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Light Bar Switch Wired to ACC Power - How?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by BoiseG, Dec 24, 2025.

  1. Dec 24, 2025 at 9:33 AM
    #1
    BoiseG

    BoiseG [OP] New Member

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    I need to wire up my new Diode Dynamics light bar in my 2024 5th gen and I'm using the wiring harness and switch that I've linked below. I'm a big ignoramus when it comes to electrical theory, I can make all the connections, and solder if needed, but I don't know which wire goes where without someone telling me. :rolleyes: I've found videos on YouTube that detail how to wire the switch to the relay, it's very simple but their method leaves the switch hot and the light can be switched on without the key. I want the lights to be connected to Accessory power, so you need the key.

    I understand that one of the wires coming from the relay to the switch, is the low-voltage power from the battery, and this wire is where the power comes from to close the circuit with the interior switch, thus sending power to the relay, and that connecting this wire directly to the switch is why the switch remains hot. Here's where I'm uncertain. I have an add a circuit fuse tap that I believe is the method to tap into power somewhere in the fuse box; do I connect this fuse tap to the hot wire in the switch and plug the add a circuit fuse tap into a location in the fuse panel that is marked as "ACC" and that will send power to the relay? Is there such a spot in the fuse panel? What do I do with the hot wire coming from the relay? See I'm ignoramus! Thanks for any help!


    Wiring Harness - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R6CT6WD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

    Switch - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLR175B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

    Switch.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2025
  2. Dec 24, 2025 at 9:42 AM
    #2
    Dillusion

    Dillusion Resident A**h***

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    If you want to only be able to turn it on with the accessories. Instead of the battery + running through the switch it would be your acc power.

    The first kit you linked doesn't look like it will work since its already soldered with 1 battery connection. You would need to cut wires.

    See below. Wire gauge and fuse determined by light bar current draw.

    [​IMG]
     
    Borracho Loco and BoiseG[OP] like this.
  3. Dec 24, 2025 at 9:46 AM
    #3
    BoiseG

    BoiseG [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for providing the schematic. Sorry for my confusion, are you suggesting it's better to leave the light bar switch wired hot, so it can be switched on without a key?
     
  4. Dec 24, 2025 at 9:49 AM
    #4
    Dillusion

    Dillusion Resident A**h***

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    I've always wired mine so I can turn it on anytime. Its not that big of a deal as long as you don't install a switch where it gets bumped easily. I've never accidentally left it on but I've also only used mine off road when needed and not 24/7 like some people on the road.

    You could also use the first harness (without cutting) you linked if you don't mind it being powered anytime.
     
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  5. Dec 24, 2025 at 9:55 AM
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    BoiseG

    BoiseG [OP] New Member

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    I'm going to use one of the blank OEM spaces to mount the switch, those are at driver's left knee so should be ok. But then there's me, I can figure out a way to switch it on by accident.

    Thank you for the information, much appreciated!
     
  6. Dec 24, 2025 at 10:00 AM
    #6
    Borracho Loco

    Borracho Loco New Member

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    This was how I had my light bar mounted and wired in my 2021 Tacoma. I had the shop who installed everything hook it to the battery, so I could use it in rare-emergencies if the truck was shut off.

    The button was installed in the dash, to the left of the steering wheel. I never accidentally bumped it. Mainly because the button sits almost flush, so you'd reaaaaaaaaaaaally have to fuck up to accidentally turn it on by accident.
     
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  7. Dec 24, 2025 at 10:10 AM
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    BoiseG

    BoiseG [OP] New Member

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    "You reaaaaally have to fuck up" - Challenge accepted!! :D

    Thanks again guys, I think I'm going to wire it hot.
     
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  8. Dec 24, 2025 at 10:53 AM
    #8
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Speed holes
    I installed mine such that the car has to be on to use it because I figured it was substantially more likely for me or someone to accidentally drain the battery than to have a scenario where the car wouldn't turn on, or I wouldn't want to turn it on while having the light on.

    really....whats the scenario? you're car won't start but it just so happens to be pointing where you need light? and your headlamp (which you should have) doesn't work?

    It just makes it foolproof that you need the car on.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2025
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  9. Dec 24, 2025 at 2:50 PM
    #9
    Charlievee

    Charlievee Not new member.

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    Eibach stage 2, load lifter kit, Maggie w/ OTT tune... Other stuff.
    Could use the trailer brake harness.
     
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  10. Dec 24, 2025 at 6:42 PM
    #10
    BoiseG

    BoiseG [OP] New Member

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    Back to the original question, it didn't get answered. If I wanted to wire it up powered to ACC ----> ... I have an add a circuit fuse tap that I believe is the method to tap into power somewhere in the fuse box; do I connect this fuse tap to the hot wire in the interior switch and plug the add a circuit fuse tap into a location in the fuse panel that is marked as "ACC" and that will send power to the relay? Is there such a spot in the fuse panel? What do I do with the hot wire coming from the relay if I'm not going to hot wire it?
     
  11. Dec 24, 2025 at 8:20 PM
    #11
    Thacrow

    Thacrow New Member

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    Did you look at that wiring diagram? Can you phrase your questions per the diagram?

    You make me think you have a 5 connector relay instead of the 4 connector in the diagram.

    Edit: below is accesory power which i take to mean when ignition is on. However I tested this when the engine is running but im sure its probably ignition on. But you can grab a volt meter and start checking.

    20230408_213616.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2025
  12. Dec 25, 2025 at 8:14 AM
    #12
    BoiseG

    BoiseG [OP] New Member

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    My relay is exactly as the diagram. I've pulled the wires from the relay through the large grommet in the firewall to be wired to the interior switch.

    There are 3 wires in the harness from the relay, Blue (Positive Output), Black (Negative) and White (Positive Input).

    My switch has 4 wires. Green (Positive), Red (to Relay Positive Output) , White (Switch Illumination) and Black (Negative).

    This is how I connected the wires from the relay:

    Blue (relay positive output) to Red wire from switch.
    Black (relay negative) to Black wire from switch
    White (relay positive input) to Green wire from Switch

    White wire from switch is connected to 7.5A ACC fuse with an Add a Circuit Fuse Tap.

    As I have wired it, the light bar is always hot. I tried a couple things to get it to draw power from ACC only, but I couldn't get it to work.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2025
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