Hit 1k miles..how long for first oil change?

Curious to hear people's opinion on first oil change.

 

I’ll do my first at 5k, since it’s winter and I just got it. But personally since I work it, Ill continue 5k.

 

900 miles ago why did you wait!!!
No just joking I changed mine at 2k and then every 4K after that
Good luck with the dealer they suck don’t leave there without checking your skid plate and see if they forgot to put oil in
Mike

 

I did mine around 2000 miles or so. After that 5-6000 miles.

 

first 4 changes at 5000 each. now every 10,000

 

When we get to 5000, I'll do the 1st oil change myself, then when it gets to 10k, I'll let the dealership do 1st "free" oil change. Ours is getting oil changes at 5k. The 1st oil change is where the Fumoto oil drain valve gets installed in the pan, I have a few of them installed on different things and they are handy, no fuss, no mess things to have.

 

These things take oil??

 

I've heard that they do......Still not convinced though!

 

First oil change 12mon or 10K miles which ever comes first. First service 6mon or 5K miles which ever comes first.
Since its free service I doubt dealer will change before 12 months or 10K miles which ever comes first unless you pay out of pocket.
Personally I follow the schedule as per the manual. And since I pay out of pocket now I do oil changes around every 7500 miles or 12 month mark since I got little larger tires.

 

10,000 miles or 12 months in service.

Unless a used oil analysis indicates otherwise.

 

I used Fumoto on my Wrangler.. worked great but always made me nervous since it stuck out so much... Will be using one for sure. .. just need to confirm which one fits a '21.. i have this one in my cart.
F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series

Fumoto Original F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9FCRWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_4dK5Fb1VZVXRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Do it now, get rid of break in oil and all the crap from inside the motor, then follow the recommended oil changes at every 10k miles. I do mine every 5k since I do it myself and keep mine till 200k miles.

 

So what are the advantages of this valve? Just to avoid having oil spill out when you take the filter housing off?

 

Gotcha. Looks neat! Might actually look into it, my garage floor might look cleaner

 

Change it at 1K and send it off to Blackstone labs for analysis and each time after @ 5K

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/?se...abs.net/Bstone/(S(3dwnzwrogdv0d455nqcp0bbq))/

 

There’s been numerous people on tacomaworld who have sent oil samples at 10k intervals and have optimal levels of contaminants in their oil. No need to waste money. The engineers at Toyota guessed it right to change the oil at 10k miles, who would’ve thought!

 

Vegetable oil at that....

 

Oil analysis on a new engine? That will add at least $30 for each oil change.
Frequent oil analysis is useful for racers, engine builders, constant heavy duty use, and high mileage engines. Or if you’re trying to stretch out your oil change interval. Not useful for most of us.

 

I do it so I can watch what's happening with with the oil and engine overtime I think its peace of mind for me...

 

I changed mine ~5,000 miles, when the service reminder came on. I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and the OEM filter and won't worry about it again until the next service reminder.

I remember when "break in oil" was a thing, and you were supposed to change it at around 1,000 miles. But Toyota recommends nothing of the sort with the 4Runner, so I would mostly have done it just to make myself feel good. As expensive as this oil is, that's not a feeling I needed to buy.

 

Approaching 5K mark; gave the Runner its first oil change on Xmas day using Toyota 0W-20 and filter. Installed a Fumoto valve and Toyota aluminum filter body as well.
Also did some Woolwax touchup while the front skid was off.
Can’t remember the last time I did my own oil change... never I think. Searched through the forums and YouTube for proper procedures, took my time, the whole thing wasn’t bad at all.
Considering the horror stories I read on dealer mishaps, I rather spend a little money and time ensuring it is done right.

 

I have been changing oil at 1k on everything I own. I opened up the pleats on the 2020 4R and there is a lot of chips. I have done this for over a dozen engines, I have never had one I had to add oil to, burn oil etc. the filter looks pretty bad at 1k.

 

My 19 T4R was loaded with silver matter

 

The factory fill is a very good oil. There is no need to change it before 5k miles, and that's only if you do a lot of towing/off-roading and/or short trips. 10k miles is reasonable with a mix of highway and in-town miles. If you only drive 5k miles in a year, then change it once a year. These engines aren't too tough on oil. No need to get lost in a rabbit hole over this.

 

silly thread

 

Absolutely do first change before the 5k mark. People are correct in that modern engines get “broken in” at the factory - but, that is a short duration engine run. Having seen the condition of my oil at the 5k mark, I would’ve done the first change at 4K (I did drive it pretty hard though - it was on the trail already with only 2k miles on it).
I’d recommend you do the first one yourself at 5k, let the dealership do the 10k service, maybe do one more change yourself at 15k, dealership at 20k - and then you should be good for 7.5-10k changes. Keep in mind, a lot of this depends on the use. Cruising highway at steady speed miles are very different from city driving, towing, running the trails miles.

 

I will never let the dealership (or any other shop) change my oil. Way too many opportunities for mistakes with the complicated procedure on this rig.

 

Can you explain the "complicated procedure" on these rigs?

 

Sure.

Remove plastic skid cover. Opportunity to lose relevant bolts and push pins.

Remove oil drain cover. Opportunity to lose/strip relevant bolts or forget to replace cover.

Remove entire front skid plate. Opportunity to lose/strip relevant bolts or forget to replace skid.

Drain oil. OK, not much opportunity for mischief here unless tech is completely incompetent.

Drain oil from filter using weird little plastic tool. Opportunity to screw up somehow.

Remove filter holder. It's plastic. Plastic can get messed up unless you're careful.

Swap out filter. Pretty easy.

Reinstall everything you removed.

Fill engine with oil.

I'm doing this from memory, so I might have missed something. But the bottom line is that it's a somewhat cumbersome process that isn't well-suited to a turn-and-burn service department.

 

Whoa.... that seems harder than I thought