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Novice- Need Help Wiring

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by thenewguywiththe24sr5, Feb 4, 2024.

  1. Feb 4, 2024 at 9:46 PM
    #1
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    Hello!

    First time posting on this forum so I don’t really know how things work, so sorry if I’m posting this in the wrong place or something.

    The reason for this post is because I want to wire these grille lights I recently bought to the puddle lights and to a switch.

    These are the lights. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C531JD11?)
    They have this cool start up animation, and I want it to come on when I unlock the car; that’s the reason for wanting to connect it to the puddle lights. The way I have installed now is through the INJ fuse, which means I can’t turn them off without turning off the car, thus my reasoning for wanting a switch.

    I also pre-ordered the AJC fang lights, which I also want for it to come on when I unlock the car and be able to turn off without having to turn off the car. I would like to use their switch back function as well.

    Just to clarify: if I have both lights connected to a switch, they’ll stay on no matter if I have my DLR, parking, headlights, or no lights on right?

    So the problem I face is I don’t know how to do any of the things I want to do with the lights. I don’t know how to connect them to the puddle lights, to a switch at the same time, and be able to use the switch back function. Also, the AJC fang lights only start shipping late March, so would I be able to do all this to the light I already have and just kinda add the fang lights to the mix or will I have to wait?

    Feel free to let me know if there’s a better way to accomplish what I want to do.

    Thank you.
     
  2. Feb 4, 2024 at 11:36 PM
    #2
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Grill lights to the puddle lights? So the grill lights turn on when the puddle lights turn on? I don't understand what you mean when you say grill lights to puddle lights. Tap power?

    Why connect to puddle lights? What does that mean to you?

    "Also use the switch back functions" what does this mean?

    Or we could take a huge step back and give us an overview of what you want to accomplish and we can help.

    Sounds like you're upgrading puddle lights.

    Sounds like you have grill lights in hand and fang lights on order.

    Why not just have the grill and fang light turn on when the car is on? You want them on a switch?

    Where are you located? I ask because I'm in the bay area and would be happy to show you how to do this.

    Also, looks like you have a new 2024 based on your user name. Grats on the new ride.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2024
  3. Feb 5, 2024 at 7:39 AM
    #3
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    Thank you! I’m in Texas and this is my first time ever modding my car!
    The reason I said grill lights to puddle lights is because of this older forum post where the OP wanted the same thing I want: IMG_9999.jpg IMG_9998.jpg
    IMG_9998.jpg
    So from what I understand, if I tap it to the puddle lights (which I have no idea how to do), the grille lights should come on with them.

    What I am trying to accomplish is have the grille lights (the ones I linked) and the fang lights come on and stay on when I unlock the car. I also want it to stay on no matter if I have my DLRS, my parking lights, headlights, or no lights on, but be able to be turned off without turning off the car (I sometimes go to drive in movie theaters with my gf and I need to have my car turned on while having all my lights off).

    The fang lights have switchback meaning the lights can be DLRs and indicators (I’m planning on white DLRs and amber turn signals). I want to be able to use that function as well as the other two functions (if it’s possible).

    Thank you for your help!
     
  4. Feb 5, 2024 at 8:43 AM
    #4
    negusm

    negusm New Member

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    I looked and couldn't find how many wats or amps these lights pull.

    Honestly, any product that doesn't come with a power rating, I would AVOID.

    You really should know the rating of the circuit you will be connecting to, the rating of the devices currently on that circuit and the rating of your new device.

    Forums are littered with cheap Chinese devices that pull more current than they should and create all sorts of electrical issues. MODERN cars are EXTREMELY sensitive to electrical system modifications.
     
    Daddykool likes this.
  5. Feb 5, 2024 at 9:32 AM
    #5
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    I have piggybacking off of the INJ fuse as of right now and they haven’t giving me any problems.
     
  6. Feb 5, 2024 at 11:10 AM
    #6
    negusm

    negusm New Member

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    Until it doesn't.

    Realistically, you're probably OK, but I'd rather know I was ok, than guessing.
     
  7. Feb 5, 2024 at 1:25 PM
    #7
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    i had to reach out to baja designs and ask what the current draw was for one of their products because it wasn't listed.

    It will be fine. These things will draw next to nothing. What ever switch be gets will be able to handle it. He could add it to the puddle lights circuit no problem.

