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Agent_Outside: Adventures in a 4Runner Limited

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010+)' started by Agent_Outside, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. Nov 14, 2020 at 10:20 PM
    #511
    wmdtech

    wmdtech Send MOD Money!!

    Joined:
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    Nate
    Mid TN
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    275/70r17 KO2 Eibach Stage 1 JBA UCAs
    Huge congrats brother!
     
    Agent_Outside [OP] likes this.
  2. Nov 16, 2020 at 4:39 AM
    #512
    CowboyTaco

    CowboyTaco New Member

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    Seriously. Congrats!
     
    Agent_Outside [OP] likes this.
  3. Nov 16, 2020 at 6:13 AM
    #513
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    2011 T4R Limited
    Thanks guys
     
  4. Nov 19, 2020 at 8:48 PM
    #514
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    Parts are really starting to pile up!

    My son said he wanted to replace the clock spring with me. He wants to use his little camera to take pictures of each step how to do it, then print them out, and staple them all together so we can send a copy to everyone in the world. That way everyone will know how to do it should the need arise lol

    804C9ACA-F2A2-4529-88A8-4CB67194E259.jpg
     
    DJD33, A&P, POOLGUY and 1 other person like this.
  5. Nov 19, 2020 at 10:25 PM
    #515
    wmdtech

    wmdtech Send MOD Money!!

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    Nate
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    18 TRD ORP
    275/70r17 KO2 Eibach Stage 1 JBA UCAs
    I’ll get you my mailing address :D
     
  6. Nov 22, 2020 at 1:35 PM
    #516
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    Here it goes...

    Clockspring replacement as seen through the eyes of a 4 year old, documented with a kid's digital camera.


    Remove the plastic covers on both sides of the steering wheel
    [​IMG]

    Heres a close up so you can see it better
    [​IMG]

    They pop right out with a pocket screwdriver
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Unbolt the airbag
    [​IMG]

    Unplug the 2 stage ignitors
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Remove this steering wheel
    [​IMG]

    Use a pick to score the steering wheel and the steering column shaft to aid with proper alignment during reassembly
    [​IMG]

    After you mark them remove the center nut
    [​IMG]

    Unplug the connectors and wiggle the steering wheel off.
    [​IMG]

    Next is the plastic trim pieces
    [​IMG]

    Remove the screws
    [​IMG]

    Split the clamshell
    [​IMG]

    The clockspring is now fully exposed
    [​IMG]

    Unplug the harnesses
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Release the tabs and remove the clock spring
    [​IMG]

    It's out, halfway there!
    [​IMG]
     
    POOLGUY likes this.
  7. Nov 22, 2020 at 1:44 PM
    #517
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    Install the new clockspring and plug in all the connectors while carefully listening for the click on each connection
    [​IMG]

    Pull the grenade pin that's installed in the new part to keep it from spinning during shipping
    [​IMG]

    Feed the wires through and reinstall the steering wheel.
    [​IMG]

    Make sure to keep the grenade pin forever because it's soooo cool, try to refrain from stabbing the touchscreen radio display with it
    [​IMG]

    Tighten the steering wheel
    [​IMG]

    Ready to install the airbag and column trim
    [​IMG]

    Plug in the bag
    [​IMG]

    Then get distracted by the garage heater and wander off when its almost finished
    [​IMG]

    But make sure you’re back in time to give the horn its first test
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2020
    CowboyTaco, POOLGUY and A&P like this.
  8. Nov 23, 2020 at 2:09 PM
    #518
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    There’s a couple fittings on my 4Runner that are at kinda speed angles and I seem to get a couple pumps of grease on the fitting before I get any in the fitting trying to get the angle just right. I finally spent the money on Lock N Lube fitting for my grease gun.... I feel stupid for waiting so long to get this. It’s works 100% as advertised. 12 fittings between the JBA arms and all the factory points and not a drop of grease outside of the zero fittings.

    https://youtu.be/8-ce_tFXOVc
     
  9. Nov 24, 2020 at 8:50 AM
    #519
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    Another thing I should have done a long time ago but didn’t want to commit the money to - transmission fillers!

    With the 4Runner and the Highlander both running the same transmission fluid and the same differential fluid I finally bought 2 fillers for home. The capacity is kinda small but the convenience is definitely worth it.

