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Frame Rust?

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by 4runner184, Feb 4, 2025.

  1. Feb 4, 2025 at 9:37 AM
    #1
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    Looking for opinions on this frame condition. 2013 4runner 90km (55miles), life spent it Canada with some road salt and sand. Seems lots of the rust is forming around the welds and rear axel and no signs of oil coatings. No holes or soft spots from what i could tell just some small flakes. (hammer and screw driver).

    Frame 1.png
    Frame 2.png
    Frame 3.png
    Frame 4.png
    Frame 5.png
    Frame 6.png
     
  2. Feb 4, 2025 at 9:44 AM
    #2
    scanny

    scanny New Member

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    for 11 years old Canadian 4runner it doesn't look too bad to me. Providing of course price is right.
     
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  3. Feb 4, 2025 at 10:05 AM
    #3
    5thToy

    5thToy New Member

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    We have seen a lot worse from 10-year olds in the rust belt.

    However, if I see what I think I see there might be a hole in your exhaust pipe below the hanger in the right side of the last picture. It could just be a sharp shadow from the light source on the weld material though.
     
  4. Feb 4, 2025 at 10:18 AM
    #4
    94hokie

    94hokie New Member

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    I was honestly expecting worse given the year and location, that is about par for the course for most used 4Runners in my opinion.

    EDIT: To add you can stop most of that in its tracks with numerous products for undercoating/frame protection (search here and go down the rabbit hole). That would definitely be top of my list if you purchase the truck.
     
  5. Feb 4, 2025 at 10:25 AM
    #5
    Photon_Chaser

    Photon_Chaser 49787 and counting…

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    Aside from what looks like a very useable frame, what does the condition of all the fasteners (shocks, control arms, links, etc.) look like? Of the ones visible they appear serviceable which means doing component r/r wouldn’t be a nightmare.
     
    4runner184[OP] likes this.
  6. Feb 4, 2025 at 12:11 PM
    #6
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    Did you check the front radiator support crossmember (where the tow loops are mounted)? That spot is especially prone to disintegrating from rust. The other area us the body mounts and the frame area it’s attached to, especially on the passenger side that usually stays wet all summer from AC condensation drain.

    Depending on the price, what you show looks serviceable.

    That said, it’s in the early stages of being bad. If you keep driving it without paying attention to the rust, I think you’ll have perforated frame pretty quickly. Once the rust get’s puffy, it’s a salt-water sponge…the rusting is going to happen at a much accelerated rate from now on.

    If it were mine, I’d do the following as soon as the weather allowed and the rains have rinsed salt off the roads:

    -remove the skidplates and spare for clear access to everything.

    -use a hard wire brush to “crack” the paint off all puffy rust areas, and descale the loose stuff. Don’t go nuts with this, otherwise you’ll never get it done. The idea is to reduce the amount of puffy rust that holds salt-water like a sponge. Your rust-descaling doesn’t have to be anywhere near perfect (you won’t be using paint in the next steps)

    -wash the frame and crossmembers inside and out with lots of water. Thoroughly. Include the use of a salt dissolving liquid if you at some point in this washing step. A garden hose will do, as long as the nozzle will let you direct water into the holes of the frame. Keep rinsing inside of frame until the water drains clear. Drive it around a few days to let it dry.

    -get a gallon of fluid film (lanolin), a decent size painters brush, and then drown the ever living life out of the frame with it. Warm it up in the sun to thin it, then glop it on, thick and heavy over everything you see (except rubber bits). Use the brush to work it well into the scale rust areas. You can use spray cans of fluid film to get into hard to reach areas like gas tank straps mounting points, but the majority I would brush. Because you’ll need to make sure all the scaly/puffy rust is fully saturated. Work that brush really good into those areas.

    -use a compressor (or spray cans) and a long wand to heavily coat the inside of all crossmembers and the frame rails. Warm fluid film is probably good for this, or a cavity wax product if you know it will wick and creep before it sets up. Pay attention to body mounts (nooks and crannies) and anywhere you see sandwich weldments.

    -drive it for a month or so, go down as many dusty gravel roads as possible. Drive down wet muddy roads/trails when possible. The idea is to saturate the fluid film with dirtiness and grit. This helps set up the fluid-film and makes for a good base layer for the next step.

    -rinse the frame off with water to get any loose mud off. Then get gallon of Woolwax (it’s thicker than fluid film), and brush it on with a painters brush…again, use a lot of it, all over the outside surfaces of the frame. Drown it in that shit.

    -find those same gravel roads and muddy puddles, get it dirty. After a few months, hopefully before the following winter, you should have a really nice crusty woolwax coating that will last a really long time. It will look disgusting, but beautiful. More importantly, it will be inside the rusty scale, which will prevent it from developing further.

    -touch up in a year or two with the left over woolwax.
     
  7. Feb 4, 2025 at 12:15 PM
    #7
    Tooly

    Tooly New Member

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    What part of Canada we talking here? Anything West of the Rockies that doesn't look too bad. Anything East of that I'd be leary of no matter how close you inspect it.
     