    I'm sure they take less than an amp.
     
  8. Feb 5, 2024 at 2:02 PM
    #8
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    OP sounds like you want the fangs on white while driving, and then used as blinkers with your blinkers.

    Sounds like you want the grill light on all the time, but also come on when the puddle lights come on.

    Is that accurate?
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2024
  9. Feb 5, 2024 at 7:11 PM
    #9
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    Yes but also be able to turn off without having to turn off the car
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2024
  10. Feb 5, 2024 at 8:37 PM
    #10
    steelevo

    steelevo Not so new anymore...

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    Welcome. The best advice that I can give on this is to seek a professional expert and pay them to do the install for you. It won’t be as simple as tapping a few wires. If you were in Utah, I’d be more than happy to help out.
     
    WanderlostOverland likes this.
  11. Feb 5, 2024 at 9:16 PM
    #11
    djwantke

    djwantke New Member

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    Hey OP

    ThaCrow is a great resource here to tap into, a few other dudes are also smart cookies re: automotive electrical.
    I've done a lot, self taught.
    I have grille lights and such, those are fused and on dash switches. I have the fog fangs, those are not inline fused and no dash switches but t-tapped into fused factory light positive and switchback.
    Watch you tube, Search and read 4Runners.com, and if you have lights on a fuse like it sounds like you will, or tap into existing fused lighting, there's no real danger just replace fuse (keep fuses with you when ur piggybacking like that just in case)
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2024
  12. Feb 5, 2024 at 9:40 PM
    #12
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Cool.

    So @steelevo has a pretty good point and it might be worth taking it to someone if you have no idea what you're doing. However, it sounds like a really cool/fun project and would be very rewarding to do yourself.

    But if you want to do it yourself you're going to need some stuff. Wire, crimps / butt connectors, crimper, switch, (maybe) a relay, heat gun or lighter, add-a-fuse, patience.

    If you have zero experience go on YouTube and learn how to crimp wires. You could get a heat gun to shrink the heat shrink crimps (to protect from weather) or you could just use a lighter.

    You're going to need heat shrink crimps/butt connecotrs
    https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-E...6336&sprefix=crimps+heat+shrin,aps,135&sr=8-4

    Crimper + wire stripper
    https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-...96410&sprefix=crimper+strippe,aps,132&sr=8-10

    Wire - get 16 gauge. It's easy to work with. You could go smaller but this will be easy to work with. Here's an assortment. 18 gauge would work just fine as well. Make sure its pure copper and not copper clad aluminum(CCA) because this can't handle the same amount of amps for the thickness. Google "wire gauge amp chart automotive) the thickness or gauge of a wire can handle X amps per a certain length - so any time you're doing this make sure the wire is thick enough for the length of the run and the amp draw or you might start a fire.
    https://www.amazon.com/BEST-CONNECTIONS-Automotive-Electrical-Lighting/dp/B01JM8J4TI?crid=34AX6ZXMTFK05&keywords=copper+wire+16+gauge&qid=1707196506&sprefix=copper+wire+16%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-29&th=1

    Then you'll need a switch to turn it off when you want and not just when the car is off. There's a bunch that will fit the stock location left of the steering wheel. Do some searching to see what you want.
    https://caliraisedled.com/collections/2014-2020-toyota-4runner-switches-accessories

    Switch back module
    https://caliraisedled.com/collections/2014-2020-toyota-4runner-switches-accessories

    Add-a-fuse - there's a lot. Here's a link for one.
    https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-NI-F...otive&sprefix=add+a+fus,automotive,153&sr=1-5

    ==================================================================

    Ok lets start.

    First, these switches are good for about 3 amps so they cannot power more. You need to check how many watts or amps your viper and grill lights require. If you can'y find out, reach out to the manufacturer. Alternatively, you could just try it and see i your switches burn out. "Should" be fine but you'd want to keep an eye on it and be prepared to add in a relay later. I know this might sound dangerous but what ever the fuse is, it wont get hot enough to start a fire.

    That said, your fangs come with a switch back so that's pretty easy. The switch back will take in your turn signal and ignition on power (power that's on when the car is on). You'll need to find the positive wire for your blinker and connect that (with this butt connectors) to switch back. Likewise with ignition on. An boom you're set.

