Brake Pad Changes and Bleed Valves

Continuing to “study-up” on doing an upcoming brake pad and rotor change DIY. For the seasoned mechanics out there, do you need to open the bleed valves when compressing the pistons? I would rather not mess with the fluid at all but I’m seeing folks open them because of the ABS and other folks not. Car Care Nut whom I’m more likely to believe says it is unnecessary to open the hydraulic circuit at all but he was working on another car. Just want to make sure it is true for our 4Rs as well.

Also, any good online places to source genuine OEM pads (factory replacements) with all accompanying hardware and rotors at a reasonable price? Saw the rears on Amazon but can’t seem to find fronts.

Thanks in advance

 

You don't need to open the bleeders to push the pistons in. However, you should open the brake fluid cap and make sure it doesn't overflow as you push the pistons in. If you need to, you can remove some fluid with a syringe or other means from the brake fluid reservoir.

All that being said, your vehicle is 5 years old. You can test the brake fluid for water content but it may be in your interest to do a full brake fluid flush once you finish replacing the pads/ rotors.

 

Good idea on the reservoir cap. The fluid was flushed last July at the dealer before a trip with lots of sustained descending so thinking with the pads worn down some then and the fluid pretty much topped out now there will be some overflow. So I’ll syringe out a little fluid, open the cap and throw a rag around the cap opening.

 

Not when you compress the pistons. As mentioned, open the reservoir cap and make sure you’re not topped off or else it will overflow.

 

Another question. No issues doing the fronts one weekend and the rears the following weekend? Thinking it’ll be slow going with the learning curve so probably too ambitious to think I can do both ends in the same day.

 

I did the opposite without issues. Seems like the rears wear faster for me.

 

You can definitely do the fronts one weekend and rears another weekend

 

Yup, my rears are wearing 2-3mm faster than the fronts. I would’ve thought the opposite with most of the braking power from the front and the weight of the engine

 

Shop Napa Auto Parts for Akebono pads. Akebono makes Toyota’s OEM pads. They’ll usually have both the ASP and ACT set of pads in stock. The ASP have a bit more bite, but both are great replacement pads.

 

I suggest opening the bleeder valve when you push the pistons back. There usually is an accumulation of condensation water in the caliper (it is the lowest part) especially if brake fluid is not regularly changed. So opening bleeder gets that gunk out of your brake system and not forced backward thru the ABS system.
My procedure is to first suction out the brake fluid reservoir almost to the bottom-then fill 1/2 and suction it again. Then fill with unopened bottle of new fresh fluid.
As you do each caliper you push out old fluid thru bleeder. Its replacement fluid will be fresher fluid from the newly filled reservoir.
After all pads are in place, and you bleed each caliper ( in proper sequence) and keep the reservoir full of fresh fluid you will have a nicely serviced brake system-new pads and new fluid.
The decision to change rotors is another whole topic. Like discussing tires & shocks.
I personally stay with the Toyota parts-but I do not live in the rust belt where winter roads get salted.

 

I’m pretty sure I’ll foul up a more complex process so I’m leaning on not messing with the bleeders since a dealer brake flush with new fluid was done less than a year ago (11 mo.). Trying to keep the first pass at these simple. I agree 100% on staying w/ OE parts though. Figure what came on the truck worked fine without issue for 5+ years. That’s the least I can hope for 2nd time around.

 

You can order oem online..save a few bucks Be sure to slowly compress pistons back into caliper, and do one side at a time!,do not remove both calipers at the same time. Compress using old pad, from center of pistons to keep pressure even during compression. And as you said oem parts. I have never bled calipers on a pad swap.

 

Bad idea. ScAmazon is rife with counterfeit parts. Shop from somewhere reputable. RockAuto, etc. Akebono and Advics are the OEM.

 

I've replaced the rotors/pads twice on my 2018 now and have never opened the bleeder valve.

I thought the rears were harder.....just because of the way you need to align all the little clips on the caliper brackets and grease them all up without getting grease on the pads. Just my opinion.

Wanderlost Overland has a great step by step on how to do it.

https://youtu.be/SNEJ0Efvv3M?si=SZETK2hsxAiLOTh-

 

The. Car Care Nut shop is 5 minutes from my house. He really is a nice guy.

 

Same for me. I’ve been running mine fairly heavy for the last year or so. Today I just realize I need another set of pads on the rear. First factory rear set of pads lasted 50k miles. My second set was OE, but their budget line. This time I only got a little over 30k miles! Rotors still look pristine though. Probably gonna get the more expensive OE pads this time around.

Anywho, it’s not a problem to change the fronts or backs at different times. No need to crack open bleed valve…just crack open the resevoir under the hood to allow air pressure to escape as the resevoir refills when you push the pistons back in. If the fluid is at the top line when you start, you may want to take some fluid out before pushing in caliper pistons to prevent overflowing it.

 

Haha. I’ve learned lots from that guy’s channel. Pretty awesome to see his channel grow out of a home garage into a rad shop w/ multiple lifts and all.

 

Thanks. This is one I haven’t watched. And I’ll be hitting the rears first.

 

I watched that, and it's a great video. He explains things in a way most will understand. Best feature of their videos is there is none of that shaky one-handed recording that usually shows nothing, or the back of an arm or a hand.

 

I would go OEM pads and rotors.
Take your time cleaning the caliper bracket. Use brake grease on where pads touch and a bit on caliper and braket... I also use liquid moly anti squeak on back of pads... The OEM pads come with double shims....

No squeak and great brakes...

No need to open bleed to push pistons but you can like mentioned above...
Probably less chance of damaging the master cylinder but no one does it...not sure if service manual mentions it.. I know on my classic benz they say to open bleeder valve before pushing pistons..

 

It’s pretty easy. Take a picture before you begin so you check how the clips and springs go back on. The toughest part is removing the pins on the front calipers. They can seize in place and be difficult to get out. Buy a small punch that you can use to hammer them out.