  8. Feb 4, 2025 at 12:20 PM
    #8
    Lc200

    Lc200 New Member

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    Not too bad, but keep looking. This would require proactive maintenance for it to make it last.
     
  9. Feb 5, 2025 at 5:10 AM
    #9
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    Price is good compared to the market. Original owner, just didn't drive much from the KM's
     
  10. Feb 5, 2025 at 5:11 AM
    #10
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    I think that's where the exhaust hanger is welded to the exhaust
     
  11. Feb 5, 2025 at 5:19 AM
    #11
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    Rad support is one of the cleanest parts of the frame actually. Tow hooks are still attached and not much surface rust.

    I've been using fluid film for years and would probably do the same here. Have a neat 3' long 360 spray attachment that goes on top of the cans. Never tried Woolwax, but if it leaves a thicker coating that would positive.

    My only concern with the rust along the weld seems is they have the potential to be very porous and hold moisture deeper down. Another comment about the welds.... maybe one of Toyotas shortfalls, but they are very messy, no clean lines, lot's of little "missed" spots. You would think with all this overlapping metal they would have cleaner welds.

    In your opinion and solely that, how much life do you think this frame has with the "treatment" you laid out. I would hope for 5-10 years, but don't know if that's being too optimistic
     
  12. Feb 5, 2025 at 5:23 AM
    #12
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    For sale in Calgary. Usually anything west of Ontario is where i think is acceptable. MB/SK get cold enough where they can only use sand for long periods, salt around -7. I think AB uses salt when the temperature allows.
     
  13. Feb 5, 2025 at 5:51 AM
    #13
    Technologic80

    Technologic80 Sexy Member

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    Its fine, full send.

    Get it undercoated immediately, if you purchase it, and maintain that undercoating regimen at least 1x annually.

    Whats good? You can search the 4Runner forums, or your friend google, but Fluid Film seems to be #1 these days, Wool Wax, Kroil, Krown etc etc etc. A Fluid Film treatment right away would completely arrest that rust from advancing and prevent new rust.
     
  14. Feb 5, 2025 at 7:44 AM
    #14
    Turd Ferguson

    Turd Ferguson New Member

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    Check above the spare tire too. That’s one of the rustiest parts of mine.
     
  15. Feb 5, 2025 at 7:54 AM
    #15
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    A big believer in fluid film already! Just worried with the amount of surface prep
     
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  16. Feb 5, 2025 at 7:55 AM
    #16
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    Surprisingly very clean
     
  17. Feb 5, 2025 at 8:34 AM
    #17
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    That’s why I like using a brush. You can work it into spots that look porous, and you can really control how thickly it’s swabbed onto the area. Woolwax is thick enough to stay in place long enough to set up with dirt/dust.

    With a thinner layer first (fluid film) then a thick layer of woolwax, it will either soak into pores, or at least seal it off from air, which is what causes rust.

    If you do a really good job once, it will buy you at least 5 years (added life) at least I’d guess. If you inspect and touch up once a year, I bet you could go indefinitely.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2025
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  18. Feb 5, 2025 at 8:34 AM
    #18
    Technologic80

    Technologic80 Sexy Member

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    A good shop will descale it for you first, and it won't be that much money. My local shop (Im in SE Michigan) charges $300 for an initial coat, and they are VERY comprehensive; pull the rubber plugs on doors, liftgate, rockers, drops the spare, gets above any skid plate, gas cap area, hood lip, strut towers, etc. Every re-coat is $200. (I'm giving this info to you for reference so you don't get ripped off) lol. I had mine FF'd right after buying it brand new, so I didn't have to deal with descaling or any rust but my other SUV (an 08 GM product) DID have rust and had to be descaled before FF.

    Bad side: The smell lingers for about a week.
    Good side: Rust lingers too, and I won't have any of that. lol.
     
  19. Feb 5, 2025 at 8:41 AM
    #19
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    I think it’s important for “particular, detail oriented” people (like me) to realize that descaling can be a never ending task if you let it. You can’t even pay someone enough money to do it “perfect”. If you have a frame with established rust, just get the loose stuff, don’t try to make it perfect or you will go crazy. Let the wet-film will do the work.
     
  20. Feb 5, 2025 at 1:33 PM
    #20
    4runner184

    4runner184 [OP] New Member

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    That would be my problem as well haha. I'm sure I'll spend an entire Saturday with wire brush
     
  21. Feb 5, 2025 at 3:46 PM
    #21
    FN2187

    FN2187 Stormtrooper

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    I don't think I saw KDSS lines or sway bars - does it have KDSS? I didn't see what trim it was.

    IF it has KDSS, you would want to take a look under the KDSS skid
     
  22. Feb 5, 2025 at 4:33 PM
    #22
    Turk56

    Turk56 New Member

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    I bought a 2014 Tacoma in 2020 that had been owned by the Canadian government for their motor pool. It only had 36k miles on it. I didn’t inspect the underside. The thing was a rust disaster. It was a constant nightmare to deal with what was going to happen next. I traded it in on a 2019 4runner. If it looks bad it’s probably worse.
     

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