    Now the grill lights. You're really doing about the same thing so you need another switch back module but these don't come with them so buy some linked above. You're going to have to find the positive for the puddle lights and plug that into the switch back where it says turn signal.

    You can see on this picture the switch back is very straight forward. "Running" is ignition on. This is a switch back that I linked. Might look different than what comes with the fangs.


    Now the ignition on piece (running). The ignition on or the running power going into the switch back you want switched (so you can turn it off even if the car isn't off). So you can grab ignition on from the fuse box under the dash like this right here.


    You plug that add a fuse into your switch and then that switch feed ALL of your switch backs running input. You then leave that switch on. And of course just turn it off when the car is running to turn it all off.

    ONE EXCEPTION. That switch is for the running power. Your fangs would still function as blinkers even if you turn this switch off. The grill lights would also turn on with the puddle lights. You can use relays to turn everything off at all times from this single switch, but you're already biting off a lot here and this is something you can add in later. But i would be happy to get into it at any time if you wish.

    Everything you're looking to do has been done. Get on YouTube and familiarize yourself with how to crimp, how to run wires through the firewall. How to install the fangs (I'm sure there's a lot of videos on this) etc etc.

    This was a brief overview. Happy to go further into anything. Off the top of my head this didn't cover grounding. I'm fairly curious myself where the power wire is for the puddle lights. I'm sure somewhere on this forums it has that and the positive lead for the blinkers.

    You can always find a positive wire by guessing - get a volt meter, stab a wire with a sewing needle and see if it makes the volt meter do stuff.

    When you end up getting a switch, if it's a push button stock style switch, here's how you need to wire them, and then their lights will function. Happy to go over this more if/when you get that far.



    you're going to need to do a lot of research but also once you get everything, draw it out. Then think about it and draw it again. Post your drawing on here. Let us take a look and give feedback.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2024
  13. Feb 5, 2024 at 10:01 PM
    #13
    djwantke

    djwantke New Member

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    what a guy, great work
     
    Thacrow[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Feb 5, 2024 at 10:04 PM
    #14
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    lol thx
     
