Lower Link Skids

Has anyone tried the Total Chaos Lower Link Skids on their 5th gen 4Runner?
Also considering the Eimkeith one but would rather not have to pay a welder if the Total Chaos bolt on one is just as good. Was considering RCI one as well but read some bad reviews on it.

Total Chaos version…


The alternate, Eimkeith weld on version

 

Cool, but my concern would be trapped moisture and contamination between the parts accelerating the corrosion in an already rust prone area. Not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.

 

Thanks Slopemaster, very good thoughts to take into consideration. I have 2 offroad shops around me but they specialize more in Jeeps. Neither shop has experience in lower arm skids.
The Eimkeith’s weld on might give more breathability to that area since it is open on the bottom and fits more in line with the stock setup.
The Total Chaos part has an install instruction video and they recommend using a few small weld joints to the bracket so that hitting a rock does not pry the bracket back

 

I was going to say the top picture looks welded
The bottom looks bolted

 

They both can be welded minimally if you so choose.

Go on a few technical trails and you will see how bad the thin factory lower link tabs can flex, distort, catch and chew rock shelves/boulders/etc. It's a real concern.

If you don't live in a high salt winter area, either of these items should be considered, especially on an overloaded rig. Then again, you could also mod them for better drainage with a drill or hot wrench. or maybe clean your underside more often if it's a concern. The steel is thick.

Just my .02. I have been running the Eimkeith versions for about 6 mos. as they seemed to be a less prone to catching rock. If you don't really wheel too much, then you don't really need them, just like anything else.

 

Also, it seems there are many out there who think welding is some wizardry or mystifying art. It's not.

Anybody can lay a decent bead that will hold with a little practice with some farmer rod (7018). This isn't aerospace, you just need to get a little decent penetration. Doesn't have to look like a row of dimes.

An honest shop will charge very little to mount either of these or get your buddy of a buddy and offer a case of beer.

 

I like the idea of these but then get caught up in all the unanticipated consequences. Even though I’m probably blowing them out of proportion.

Some things I’d thing about:

-the TC option isn’t bolt on, at least I wouldn’t want to install it that way. If only the bolt is used I think you could make it worse by making that trailing arm bolt responsible for taking the impact and twist/rotation forces instead of the frame. I’d weld it everywhere it makes sense. Also , the TC seems to require you grind the flare off the bottom of the factory trailing arm bracket.

-for either option, I’d want to make sure the longer replacement training arm bolt is the exact same spec as toyota. Both in hardness and corrosion resistance. Since that might be hard to do, the replacement bolt would be something that should be added to the regular maintanance checklist. A softer bolt will stretch more and lead to loosening.

-I’d consider drainage for both carefully, and drill holes as much as needed to let mud/gravel drain out easily.

-I like the ramp effect/reduced angle between the frame and bracket. But even though it will be less likely to snag, it also means it will contact the ground that much more often.

-I wish they wouldn’t laser cut “branding marks” into these things. The sharp edges always cause rust to form there.


-The eimkeith is open on the bottom which is good for keeping the area from getting packed with mud.

-the TC are closed on the bottom, which keeps the trailing arm end from getting scratched. But could turn into a mud/salt trap.