1. Welcome to 4Runners.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all 4Runner discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other 4Runner owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

HELP - Shock Assy. Stuck/Rusted to Frame Mount...

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by mr_souc, Nov 28, 2020.

  1. Nov 28, 2020 at 11:16 AM
    #1
    mr_souc

    mr_souc [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2019
    Member:
    #9931
    Messages:
    17
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joel
    Vehicle:
    2012 SR5.
    Stock (for now...)
    Hey all, looking for some ideas before I loose my shit...

    2012 4Runner, SR5 w/ 130k miles...

    80% through the driver side SR5 to TRD Pro coil and shock assy. suspension upgrade, I straight up could NOT get the goddamn stock shock to come out of the perch on the frame...

    Tried all the typical options, heat, hammer, bfh, prybar, chisel and hammer, even reassembled everything to try bouncing on it... Nothing, no movement...

    The three 14mm bolts on the top hat are off, the 19mm on the bottom of the shock is out (I can wiggle by hand the whole assy.), the 17mm UCA upper ball joint bolt is out and the whole LCA is hanging free... I also loosened the 22mm LCA bolts to allow a little more room to beat on things and still nothing...

    Any ideas? I have beat on and fucked with this thing for almost 2 hours with no luck... (haven't even started the passenger side too). I'm out of ideas other then reassembly again, and taking it to a local shop do it...

    It's unbelievable, I'm guessing the difficulty is due to the wear & tear from millage. I have done two Tacoma suspension lifts (2011 and a 2014) and the shock assy. slid right out. I also recently did a suspension lift in my 2014 Tundra, same thing no problem, the shock assy. slid right out slicker than snot on a doorknob. I've NEVER had this much of an issue evah... Pissed me right off mistah!

    IMG_2922.jpg
    IMG_2921.jpg
    IMG_2918.jpg
    IMG_2919.jpg

    Thanks all!
     
  2. Mar 1, 2021 at 7:29 PM
    #2
    mauspalls

    mauspalls New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2018
    Member:
    #6761
    Messages:
    52
    Gender:
    Male
    SW Washington
    Vehicle:
    2018 TRD Off Road - nautical blue
    Dobinsons 1" lift, 255/80/17 Falken Wildpeaks, Tundra battery mod, Extreme LED Pro Fogs, lots of good mojo
    Yikes. I say nuke it from orbit. If you can't do that, I've had good luck with a nice long vinegar soak - just be careful to only get it where you want it. I've used the super strong 30% vinegar they sell at Lowes (not the 5% variety you find at Target) with good results. Use safety glasses and gloves, though! Maybe a respirator, too, if you're working in a confined space.
     
  3. Mar 22, 2023 at 3:11 PM
    #3
    Marieileen

    Marieileen New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2023
    Member:
    #31904
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Female
    Vehicle:
    2007 4Runner Sport
    Hi did you ever figure this out successfully? I am having the same problem and I cannot get them separated after trying everything you mentioned as well… I haven’t tried the vinegar soak yet.
     
  4. Mar 22, 2023 at 3:16 PM
    #4
    ChessGuy

    ChessGuy New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2021
    Member:
    #23918
    Messages:
    549
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    LR
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    2020 TRD Pro / 2017 Tacoma TRD Pro
    Too many..... Performance: • Magnusum Supercharger • Gibson exhaust with dual black tip • Pedal Commander * PowerBrakes • Suspension – Old Man Emu BP-51 front and back with Medium load coils • Tires: AT3 Faulken Wildpeak – 285/70/17 • Wheels: Relations Race Wheels, RR7-H with -12 offset • Full roof rack and ladder by Westcott Design (removed the stock Yakima basket) • Molle storage panels by Rago fabrication • Front light brackets by Rago • Illuminator light bracket by Rago (roof rack location) Lights • Morimoto front and back with sequential signals • Morimoto fog lights and side mirrors with sequential signals • 40” Baja design light bar for roof rack • 20” S8 Baja design driving combo (winch location) • Squadron sport baja design ditch lights • S2 Chase lights by baja designs (mounted on roof) In the bay: • Odyssey 34-PC Battery • SDQH Aluminum billet battery terminals and bracket • Switch Pro 9100 with aluminum tray • Anytime front and back camera • ARB twin compressor Recovery & Protection: • Smittybilt X20 synthetic rope winch • Factor 55 fairlead and flatlink • Southern Style Off-road (SSO) low profile bumper • SSO stage 2 high clearance wings • Weekend warrior recovery kit by treaty oak • RCI – skid plates – entire vehicle + catalytic converter protection wings Interior: • Nano Ceramic IR – Avery Dennison Window tint – all windows • Several phone mounts • Upgraded Rear Hatch lift gate struts (ladder is heavy) • Boom blaster horn switch (featuring La cucaracha)
    Spot on with this advice. 100% all the way. Nuke it before the damn cancer keeps spreading to other parts of the truck.
     
  5. Dec 11, 2023 at 4:43 PM
    #5
    Higgbra73

    Higgbra73 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2023
    Member:
    #36039
    Messages:
    112
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brad
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    16' SR5 Premium 4WD
    Voxx "PRO's" Bronze (17x8.5) wrapped in 285/70-17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T's, 5100's with Dobinsons C59-302 2.5" front coils and Ironman 1.5" Light Load rear coils. RCI front skid plate. Freedom Offroad UCA's.
    If you accessibility air tool, soak the shit out of it with penetrating fluid, then use a flat head chisel & air hammer
     

Products Discussed in

To Top