DIY repairs for failed clear coat on roof

The clear coat on the roof of my '05 SR5 has failed badly. I cannot afford to repaint my truck at this time, so I would appreciate suggestions for inexpensive DIY repair suggestions. The same thing has happened to several other places on the truck where the surface gets hit with direct sunlight, but I'm mostly concerned about the roof right now. I don't have a carport or garage, so the truck is constantly exposed to the elements.
I was considering using a couple of rattle cans of poly, but I can't bring myself to do it!
Thanks for your suggestions!

 

My roof had the same issue! I ended up taping it off, sanding it down, and rolling a Rustoleum bed-liner on it. $85 total I believe. Note, the picture was taken before this all dried so it kind of looks "splotchy"

 

Mine looks the same. Hood and roof are rekt. I posted same q a while back and it comes to ...

1. How much work you're willing to do to fix it
2. How much money you're willing to spend
3. What quality of repair are you willing to accept?

Tons of videos on YouTube on how to do a DIY garage paint job.

Many guys will do all the prep work themselves, such as removing headlights, roofrack, etc, and then sanding and priming. Then take it to Macco for one of those cheap paint jobs.

Lots of quick fixes such as spray can paint, bed liner spray, etc.

Also an area of note, the window sill on the doors. There is that little edge at the bottom of the window and this edge faces the sky. It catches all kinds of water when it rains and the water just sits on it and doesn't drain away. So the paint looks awful there as well. Poor design imho.

 

That's a nice solution. Might add a bit of protection as well.

 

That Rustoleum solution seems to be the route I will take! Fortunately, the hood is not bad at all, it's just the roof *and* the horizontal flat area on the doors right where it meets the window (as also mentioned above).
What grit(s) sandpaper did you use? Did you use wet sandpaper?

 

Ooh. On the horizontal areas, can you possibly get a small buffer and cut/compound that clear coat? Or is it toast? I mean, you could tape it off and wet sand with a 500 or 1000g and re-shoot some 2k clear on it?

For the sandpaper, I used a 120 grit as they recommend a low grit paper to promote adhesion! Funny results, I noticed a decrease in wind noise, rain noise, and have slid a few things across it without damage. Seems to clean up pretty well with soap/water as well.

 

Have it wrapped. Easy easy

 

Look into PlastiDip if a removeable solution is of interest. Apply it per the instructions (with the requisite prep work) and it will last. I did my lower valance years ago and the only issue was from physical contact on trails, rocks on the road, and so on. It was solid. Might not be the cheapest option though.

 

Wrap it

 

@Sublime Is this the Rustoleum paint you used? Did you add a clear coat as well?
I just noticed four or five very small (about 3mm) rust spots on the roof where the clear coat failed and the paint has worn away, so I need to get those covered immediately. I am anticipating one or more of the roof rack plastic boots will crack when removing them, so I will need to replace those as well. Amazon has a set of four for $30.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GY4MKMG?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

it is! I used the roll on and not the spray. Ended up doing 3x THICK coats. Still holding up well, and cleans relatively easily as well.

 

If you wrap over damaged clear coat be prepared for BUBBLES

 

Did you apply any of the Rust-Oleum Automotive Clear Coat spray afterward? What kind of roller did you use; foam or thick nap?

 

@Sublime Also, did you wet or dry sand for prep? I am thinking I will use my orbital sander with 180, then 220 grit. And for those horizontal lips between the window glass and vertical slope of the door, I will just lightly sand those areas with 220 grit, tape it off really well, then spray them with a coat or two of the Rust-Oleum automotive clear coat.

 

I did not apply clear on top of it. I just used a normal house paint roller (i had one laying around) the microfiber I believe.

I dry sanded with 220 then wiped the entire area with mineral spirits and let it dry before rolling everything on. I was deathly afraid of it not adhering all the way, so I took my time with prep.