Daily Rust Question - 2020 Limited

How bad are we looking, scale of 1-10?

This bad boy spent 5 years in Newfoundland, now in New Brunswick (Canada).

Am I in big trouble? Or worth it to get some undercoating?

Don't plan on towing anything or off-roading, just trying to survive Canadian winters.

 

Its not that bad, a little more than superficial in some spots. Easily taken care of with some Blaster surface shield rust protectant.

 

IMHO, 7.

 

That's what I was afraid of

 

Was gonna get a full underbody rustproofing from a local shop - would that do the same or worse than blaster surface shield?

 

That's a good question. Anything is beneficial, especially it being done professionally since its a pain to do your self without a lift.

But Blaster does have some advantages over others according to some testing.

That said you could ask the shop on there thoughts. But getting it done is key.

 

Get it rustproofed yearly and it should survive another 5 years or more.

 

Depends on the product they use. Rubberized undercoating offered by dealers is a death sentence. The thin-film coatings Rust Check, Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown, etc. are good.

 

If you have a shop do it, make sure they don’t use rubberized or hard coatings. Those will trap water behind the hard coating wherever they chip. It will look great until you realize the frame has dissolved underneath the hard coating.

Best bet is to find a shop that applies “wet-film” coatings like fluid film, wool wax, NH oil coating, or anything oily really (like surface shield. Personally I coated mine with Wool Wax, which is natural lanolin. It’s greasy at first, but it the road grit/trail dust will be absorbed by the lanolin and it slowly oxidizes over time. If you recoat it/touch up every year or two, it turns into a durable crust that is still pliable. It looks like crap, but it does a really good job. Touchups are necessary with any product, since there are spots where weather will erode the coating.

Coating the insides of the crossmembers and frame rails is important as well. Do not let a shop drill holes anywhere to spray product. Body plugs already exist to get inside anywhere. That said spraying inside the rocker panels runs the risk of plugging up the drainage built into them.

 

I hit my undercarriage with an aviation rust preventative called ACF50. I get the bottom of the truck cleaned at the car wash and just spray the stuff on the vulnerable areas. I’ve been using this product for years on our farm equipment and it works very well. Yearly re-application is recommended, but it seems to be long-lasting.
https://skygeek.com/10013.html?msclkid=f4e69469d2f31e635af3fcf3c0dab1af

 

Very interesting stuff. How many cans are needed for the 4Runner?

Edit: I wonder if it would be good for guns.

 

there’s a krown by my place I was gonna check out!

 

Dang, I hope I can make it more than 5 years only

 

Welcome

 

If this is a 7 some guys here have 20s

 

i did the bottom of mine with two aerosol cans and a paint brush to get the recesses. I expect a re-application would only take a single can. I buy the stuff in 6 can cases. It has completely changed my relationship with my tractor’s PTO shaft. Gone are the days of dressing splines and disconnecting stubborn and long-used implements. I do use it on my very old Remington 870 Express…I spray it on a micro-fiber towel and wipe it down. It works well and doesn’t have any visible residue. Great product that was recommended by motorcycling friends in the UK.

 

Thanks @Blackshirt I’m always on the lookout for stuff that does what it says it does. Have you ever heard of Boeshield T-9? I use it on machine table surfaces - you know, like a drill press or bandsaw table. Put it on a table saw table and plywood slides effortlessly. Also on vises and anything that’s bare metal. Even bicycle and motorcycle chains.

 

It's not really that bad. All the people from out west will say that it's terrible, people in the Northeast will say it looks fine.

My 2013 that has spent its whole life in New England looks about that, with heavy rust on the trailer hitch and wiring plug like you have. When I got it 6 years ago I spent some time wire brushing everything off and treating it with fluid. Film, hasn't really gotten worse since. I had it applied professionally the first year, and then I've touched it up myself every year since with spray cans.

The comment about treating it and getting 5 years is very pessimistic, you could do zero to it and still get more than 5 years out of it. If you treat it and stop it where it is, there's no reason why you couldn't get 10+ more years out of it.

 

Fluid Film or Wool Wax.

Your truck does not look bad at all. But, if you have a shop perform the work make sure skid plates and spare tire are removed.

There are many hidden problem areas that need to be addressed, for example, the radiator support/spare tire hoist. I do not know what type of roll stability system the Limited has, but if there is a skid plate covering the distribution module that needs to be coated. A big one many people forget is the fuel tank straps....

I have used ACF 50 for many things as well but never external frame components as it washes off. It is very popular amongst the motorcycle crowd.

 

Boeshield claims it’s waterproof. From their web page:

RUST & CORROSION PREVENTATIVE
BOESHIELD T-9®
The Boeshield T-9® rust preventative spray uses a unique formulation of solvent carrier and paraffin wax coating engineered to penetrate crevices deeply, displace moisture, dissolve minor corrosion, and leave a clean, waxy coating with lasting durability-without using Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons, MEK, or acetone.

With a waterproof formula that withstands both saltwater and freshwater, Boeshield T-9® provides durable, long-lasting lubrication and protection for all metals, including stainless steel, cast iron, brass, copper, and aluminum.Boeshield T-9® dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won’t wash off in rain, puddles or mud.
​

• • Boeshield T-9® dries to a clean, waxy, waterproof film that won’t wash off in rain, puddles or mud.
  • Useful for drying wet parts, electrical motors and circuits, ignitions and connectors.
  • Boeshield T-9® will not harm paint, plastic, fiberglass or vinyl.
  • Waterproof protection and lubrication that endures, month after month, or mile after mile.

 

I used Boeshield on my last 4Runner and it wears off too quick. This time I went with fluid film. I've found Boeshield useful for protecting coilover bodies or the finish on anodized aluminum shock/strut bodies.

 

Welcome from Wisconsin! Just think what it could look like if it had been coated from new. It's a 5-6 on a scale of 10, it can be cleaned up and treated, but it may take some time and a good rust preventative. Good luck.

 

I wouldn't worry about your frame one bit.

Here's my 2010 w/184k, lived in OH its whole life. I took it to a welding shop last summer so he could blast air at the frame and check it. He wasn't able to punch any holes through it. Though it looks rough, it's solid. This is my 4th runner, the (2) 3rd gens I owned, well that's a different story

 

Even that's no so bad. A good amount of Blaster shield or Fluid Film would stop/fix that.

I grew up with solid frame vehicles and it takes quite a bit of rust for it to be an issue.

 

Thanks for the utmost of reassurances lol

that should put some peoples minds at ease

 

In 10 years there will be companies who specialize in 5th gen galvanized frame swaps. For the 5th gen die-hards.

https://www.eastcoastrover.com/82.html

 

But i want a stainless steel frame option.

 

There’s always GoFundMe.

 

Could you imagine??? That would be epic to have that option.

That’s darn near close to flirting with immortality. Immortality never ends up well.