  15. Feb 5, 2024 at 10:08 PM
    #15
    djwantke

    djwantke New Member

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    Bought brand new 2016 After May 2021: -Approx 3" lift/level: Bilstein 5100's, OME 2884 590lb 3" front lift springs, SPC UCA's, ICON 158506 2" lift rear coils, diff drop -Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ LT285/70R17 Load E -Mickey Thompson Sidebiter ll 17x9, 0 offset, 5 backspace -Pro Comp black spline lugs ^installed by 4WheelParts^ -New brakes and rotors by brake shop -4-piece ARB skid kit -Smittybilt 2" nerf steps -MBRP black exhaust tip, chopped OEM -Drivers side OEM FJ oh shit handle -All blacked out emblems -Blacked out roof rails -4x WeatherTech window rain guards -OEM custom rear mud flap deletes -KICK BACK MUD FLAPS 12" WIDE - BLACK TOP AND BLACK WEIGHT -FRAM EXTRA GUARD CA10835 engine air filter -1797 LED tricolor fog bulbs Yellow 3000K White 6000K Blue 15000K 28W 4000LM -Armour paint lower rear bumper -Front bumper high stage high clearance cut -Fenders cut straight across, pink reservoir sprayed black -4Runner Lifestyle sequential fog fangs -4Runner Lifestyle smoked taillight decals -Pedal Commander -Rear passenger cargo mounted 120v truck tire pump -4x Spidertrax 1.25" black aluminum wheel spacers -Yota Twins Paracord Hatch Strap sand camo -Teton Workshop hard anodized matte black aluminum shift knob -Ditch flood lights 4 LED 20w 1400lm w/ OEM hood mounts on OEM style dash switch -Backup flood lights under bumper 6 LED 18w 1500lm on OEM style dash switch -Body Mount Chop; cut, weld, paint -Fender mount chop, re-weld, paint -Fender Liner cut behind wheel (I cut liner in front of wheel clean off at top of viper cut) -Wheel well firewall hammering, painting ^done by Arc One Industries^ -valance cap trim -Agency6 Black Shackle Block 2" US Certified 6061 T6 CNC machined aluminum -DRT fab universal hitch skid -ACDelco inner tie rods, outer tie rods, bellows -Full Dr. KDSS switch kit -March 31 Behind grille 13-1/4" 32 LED light bar + wide-angle, eagle-eye lens 6000lm on OEM style dash switch -RAA Powder coated steel roof rack cargo basket, 1" side rails, 64" x 39" x 6", 250lb limit -roof gas can, water can, shovel -PEAKTOW PTT0063 Hitch Mount Cargo Carrier 51-1/2 x 17-1/2 x 4 inches 500 lbs. Capacity (trips only) -July/2023: purchased first needed SPC balljoint replacement kit - newly released, upgraded non-zerk sealed joints 25002 -July 15/2023: The Original Universal EZ Flares, 1". All four corners -Dec. 2023: removed bumper cover and crash bar, drilled frame, installed Apex Overland KDSS Recovery Points -Jan. 2024: SPC balljoint replacement kit - upgraded non-zerk sealed joint design 25002 -Feb. 3/ 2024: 4x KC Wire Hiders, for roof rack lighting Feb. 13/2024: New ditch lights, on new Rago Fabrication Extension brackets. 3inch Quad Row Amber Pods from LED-Club. 32W 3200Lm 16-LED Spot Beam. Replacing 3inch EVERGEAR clear lens ditch light pods w/ yellow lamix-x In progress: 4th, 5th, and 6th set of off road lights Electrical components and wiring purchased, not started -roof rack scene lighting - EVERGEAR ea. 1,350 lumens, 30w, 3-¾" round floods. Custom, side mounted w/ galvanized flat bar And -roof rack upper ditch lights - 3inch Quad Row Amber Pods from LED-Club. 32W 3200Lm 16-LED Spot Beam. Bar clamp mounted to front corners And -roof rack reverse amber pods / secondary hazard lights. 20W 2000Lm 2-LED Spot Beam. Bar clamp mounted to rear side And -roof rack F1 smoked chase light w/ lighting effects. Custom bolted to rear side -POR15 rust proofing line-up, 3-step process PAUSED until 70⁰ weather Bought, in the garage queue: -BlueFire 6-Circuit Fuse Block with LED Indicator & Protection Cover -Blue Sea Systems 100A Circuit Breaker w/ reset lever -Rust prevention •New can POR15, 2x Black Fluid Film, long spray nozzle attachments, 2x PB Surface Shield, 1x Chainwax •partially used POR15 Degreaser, Metal Prep Wanted - PerryParts or Wheelers bump stops, self fabricated limb risers (seasonal, removable), 1" body lift, powder coated center winch bumper w/ large bar (got no tss), rear steel bumper w/ tire carrier for an LT285 Kumho on steely, sliders, bolt on cat shields
    Not many ppl are so helpful and selfless with their time like dat
     
  16. Feb 5, 2024 at 10:32 PM
    #16
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    Wow, thank you so much. I don’t know what else I can say but thank you so much. I am definitely confused, but I do have someone who knows a lot more about cars than I do ( he helped me wire the grille lights and did some chimping and cutting)

    My main concern now is reliability; if something goes wrong with the lights or the wiring, would I still be able to drive the car without having to immediately fix it? And if the lights were to stop functioning, I would have to basically do all this again, or could it be possible to wire replacements lights to the old wires (if they’re not bad).

    And I agree with you, I want to do this [semi] by myself because I want to learn and because of the rewarding feeling I had when I put on my grille lights. I’m in college right now, studying to become an engineer, and this seemed like good opportunity to gain some experience (as long as nothing blows up). What I think is funny is how I have an HVAC license and was in a class where we did wiring and used relays and such, but I don’t remember anything that I can use for this project.

    Some questions I have right now are :

    I don’t care for the grille lights to act as the indicators, so I wouldn’t need the switch back module for them right ?

    Why wouldn’t I add relays initially? I’m probably wrong but I thought switches needed relays to be able to turn something on and off?

    You did say be patient but how long do you think all this would take? Like I said, I’m in college and I work, so I can’t be without a car for too long.

    But again, thank you so much for your time, energy, effort, and detail (with the links tooo!!). If there’s anything I can do to help you, just let me know and I will try my best.
     
    Thacrow and steelevo like this.
  17. Feb 5, 2024 at 10:48 PM
    #17
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Since you're adding stuff tot he car and not really messing with anything too much it would be easy to leave this project in an unfinished state every day and the car would be perfectly safe to drive.

