Odd brake pedal

Hello. I have a 2wd sr5 with 103k. Well taken care of and bought in Jan. The pedal never has felt firm like my fj. It feels spongey and if you sit at a light and apply regular pressure it holds but feels low.if you apply form pressure it slowly sinks. The master isn't losing fluid. With the truck off and I pump it just pumps to the folr and back up never gets solid. Question is I'm guessing master is bypassing..I am afraid the dealer will recommend the whole 1800 unit. Can just the master plunger typyrta sels be replaced or just master or whole unit..OR is it something else. Brakes are good done at 60k and tgere are no visible leaks at lines or anywhere up top or below are tge wheels frame etc. Thanks for input in advance.

 

When was the last time the brake fluid was fully flushed? Have you tested the fluid? Remember, brake fluid is hydroscopic. It accumulates water from the atmosphere which diminishes brake feel. Before you start throwing expensive parts at it, do a simple test and consider a fluid flush.

 

When is the last time the system was bled? Who did the work? Was there no difference in pedal feel afterward?

 

Carfax showed dealer did front and rear pads at 60k I bought it in Jan at 102k. It didn't feel right on the test drive but newer cars are different with these accumulators and electric boosters...no lights come on a shop checked it and said it's fine
.but if I pump twice at a stop the pedal feels a bit better. As for fluid...not sure..as a mechanic from years ago we'd look for darkened fluid.. the fluid is nice and clean bright color like new out of bottle. What concerns me is if the vehicle off test it doesn't get solid after a few pumps it never gets firm
But I'm assuming the booster is electronic being off it wouldn't? Maybe a flush and bleed is in order
Them.replacing pads at 60k wouldn't need a bleed if my old mechanic knowledge serves me right. It seem like if the pedal is sinking to tge floor almost.. a warning light should illuminate.?

 

I bought all new wagner rotors pads and hardware for front and rear thinking maybe the rotors are undersized..wore past their usable thickness and maybe pads being 40k could be close but that doesn't explain the slow bleed off..

 

Spongy usually is brake fluid. Start there. Complete flush.

 

I would do a fluid flush. More likely some air was introduced in the system. There is a procedure to bleed the ABS circuits in Techstream. GM had a specific procedure available in many bidirectional scan tools; I haven’t had to perform this in any of my Toyotas

 

I'll do that... it's only 99 at the dealer.

 

Thanks for your input

 

These braking systems are inherently a little mushy. You'll oftentimes hear a slight hissing noise as well. I drastically improved the brake feel on my 2011 by completely flushing the system with high quality brake fluid (Bosch) and bleeding using a vacuum bleeder. To bleed the rear, the ignition needs to be on to activate the ABS module to allow fluid to flow if memory serves. I also upgraded the rotors to EBC dimpled and slotted with "Green Stuff" pads. Took a lot of the mushiness away and improved brake feel by a lot.

 

It certainly wouldn't hurt to put my new rotors pads and hardware on. I'm definitely go with flush first

 

That's the most economical fix for now.

 

The fluid flush is very easy and does not require any special vacuum or bleed tool. The front rotors you just need a helper to slowly depress the pedal while you crack the bleed screw. The rear you use the electronic pump to your advantage and just hold the pedal down while having the bleed screw open. Very easy but always keep your eye on the fluid level or you will introduce air and start over. There is a proper order of which corner to start with and work your way from corner to corner.

 

Yeah I'm old and used to the old cars. I ran a shop for 7 years in the 90s..cars and brake systems have changed alot

 

The 2wd SR5, if I recall correctly, does not have the electric brake booster found in the 4wd versions. Instead, it has a good old fashioned vacuum brake booster. Personally I would just replace brake fluid and bleed them. I doubt the process is any different than any other car with vacuum operated brake boosters.

 

Welcome

 

Nope.. this is the electric 2013 the electric boosters acummulator and master cylinder are all in a assembly. If it was tge old style booster I'd have already replaced the master..those I can do. That's also why they want 1800 for the whole assembly or 800 just for tge master but is a mess to disassemble. They also sell the plunger itself that goes into the master from the pedal toyota 44 . This is what it looks like...insane

 

Well that’s weird. I thought the 2wd 5th gens had vaccum boosters. Yours doesn’t look like this?

 

If the pedal slowly sinks to the floor while holding it, i would lean towards the seals in the master cylinder - meaning you need a new master cylinder.

 

I wish...I know how to do those..mine is that monstrosity in the photos.

 

The vacuum booster and master cylinder are different parts. The master is the thing with the brake fluid reservoir bolted to the front of the big drum. The big drum is the vacuum booster.

Not hard to replace but tricky as you have to make sure not to let air get to the abs module and prepping the new master to get all the air out before it gets installed is a repetitive pain.

 

This is a 2013 not vacuum booster that you are talking about. See pics above. It's two motors and master is in the center. It's electronic booster not the old round booster of the past. If that was the case I could do it.

 

Ahhh. My bad. I thought you were saying it looked like the pic that @McSpazatron posted.

I see your pics now. Haven't dealt with that kind before.

 

Yeah me neither. They look like a nitemare. And you know the dealer will.push for the whole assembly. I'll try the flush is not then the rotors pads and bearing s and hibs because left has a slight growl on right turn. So much for toyota quality