'm probably biased -- I've built a lot of things from those extrusions over my career, and my steelworking skills kinda stink.

 

Makes total sense!

I am just somewhat torn between which option is better for ease of mounting and which one would satisfy my needs better. I feel like they both are solid options.

To be honest: I like the lower price and utility of the steel, but I greatly appreciate the full t-slots and rust resistant construction of the aluminum.

Also for what it’s worth, the aluminum appears to be slightly wider and maybe ever so slightly taller than the steel too, but I could be wrong - I am basing it solely off internet pics so take that as you will

 

I went with aluminum because I'm in the Northeast and everything steel rusts and looks terrible after a couple of winters. I also liked the lighter weight, and didn't see any strength advantage to the steel, given that these sit on the factory rails, which will give out well before either style of bar does.

 

I don't know about any width difference, but with the aluminum bars you could make your own brackets and give the extrusions as much "height above the rails" as you want (if you needed additional height, of course).

 

I am in the Southeast so not anything major but they do salt our roads when inclement weather is anticipated - and I hate it

But regardless, do you happen to have any pics of your set up by chance?

If not no big deal just figured I would ask just because I like seeing other set ups.

 

I use these M8 T-nuts for the slots on the steel rack. Makes for easy install and removal. They fit through the slot sideways and rotate into the locking position. So no need to fully remove the nut!

 

I have the LFD extruded out in the shed waiting to go on the truck. I am replacing some Victory metal crossbars that are very similar to the LFD although the LFDs look a little taller. The Victory's are very nice but I find attaching hardware from underneath a real PITA. The LFD may be better if they are in fact taller. If you are going "set it and forget it" with your hardware it probably isn't a big deal either way. My needs require moving things around from time to time though.

 

Pics of the LFD assembly:

 

That's a pretty good idea.

 

Thanks for the pics! That’s super helpful showing angles that the website doesn’t too so everyone can see exactly how they are put together.

 

Per the LFD website, SS brackets & mounting hardware, with extruded aluminum cross bars, correct?

 

I think so. I'll check when I get home. I saw this thread this morning and popped out to grab these pics...in the shed...in the dark...in a hurry to leave for work. I haven't actually laid eyes on these since January-ish so I'll get back on this.