    I thought the grill lights would be constant on whent he car is on and then also on when the puddle lights come on. So no indicator function. Yes you would need the switch back to make them turn on with the puddle lights.
    You don't really need relays because the switch backs are effectively doing the work of 2 relays - so you technically will have relays, just more bad ass ones.
    No fucking clue :) we're all different and have different back grounds and amount of time available. Good thing is you can drive the car at any time if you need to use the car and its not finished. Might just need to put some electrical tape on the end of a live wire :)
    Very welcome! just let us know how it goes, report back, ask questions and be part of the community here please. I'm very excited to see this work.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2024
  18. Feb 6, 2024 at 12:11 AM
    #18
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Helping is very fun and rewarding. And I think this is a really cool project. Adds some cool uniqueness to his ride.
     
    Steely123 likes this.
  19. Feb 6, 2024 at 7:29 AM
    #19
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    Yes sir I will, but I can’t really start until late March (that’s when the fang lights start shipping). But that’ll give me plenty of time to do research.

    one more question: if I do all this for the grille lights now, I can always come back and add the fang lights later right?
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2024
  20. Feb 6, 2024 at 12:38 PM
    #20
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Yeah you could do the Grill light now. You could even do the grill light now and not have a switch or maybe even have it so it's only on when there's power on the 4runner and don't tie it into the puddle lights yet.
     
  21. Feb 6, 2024 at 1:21 PM
    #21
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    that’s the only thing I’ve done.
    IMG_0040.jpg IMG_9983.jpg
     
    BS67 likes this.
  22. Feb 6, 2024 at 1:55 PM
    #22
    djwantke

    djwantke New Member

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    Bought brand new 2016 After May 2021: -Approx 3" lift/level: Bilstein 5100's, OME 2884 590lb 3" front lift springs, SPC UCA's, ICON 158506 2" lift rear coils, diff drop -Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ LT285/70R17 Load E -Mickey Thompson Sidebiter ll 17x9, 0 offset, 5 backspace -Pro Comp black spline lugs ^installed by 4WheelParts^ -New brakes and rotors by brake shop -4-piece ARB skid kit -Smittybilt 2" nerf steps -MBRP black exhaust tip, chopped OEM -Drivers side OEM FJ oh shit handle -All blacked out emblems -Blacked out roof rails -4x WeatherTech window rain guards -OEM custom rear mud flap deletes -KICK BACK MUD FLAPS 12" WIDE - BLACK TOP AND BLACK WEIGHT -FRAM EXTRA GUARD CA10835 engine air filter -1797 LED tricolor fog bulbs Yellow 3000K White 6000K Blue 15000K 28W 4000LM -Armour paint lower rear bumper -Front bumper high stage high clearance cut -Fenders cut straight across, pink reservoir sprayed black -4Runner Lifestyle sequential fog fangs -4Runner Lifestyle smoked taillight decals -Pedal Commander -Rear passenger cargo mounted 120v truck tire pump -4x Spidertrax 1.25" black aluminum wheel spacers -Yota Twins Paracord Hatch Strap sand camo -Teton Workshop hard anodized matte black aluminum shift knob -Ditch flood lights 4 LED 20w 1400lm w/ OEM hood mounts on OEM style dash switch -Backup flood lights under bumper 6 LED 18w 1500lm on OEM style dash switch -Body Mount Chop; cut, weld, paint -Fender mount chop, re-weld, paint -Fender Liner cut behind wheel (I cut liner in front of wheel clean off at top of viper cut) -Wheel well firewall hammering, painting ^done by Arc One Industries^ -valance cap trim -Agency6 Black Shackle Block 2" US Certified 6061 T6 CNC machined aluminum -DRT fab universal hitch skid -ACDelco inner tie rods, outer tie rods, bellows -Full Dr. KDSS switch kit -March 31 Behind grille 13-1/4" 32 LED light bar + wide-angle, eagle-eye lens 6000lm on OEM style dash switch -RAA Powder coated steel roof rack cargo basket, 1" side rails, 64" x 39" x 6", 250lb limit -roof gas can, water can, shovel -PEAKTOW PTT0063 Hitch Mount Cargo Carrier 51-1/2 x 17-1/2 x 4 inches 500 lbs. Capacity (trips only) -July/2023: purchased first needed SPC balljoint replacement kit - newly released, upgraded non-zerk sealed joints 25002 -July 15/2023: The Original Universal EZ Flares, 1". All four corners -Dec. 2023: removed bumper cover and crash bar, drilled frame, installed Apex Overland KDSS Recovery Points -Jan. 2024: SPC balljoint replacement kit - upgraded non-zerk sealed joint design 25002 -Feb. 3/ 2024: 4x KC Wire Hiders, for roof rack lighting Feb. 13/2024: New ditch lights, on new Rago Fabrication Extension brackets. 3inch Quad Row Amber Pods from LED-Club. 32W 3200Lm 16-LED Spot Beam. Replacing 3inch EVERGEAR clear lens ditch light pods w/ yellow lamix-x In progress: 4th, 5th, and 6th set of off road lights Electrical components and wiring purchased, not started -roof rack scene lighting - EVERGEAR ea. 1,350 lumens, 30w, 3-¾" round floods. Custom, side mounted w/ galvanized flat bar And -roof rack upper ditch lights - 3inch Quad Row Amber Pods from LED-Club. 32W 3200Lm 16-LED Spot Beam. Bar clamp mounted to front corners And -roof rack reverse amber pods / secondary hazard lights. 20W 2000Lm 2-LED Spot Beam. Bar clamp mounted to rear side And -roof rack F1 smoked chase light w/ lighting effects. Custom bolted to rear side -POR15 rust proofing line-up, 3-step process PAUSED until 70⁰ weather Bought, in the garage queue: -BlueFire 6-Circuit Fuse Block with LED Indicator & Protection Cover -Blue Sea Systems 100A Circuit Breaker w/ reset lever -Rust prevention •New can POR15, 2x Black Fluid Film, long spray nozzle attachments, 2x PB Surface Shield, 1x Chainwax •partially used POR15 Degreaser, Metal Prep Wanted - PerryParts or Wheelers bump stops, self fabricated limb risers (seasonal, removable), 1" body lift, powder coated center winch bumper w/ large bar (got no tss), rear steel bumper w/ tire carrier for an LT285 Kumho on steely, sliders, bolt on cat shields
    I've never actually seen those ^
    Nice
     
