Anyone not get flashing dash lights when using OBD jumper trans method?

I used the OBD pin 4-13 jumper method today to check Trans temp during a level check. It worked fine using the “D” indication light to indicate proper temp range. D is NOT visible as it heats up, solid D when in proper range, flashing D when too hot. Every video out there shows many flashing instrument panel lights with jumper installed. I didn’t get ANY in my 2023 ORP. My 2016 Tacoma had the flashing lights but otherwise worked the same. Is this abnormal or is the software different? I’m not too worried about it since the indications provided the needed info. But I was expecting the temp check mode to have the flashing lights?

 

I just watched “The Car Care Nut” video before seeing your question, I hope this helps.

https://youtu.be/NUAuGmDGntY

 

I believe his video is on a pre-2021. Mine doesn’t even have the same terminals in the ODB port as this video. I assume that’s part of the discrepancy.

Thanks to OP for updated pin numbers. I’ll have to try this out and get back to you.

 

I wish he had gone into more detail on using a scan tool in the video. He just said that is one method...

 

Yes I have watched it in detail before I tried. And I do not get the flashing lights. I also noticed some OBD ports in various videos are mounted with the wide edge of the trapezoidal shape upwards while some are downward. Mine is upwards and matches the Toyota procedure. Since the are only 8 pins across each row (top and bottom) it doesn’t matter as long as you count (from left to right) 4 over top row, 5 over bottom row. You get the same pins either way. I was expecting to get the flashing lights like I did on my 2016 Tacoma, but did not. However it still worked. I have the Toyota procedure which I will attach. It does not mention anything about flashing lights. But on my 2016 Tacoma I got them. Also the procedure says move selector from N to D every 1.5 seconds for 6 seconds. That is 4 cycles of N-D. On one occasion it did not ever give me the solid D. But if you get the solid D, you then place it in Park. At that point the D will vanish. You then remove jumper. Assuming the transmission was cool (less than 115 F) the D will appear solid at 115 F. You check level thru overflow tube while solid D. If you let the vehicle idle the trans fluid heats up. At 130 F the D will flash and it is now to hot to check. In my garage and a cool transmission, it took 16 minutes to get to 130 F and the D started flashing. I have run this procedure 4 times and 3 of them got the D to appear cycling the lever from N-D rather quickly. I just move it fast (1 cycle every 1.5 secs) until the D appears. It may take 15 cycles. It is hard to exactly do N-D every 1.5 seconds for 6 seconds. If the computer is accurately measuring the time delays, that likely explains why it may take a couple try’s to get into “temp check mode”.

 

Thanks for this thread @rmiked. I was sure that my obd connector was missing wires from those terminals, but when I tried to take a picture to show you, the camera picked up the terminals inside (I guess I had been looking from a bad angle, I feel like an idiot). I’m gonna have to try this tonight.

 

OBD Fusion app, bluetooth OBD adapter, done.

 

Which adaptor did you use? I tried the $100 job from Oreilly’s (I thought others were using cheap Amazon versions), and it never would connect.

 

$26 Veepeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth OBD II Scanner Auto Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW?ie=UTF8