Brake Servicing DIY

For all the senior mechanics and first timers who’ve done their own brakes. How DIY-able is changing out brake pads? I’m expecting needing to change out the pads at 75k based on the pad depths I have now at 65k. Still lots of time to study the procedure. I’ve done all my general maintenance myself up to this point. Mainly fluid changes but I’m pretty handy with wrenches. Any thorough brake service write-ups you’ve seen? Also, I’m under the impression it would be best to change out the rotors as well. Given brake service intervals are infrequent and probably only a handful in the course of my 4R’s life I’m not opposed to replacing those as well if it means I won’t need to get in there for another 75-80k. I hear replacement is way better than doing any resurfacing anyway.

 

This guy makes it looks pretty simple as a DIY job.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9woFLFFdlY&t=119s

 

I would say it’s a matter of your want to do it.

I’ve done a lot of mechanical shit, and there will never be a day I enjoy doing brakes. It never fails that some bullshit pops up that makes it 10x more of a pain in the ass.

but yes, do the rotors as well.

 

Brakes are gravy

 

Super easy. Just pay attention and don't be an idiot. After all, your life depends on them working correctly. And yes, replace pads and rotors.

 

I just did the pads at 65k on our 2019. The rotors looked perfect. You can change them but I saw no need.

 

Super easy.

 

From my experiences with doing brake jobs before the technology of ABS, it's my understanding that it is not recommended that a person squeeze the calipers to force brake fluid back towards the master cylinder. It's got something to do with the electronics and the motor that drives the ABS system.
It's best to crack open the bleeder screw and let the fluid seep out while the caliper is being squeezed to accept the new pads.

 

With the knowledge you have already obtained, You should be fine. It does get a little weird when you get into the electric parking brakes, which the 4Runner doesn't have on your model year.

 

don't play with bleeder screw, no need.
it is ok to squeeze caliper's pistons, just make sure brake fluid does not overflow - it is best paint remover

 

One of the easiest jobs.

 

It is not that strong to damage the paint in a second. It takes some time. If some spilled, just pour some water on it and all will be good. Water is the worst enemy of the brake fluid.

 

Take pictures before you take any parts off. Then take pictures of EVERY part BEFORE you remove or loosen it.

Thank little baby jesus for inventing digital cameras...

 

It's pretty straight forward but as others mentioned, be prepared for the unexpected, especially with 75k on the clock. I did what I thought was going to be a simple brake job on my parents FJ once and it turned out one of the pistons in the caliper was seized necessitating a caliper replacement. Seized caliper pistons are a pretty common occurrence on Toyota trucks for whatever reason.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. As an alternative, if I took this into a shop what’s a reasonable cost for pads and rotors?

Also, I hear stay away from the Toyota “economy” YZZ..? pads and go for the “factory” pads (more $$) for a quieter ride. Anyone have the part numbers for the factory pads handy?

 

Here in Canada I was quoted $840 to just change the rear pads at Toyota dealership. Faking insane, did it myself for $140 for the rear pads only. I actuality stuttered for the first time in my life while on the phone with the service adviser. I actually asked if if it for all 4 corners, he said no. I said that's ridiculous there is no way.

 

Oof. Exactly what I suspected. Guess I better study up on the procedure.

Might be a good idea to do front and rears separately too. I imagine the learning curve will make this an all day thing if doing all four and I don’t want to be rushing.

 

change your rotors

 

It’s pretty simple. Go buy a punch if you don’t have one to use to hammer the pins out that hold the pads in place. They can get really stuck in there. I had to cut them out and get new ones from the dealer during one of my brake changes. No local auto parts stores had them.

 

Since our runners use the brakes in the wheel spin control Trac and A-trac, why wait.
I always do my pads early. The inside of pads can sometimes wear thinner sooner.
Plus my subjective opinion is the pad material is more uniform before the pads gets thin.
I have used original rotors for 240,000 miles with no ill effects. The allowable dimensions for rotors is printed and its easy to confirm you are in spec with a simple measurement.