  23. Feb 6, 2024 at 4:07 PM
    #23
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Oh fuck yeah dude. What ground and power did you tap? How did you wire it?
     
  24. Feb 6, 2024 at 4:25 PM
    #24
    steelevo

    steelevo Not so new anymore...

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    Much better than raptor lights.
     
  25. Feb 6, 2024 at 5:57 PM
    #25
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Better than......2 sets of raptor lights?

    Edit:

    277866.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2024
  26. Feb 6, 2024 at 8:04 PM
    #26
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    I have it piggy backing off the INJ fuse and grounded to a something near the bumper.
    Also, using rule of thumb, the wires they came with to connect to a fuse were really thin so that must mean they don’t pull a lot, right?

    They come with yellow wires for the turn signals but I just have them wrapped up nicely under the hood near the bumper.

    I don’t know, I feel like having those turn into sequential turn lights would be a little corny, but the more I think about, the more I’m thinking why not.
     
  27. Feb 6, 2024 at 8:05 PM
    #27
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    I was thinking of getting raptor lights under the grille but there’s that divider thing in the middle so it wouldn’t really look as clean.
     
  28. Feb 6, 2024 at 9:07 PM
    #28
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    that bar/wench (the bottom of the front grille) is so bad ass.

    Also is it true that the scoop reflects sunlights right into your eyes? That’s the only thing that’s stopping me from getting one.
     
  29. Feb 6, 2024 at 9:42 PM
    #29
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    I never had any issue with the reflection but this is a stock hood and it's all I know
     
  30. Feb 9, 2024 at 6:04 PM
    #30
    thenewguywiththe24sr5

    thenewguywiththe24sr5 [OP] New Member

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    Hey @Thacrow , I did some research and I was wondering:

    why don't I just get this:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZPX32N?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    it comes with a relay, and a switch (which I'll replace with one that will a better one), and I can wire two lights to it.

    I feel like this would save a lot of time and be more efficient but I'm not completely sure.
    Could these power two different lights or just the same pair?
    And would I still be able to wire the switch back module to this?
     
    Thacrow likes this.
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