    One is dedicated to WS trans fluid and one is dedicated to 75W90 GL5 gear oil. You take the orange cap off. Fill the reservoir with a funnel. Pump the bottle up to 10-15 psi. Pick a hose attachment - the 90 degree hook is perfect for diffs. Open the valve and sit back as it pushes all the fluid through. No trying to line up and squeeze bottles or paying a bunch of money for boutique fluid in bags, it’s quick, it’s easy, and there’s no mess!

    Filling the front diff on the 4Runner
    [​IMG]

    Knocking out the trans service on the Highlander
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2020
    masamitsu likes this.
  10. Nov 24, 2020 at 3:27 PM
    #520
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    Busy couple days, with the help of my 4 year old on his thanksgiving break we’ve accomplished the following on the 4Runner:
    -Replaced OEM front brake pad anti-rattle shims and clips
    -Cleaned and lubed the front brakes
    -Installed Toytec front stainless steel brake lines
    -Replaced OEM rear pads pad anti-rattle shims and slides
    -Cleaned and lubed the rear brakes
    -Adjusted parking brake tension
    -Brake fluid flush
    -Rear differential service
    -Center differential service
    -Front differential service
    -Full transmission service (including making a legit detailed how-to)
    -Clock spring replacement
    -Tire rotation

    Still a bit left to go, I still have spark plugs and a major cooling system refresh, then just deep clean and degrease the whole underbody before I put the skids back and wait for my bumper to eventually show up. I’m not confident that I’ll be able to get the 4Runner in the garage anymore once there’s a swing arm with a spare tire on it out back so trying to knock out as much as possible now. It can be “challenging” having a helper sometimes but as long as he’s interested and wanting to learn and help and use tools, I’ll never exclude him in the name of efficiency.
     
    wmdtech and nimby like this.
  11. Nov 24, 2020 at 4:14 PM
    #521
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    Eibach Adj Shocks; 285/70/R17
    How did you adjust the parking break tension?

    I've read there are a couple of different ways to do it.
     
  12. Nov 24, 2020 at 4:22 PM
    #522
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    I did a quick video on it a while back.
    https://youtu.be/it4BMOrM41g
     
  13. Nov 24, 2020 at 7:09 PM
    #523
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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  14. Nov 24, 2020 at 7:34 PM
    #524
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    Eibach Adj Shocks; 285/70/R17
    Awesome! Thanks!

    Will this reduce the distance the e-brake pedal travels?
     
  15. Nov 24, 2020 at 7:42 PM
    #525
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    Yes, the pedal travel is long when it’s poorly adjusted. It’s a chain reaction. The looser the adjustment, the further the shoes have to move before getting tight to the drum, which means the further the cable needs to be pulled, which means the further the pedal has to travel. Tightening up the adjustment will tighten up all of it.
     
    nimby likes this.
  16. Nov 24, 2020 at 7:43 PM
    #526
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    Eibach Adj Shocks; 285/70/R17
    Excellent! Thanks again!
     
  17. Nov 24, 2020 at 7:44 PM
    #527
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    :cheers:
     
  18. Nov 28, 2020 at 8:00 AM
    #528
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside [OP] New Member

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    I had a busy day yesterday.

    I replaced the water pump, thermostat with water inlet, thermostat housing, all the seals and gaskets, hydraulic fan clutch, serp belt, and spark plugs. ANd I found some more work to do in the process. While the front of the engine was disassembled I went through checking all the pulleys and accessories, I found the bearing in the belt tensioner pulley feels pretty grainy and makes a little bit of noise. The rest are all smooth and quiet, so I'll have to replace that pulley. When I pulled the plugs the driver's side rearmost pug has a very slight amount of oil getting in above the plug. It not saturating the coil or anything like that, so there's no major rush to repair it but I'll need to pull the valve covers and replace the spark plug tube seals. The final item I'll need to address is the C4 battery tray. The firewall mount cracked, that's something I'll have to address in the spring when the snow starts to melt before trails reopen, that pretty disappointing considering C4 claims it will hold a group 31 and I'm not running nearly that much weight on it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This was pretty funny, Toyota's repair manual says you need to remove the alternator and the A/C compressor so you can remove the belt tensioner assembly from the side of the block because there's a water pump bolt behind it... or you can just not do any of that. Pull and hold the tension back and just take the bolt out while the pulley is out of the way. You can remove a bunch of shit or you can just hold tension on a wrench for 20 seconds.
    [​IMG]
     
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