 

[QUOTE="Also, I hear stay away from the Toyota “economy” YZZ..? pads and go for the “factory” pads (more $$) for a quieter ride. Anyone have the part numbers for the factory pads handy?[/QUOTE]


Front pads: 04465-35330

Rear pads: 04466-60140

 

Very easy. Tons of vids out there using simple hand tools.

 

Haha, this.

First time I did brakes on mine. I thought I could get the front and rear done in one afternoon. Haha, not!

I started on the rear, had an issue getting the rotor off, then had issues with the parking brake springs, then had to replace one of the calipers. Once I got that done, I had issues bleeding it. Ended up taking me a whole weekend.

Few months later I decided to tackle the front. In theory it looks pretty easy. First I had trouble getting the pins out due to corrosion, then I realized I needed to replace both calipers. Had to wait for the GF to get home to use her car to go get calipers.

It's one of those things though, once you do it once, you learn some tricks and the second time is easier. For instance, one of my rear calipers froze up around Christmas, and it barely took me about 2 hours to replace and bleed.

Here's one thing I learned, that is kind of a no-brainer but it was a pain in the neck for me, so I want to pass it on.

To take off the rear rotor, you may need to back off the parking brake shoes. To do that, you need to align a hole in the rotor with a certain spot on the parking brake. To do that you need to be in neutral. So once you get the vehicle jacked up, chalk the front wheels, and put it in neutral. If You already have a disassembled, and realize that you need to shift it in neutral, when you step on the brake to shift it, you'll shoot the Piston right out of the caliper. Ask me how I know LOL.

If you DO forget to put it in neutral before disassembling, you can put the transfer case into neutral without touching the brake.

Another tip is to do one side at a time, so you have the other side as a reference point as to how everything goes back together. The pads are fairly self-explanatory, but the clips can be a little confusing.

When I did the front, a few months later the pads started rattling. Turns out the retainer springs had broken. To fix that, I bought an extra bag of hardware, and I doubled up on the spring clips on the front pads. There are holes and the top and bottom for the spring clips, so I used both of them.

I would even go so far as to take photos of the clip orientation before you take it apart.

Also, if the pads don't come with it, just buy the new hardware kit with the new pins and springs. Reusing them is not worth the trouble.

Oh, if you do need to replace front calipers, buy the correct size flare nut wrench if you don't already have one. You don't want to risk rounding off the brake line fitting.

As far as the rotors, yes change them. They're cheap enough and you know you're starting with good ones. Next time around, if they don't have any deep score marks, consider just changing the pads. It makes the job easier as you don't have to take the calipers off.

 

Guess that’s the “learning curve”. Thanks for all the useful tips and info. I’ll definitely revisit all the advice here when it’s time for that change.

 

Front pads: 04465-35330

Rear pads: 04466-60140[/QUOTE]
Thanks a bunch!

 

Also, saw a video recommending this compression tool, which I’ll get. All about making things as easy as can be having the right / specialized tools for the job.

 

I just use a generic C clamp.

 

Same, pressing against the old pad. Never had an issue with that method on numerous vehicles going back 25 years.

 

I also use C-clamp and old pad to push pistons back. I always open bleeder to expell the old brake fluid. If you suction out the brake reservoir first, and refill with new, then keep it filled as you replace each wheels pads, you will have refreshed the whole system.

 

Haven’t done it yet on my 2023, I figure I still have some time. I did do it on my last two vehicles (both Hondas) and a friends Highlander.

Honestly it was just time consuming, and moments where I was like “how the heck do I get this thing out”? Toyota was more pain in the butt than Honda.

I am at a stage in life where I value my time more, and will gladly pay someone to maintain my cars. If it’s easy enough like filters I’ll do it. But for anything more it’s going to the mechanic. Let him break knuckles and I will gladly pay him $1000, assuming that’s what it costs. With my skills I’ll need 4 hours of my time. $1000 for 4 hours is totally worth it for me.