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Feeeback on wiring

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by ker0uac, Mar 10, 2022.

  1. Mar 10, 2022 at 9:08 AM
    #1
    ker0uac

    ker0uac [OP] New Member

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    It works as intended. Just looking for feedback on placement and organization of wires. Does it look alright? Is it “waterproof” enough?

    I have ditch lights and raptor lights here.

    1954E8AF-3235-4721-95C1-2E9F8D05EEE9.jpg
    42304937-0C93-41AC-A77D-F6FE059B289F.jpg
     
  2. Mar 10, 2022 at 9:32 AM
    #2
    iamincrediboy

    iamincrediboy New Member

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    All looks pretty good Id say. Only thing Id double check is where that wire comes into your engine bay right next to your hood strut from your ditch light - is it going through a grommet? Any sharp edges to be wary of? Is the black wiring the casing of the wire itself or is that encasing both pos/neg wires that have their own insulation? Only asking cause I had to add a grommet to where my ditch light wiring comes in as the only opening was a hole in the metal with no protection for the wires. Also, maybe consider taping the end of your split loom to make sure any water that does happen to get into your engine bay doesnt collect down that wire run?
    Food for thought :cheers:
     
  3. Mar 10, 2022 at 10:17 AM
    #3
    ker0uac

    ker0uac [OP] New Member

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    @iamincrediboy

    Thanks for the tip on the wire loom and the hood strut. I recall plenty of clearance around plastic stuff, but will double check. I am not sure I understand what you were saying about the casing. The entire harness came from vendor encased by black rubber insulation. I just added wireloom to some parts
     
  4. Mar 10, 2022 at 10:47 AM
    #4
    Dillusion

    Dillusion New Member

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    Could be tighter but its more than good enough.
     
  5. Mar 10, 2022 at 10:49 AM
    #5
    iamincrediboy

    iamincrediboy New Member

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    The split loom run that starts right off the wire from the relay that heads back towards your brake master cylinder - it just starts a couple inches back from the heat shrink and is open. If youre extra salty you could wrap that with some extra electrical or F4 tape. If not no worries its a minute issue. For sure not all my split looms are taped either lol
     
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  6. Mar 10, 2022 at 11:20 AM
    #6
    ker0uac

    ker0uac [OP] New Member

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    Is there a problem running wires pressed against that fender wall?

    The wire that goes from the relay to the battery is too short otherwise I'd have placed the relay in between the fuse boxes. Any suggestions on where else to put the relay?

    Also how do I remove this plug so I can shorten the wire? Do I have to break it? I dont even know what it’s called.

    EF336241-786C-4C06-A162-355EE792C872.jpg
     
  7. Mar 10, 2022 at 12:35 PM
    #7
    iamincrediboy

    iamincrediboy New Member

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    Nope no problem with the wire along the fender well. Only thing to pay attention to is that the relay isnt high enough to be in the way of your hood strut when its closed. But I presume youre already set as this isnt a live convo. The relay is fine where it is really. If you absolutely want to there exist mounting plates that mount on that same fender wall and the wheel well area below. Like this https://c4fabrication.com/products/4runner-engine-bay-accessory-tray-driver-side-2010 or like this https://www.amazon.com/Auxiliary-Bracket-Generation-4Runner-2010-2018/dp/B0792GN2DF.

    Are you able to just wind up the excess wire and tuck it away? thats probably easiest. If not and you have to shorten it, cutting the wiring in between the plugs is easiest. To reattach the wires after that either solder or use a some sort of crimp attachment.
     
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  8. Mar 11, 2022 at 11:27 AM
    #8
    ker0uac

    ker0uac [OP] New Member

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    Thank you!
     
  9. Mar 11, 2022 at 11:59 AM
    #9
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    Something to keep and eye on with wires run right on the fender all: Make sure they don't start to wear anywhere along their length. Things is vehicles move around alot, and that and cause wear of the insulation if it's resting against the metal of the fender wall.
    Wrapping the wires in wire loom material, or padding where it comes into contact with metal with thing rubber pads is a real good idea.

    As to extra wire you don't need, yeah, you can cut the excess out as described. If it were me, I would solder and heat shrink where you want to reconnect the wires. It tends to be a stronger, more long-lasting connection. Just me, though. Crimp connections will work. I would still heat shrink them, though.

    Have fun!
    Pat☺
     
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  10. Mar 11, 2022 at 12:36 PM
    #10
    ker0uac

    ker0uac [OP] New Member

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    Yea for sure I might use crimpers when I want to test the installation before soldering. My OCD kicks in and I have to pull the wires apart to test the connection, and crimpers always fail.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2022
    PhantomTweak likes this.

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