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5VZ-FE internal coolant leak

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by gonekayaking, Sep 1, 2025 at 12:53 PM.

  1. Sep 1, 2025 at 12:53 PM
    #1
    gonekayaking

    gonekayaking [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Monday
    Member:
    #48798
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2002 $runner LTD
    Hello folks!
    Read and learnt a lot on this forum although never posted anything but I'm stumped at the moment and would appreciate some advice. Apologies for a long thread but it's been a lot going on about it.
    I own 2002 4R LTD since 2005 with currently 375K kms on it. She's been a trusted friend for 20 years and never let me down until recent incident when I got stranded on the road far from home. Vehicle quit at full speed-pulled code P340 camshaft sensor. Didn't have much choice but to have her towed to the nearest auto shop whose verdict was that timing belt got loose due to hydraulic belt tensioner failure. They replaced timing belt, belt tensioner, crank and camshaft sensors but when I returned to pick it up the vehicle had a very rough idle and was showing multiple misfiring codes. Suspected timing belt alignment issue and asked mechanic to look into it. He later declared that timing was perfect but spark plugs were old so he replaced them as well as high tension wires. Engine was still running rough at idle but once over 1100 RPM it was tolerable so I figured I could drive home as leaving vehicle with this shop wasn't of much use. Drive home was just over 100 km, mostly highway.
    When finally I got myself down to rechecking their timing belt job it turned out that passenger side camshaft was almost 180 degrees out (you might remember Timmy the Toolman video where he explains how it could happen and that appears what happened at that shop). So thought I -just another timing belt job to make it right but that's when whole bloody predicament started. Engine was running smooth after the timing belt realignment but exhaust was pumping thick white smoke and dripping coolant like mad (that wasn't happening when I picked the vehicle). Smoke was so bad I couldn't even get the engine warmed up to operational temperature without risking fire department attendance. Upon inspection found coolant in No.5 cylinder. Did compression test and leak down test- everything was in acceptable range (compression was on low side at 145 psi on No.1 cyl.(piston rings passing during leak down test) but still acceptable). Great! Looks like head gasket job now. Well, I'm not an auto mechanic but have worked on ships as an engineer over 30 years and had my share of diesel engine rebuilds so my mechanical skills should probably qualify as passable. Also I have Toyota factory service manual and pretty much all the right tools to get the job done. Still, I'd be hesitant to embark on this project on my own but came across excellent video tutorial by Tim the Toolman re:cracked head rebuild and thought with all these resources I should be able to do the job. Purchased a service kit from Rock Auto (Victor Reinz MLS gaskets) and went for it. Cylinder heads were pressure tested and resurfaced at a local shop with pretty solid reputation. No warpage found either on block or heads-checked surfaces using machinist edge and feeler gauge-all within 0.05 mm. Cylinder liners look good as new-maximum wear 0.07 mm (35% of allowed by service manual). Put everything back together torquing fasteners to Toyota service manual specs. (didn't replace cyl.head bolts though which in hindsight looks like an oversight), started the engine- same result. Removed spark plugs on warm engine and checked with borescope while turning engine over manually- found coolant in No.2 and No.4 cylinders this time Curiously there's no dropping of coolant level in the radiator (warmed up engine almost to middle of temperature gauge range but perhaps not enough to open thermostat?) but there's definitely a ton of coolant in the exhaust. Read that throttle body could have a coolant leak so I bypassed it connecting in and out hoses-no difference. Also read that someone in the past made a mistake connecting coolant hose to air connection on the throttle body so it was feeding coolant to intake manifold but it doesn't seem possible on 2022 5VZ engine as the hoses are of different diameter so coolant hose wouldn't fit on air connection.
    Crankcase oil looks clean
    I'm chasing my tail with this business now and thought I might as well ask for input from more experienced heads. Is it possible that cylinder block is leaking or more likely that I botched head gasket job?
    Thanks in advance.
     

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