Frame rotted through.. how do I fix

Recently bought this 2000 Toyota 4Runner sr5 4x4 , unfortunately didn’t notice the insane rot and rust that’s going on inside the frame. I can stick my fingers in the holes in the sides of the frame and feel tons of little metal flakes big as a potato chip but thick as a quarter, which are just pieces of my frame rotting off and landing in the bottom. In the pics you can see where it’s rotted through right in front of the transmission crossmember.. yeah .. and a little bit on the drivers side as well , I bought safe-T-caps and Eastwood internal frame spray which is suppose to work on rust , but how do I get all of those other little chunks out without having to gut the frame entirely? And hell no I’m not doing a frame swap in my driveway. Thanks for any responses guys !! I like this thing I wanna see if I can save it

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Welcome from Wisconsin! Rust, the enemy.

 

welcome to the forum....r-r-r-rust ,not!

 

I'm sorry. But from those pictures she is too far gone for rust inhibitors/protectors. Every place you see a problem, there are 3 more hiding. She needs to go to a welding shop and get sections of frame replaced. I see at least one weld about to give out too.

 

I agree with above. Rust through is just too late for any treatment. The section need to be replaced. When that replacement for all rust through section is done, please make sure to do corrosion protection treatment such as wax, undercoat. Since there will be rust all over now other than replacement section, you must treat with corrosion protection wax through out the outside and inside of the frame, wheel well, inside of the bumper, even inside front fender.

 

Yeah that’s the plan , to cut out the rust w an angle grinder and use those safe-T-caps which are cnc cut and welded metal pieces that fit over your frame you weld them in place. The internal rust prevention is for the rest of the frame that isn’t rusted through yet but has surface rust. But idk about that transmission crossmember that most likely needs to be redone entirely. Might go w that Trailgear crossmember since I wanna do links front and rear. I’m just trying to get your guys opinions and possibly any advice you guys got, thank you!

 

Yeah, you needed to explain a bit further like that. I didn't know what safe-T-caps were.

What you propose sounds like a potentially adequate fix.

For the bits and pieces inside the frame rail? Probably not much you can do. If you however use something like a fluid film inside with an applicator wand, you may gunk it up enough that it will slow down the rust.

$145 Fluid Film FFSG Spray Gun Applicator Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-F...gid=pla-902599407585&ref=&adgrpid=96944448914

You will need to inspect it every year of course and don't be alarmed if it just gets worse anyways. It's a game you will ultimately lose, but if you can slow it, you may get by for several seasons.

My son took his rust free 2010 Mazda5 from NC to Mass for school and we had it Fluid Filmed up there. I've heard good things about that stuff. It's not a hard coating which can trap moisture. I would recommend that over anything that you paint on.

Eastwood stuff is usually good. But if it says you need to start with clean metal..I'd probably not use it.

 

damn, that frame/underneath is terminal. it's a goner. I wouldn't trust my life to it. vehicle is d.o.a.

 

Yeaaaah that’s what I’m thinking too.. she’s a goner. I have it listed on the marketplace at the moment I’m going to just try and get rid of it.. how much would a used frame be for one of these things from a scrapyard anyone know? I tried looking online and couldn’t find anything for this old of a truck. Plus the previous owner used a rubberized undercoating which just hides the rust so this thing is fucked top to bottom

 

At minimum, that trans crossmember is dangerously toast. I'd fine the guy who sold it and punch him in the throat for not disclosing it AND I'd really re-educate myself on buying used vehicles and what to look for. You got F'd on this.

 

That is a literal death trap. Short of replacing the entire frame, it’s a loss.

 

I don’t know if this helps but here it is.

 

Just curious, if I may ask, what the two prices indicate?

Obviously, given a choice, I'd go with the lower one, but what do the higher ones indicate? I don't need them at all. No rust on any of my vehicles' frames, I'm just curious.

Thanks!
Pat☺

 

The part numbers seem to dictate R and L for passenger and driver I'd assume. So i bet they sell each side individually or both together for that section of frame.

 

I remember the car nut care guy mentioning a whole frame on 5th Gen was around $7k no idea what the labor would be

 

I am sorry for the bad luck but that frame is too far gone in my opinion. If the rust through spots are this obvious, there must be a lot of areas that are rusted but are not so visible.

 

2010 I purchased February 2021 in SC. Vehicle was from NY. there were various areas around the frame that had rust, I had it "completely undercoated with fluid film. Yesterday I was trimming my rear bumper and came across this! The second two photos are the opposite side (left side of hatch). What are my options here and how concern should I be? I have a local 4x4 shop that welds. This is my daily and I use it for loading it up with camping gear. No off-roading or trailing. Any help is very much appreciated! Pretty bummed out about this.