Got check engine light, rig stalled

In Polebridge Montana. Got a check engine light with these codes, reset codes. Rig stalled shortly after. Ugg. 19 trd pro 113000 miles. Recently cleaned MAF, throttle body, PCV new.

going to look around under hood. Limited WiFi but will be here for a bit.

 

A few things to check:

• Look at all the lines and make sure there are no tears or vacuum leaks.
• You cleaned the MAF, maybe too wet or too dry...or something.
• What air filter are you running?
• Clear the codes if you can and just let it run.
• Did you disconnect the battery after you cleaned the throttle and the MAF etc so that you were able to reset the idle. Not a reason...but seems like this trick is needed every time the throttle is cleaned.
• Don't worry too much. It will be fine

Good luck!

 

A p0171 / 01074 code directs to a "lean" code, meaning engine is receiving too much air beyond it's metering position (MAF) - with what you've done you either have left a vacuum hoses disconnected, or you have developed a tear down the line.


Clearing the codes is like a short term memory loss.. you are essentially triggering your engine to run on default parameters (open loop) until the sensors start giving information back (closed loop) and during that stage it will trigger the code again - since you did you pcv did you check to see you plugged it back in?

 

When I cleaned the MAF and throttle body the negative side of battery was disconnected.

K and N filter, cleaned 600 miles ago.

I’m going to look at grounds in the engine bay. I’ll look at vacuum lines I can see.
I’m only concerned because when. I drive home it’s 50-70mph and I don’t want it stalling on a Montana highway.

 

Sounds like an intake leak based of your previous work. You can test it by spraying some throttle body cleaner (or other flammable spray) in the areas you worked on… if revs go up or engine cadence changes, you have an air leak in that area.

Other causes are disconnected PCV plumbing or anything that can cause an air/vacuum leak on the intake.

 

Right here on the RED above. I think your K&N filter was either too dry or too wet. I have had issues with this thing as well and can't wait to get back to regular paper filters. If you can't find any vacuum leaks or issues in the plumbing into the throtle then, I think a good amount of "mist" went into the MAF, or some debris or something and the ECU just didn't like it. I would clear the codes and just drive it and let it get settled in the new "clean" environment and see if it everything goes back to normal.

 

Damn. It was 2pm when the OP took that picture and it was 48 degrees. It sucks he's having CEL problems, but I'm jealous of that cool weather.

 

When I find the guy who works on this I’m gonna smack him.

found negative on battery was 1/2 turn lose. All grounds in engine bay are tight and clean. Checked vacuum lines and they seem good.

Checked filter and it seems clean. I do have a TRD intake previous owner installed.

Why would it stall though?

Going to camp on the flathead river and take a swim, have a ribeye and drink. Hopefully this is it. I stop by this WiFi and update tomorrow.

 

That was higher elevation. It’s 78 now. Probably warmer if not for this damn smoke. 51 years to get to Glaicer NP and this is my view.

 

Okay, look.... If you're gonna rub it in that you have cooler weather and awesome views I can't feel bad for your CEL light. Maybe you brought that on yourself!

 

This picture here is very telling. Look at the clamp and rubber piece - I see a big gap here from left to right. Smack the SOB

 

Hopefully that boot wasn’t disconnected. It would not cause the OPs lean mixture, but would let a lot of dirty air enter the engine.

 

Likely over-oiled the K&N filter and the MAF and IAT elements are covered in oil.

I’d clean with MAF Cleaner aerosol, install a regular paper filter, and leave the battery disconnected while doing this.

Also verify the induction tract is connected properly and clamps snug.

 

Looking at the pic of the botched intake install, the MAF sensor is probably filthy. I would buy a new throttle body gasket, guessing the stock was reused after cleaning the TB. I would clean everything (inside) after the air filter.

 

TuRD intake box is kinda crap, easy to over tighten the clamp and collapse the thin plastic where the intake tube mounts. Main reason mine went in the trash.

 

Bingo! Good eye.

 

Loose battery terminal can cause a stall. The intake coupler leak can't, because it's upstream of the MAF sensor. However, check the other end of the intake tube for a leak where it connects to the throttle body. When the engine torques in its mounts, it can pull away from the intake tube. The intake relies on the red rubber couplers to flex like an accordion and take up that distance change.

 

Isn't that red silicone gasket supposed to clamp around the air filter housing outlet instead of just hanging around next to it?

 

Made it into Whitefish, no issues after last yesterday. I’ll look into cleaning MAF and throttle body when I’m home in a few days.

 

I’d mooch a screwdriver and fix that intake boot so you’re not sucking dirt into the engine.

 

Yep, that will definitely cause your DTCs codes.

id put a regular OEM factory paper filter in there (the thick boy with the pre mesh) and spray your MAF with crc MAF cleaner, and check throttle plate

 

The little bit of rain that we got in the Missoula area really cleared out a lot of the smoke that we've been breathing for the last week or so.
Hope that you make it back home safely to give that mechanic some words to remember.

 

If this happens again, install better clamps:

$24 Glarks 12Pcs 6 Sizes 32-116mm Stainless Steel T-Bolt Hose Clamps Turbo Intake Soft Hose Intercooler Clamps Assortment Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1Q2JVN/

 

Did that as soon as I saw it. Lucky I only drove a bit before it was found. Definitely going to keep it tighter and check it more.

 

I’ll check these out to be proactive, thanks.

 

The “mechanic” is not happy with himself. Glad I didn’t drive long with the code.

 

Thanks for recommending these to the OP.
I’ve been thinking about better clamps for this as well.
Appreciate the suggestion!
Now to figure out the sizes…

 

Made it back to Glaicer with no issues. Was here last Thursday and couldn’t see anything. Thunderstorms last night cleared the air on the Flathead river where we camped. Glad we did. In St Mary’s campground which like all campgrounds, sucks, but it was available.

 

If you have worm-style hose clamps right now, their size is usually engraved right on the clamp. Or get the variety pack I linked, comes with two of each size.

 

If you have a scanner, monitor the Long Term Fuel Trim values for banks 1 and 2…before and after cleaning the MAF and IAT elements.

Normal values are 0% +/- 5% and both banks within ~2% of each other.