5th gen tweeter replacement issue

Hi Everyone,
After reading on this forum that one could gain a pretty good bump in sound quality and even volume by replacing the cheap stock paper tweeter with 3.5 inch Infinity 2-ways, I decided to go for it.
To reduce the possibility of ordering the wrong thing I purchased parts from the Amazon links in the Trail 4Runner article on tweeter replacement. The problem is instead of the REF-3022cfx speaker linked in the article I was sent the REF-3032cfx speakers.
My pre-thread-posting research indicates the 3022 speaker was chosen because it has an internal bass blocker so there is no need to wire a capacitor into the speaker harness. I can find no info whether the 3032 speaker has an internal bass blocker or if it has the same bolt hole pattern as the 3022 speaker to match the speaker mounting adapter linked in the article. Do I have to install a capacitor into the linked Red Wolf wiring adapter? Will the 3032 speaker bolt up to the linked speaker mounting adapter? The 3022 speaker appears to be pretty old and may no longer be easy to find.
This may be much ado about nothing and all I have to do is install what I have and rock out, but I don't want to find out that's not the case by seeing an arc and a puff of smoke.
Any help is much appreciated.

 

From my understanding, it's the same speaker with just the updated part number. Everything appears to be identical.
If that's the case, You would need to add a capacitor on the positive wire.

 

Thanks for your reply. The T4R article says some speakers need the capacitor wired into the adapter harness but some speakers have a bass blocker internally so they don't require one to be added to the wire. The 3022 has the internal bass blocker and if they're the same speaker I'm guessing the 3032 shouldn't need one either. Saves me a tiny bit of work. I appreciate the info.

 

Picture online of the REF-3032cfx appears to show it has a capacitor wired to it already.

 

Perfect! Thanks for helping an (obviously) non-tech guy. Two weeks until trout season and I have an all day drive each way. Better tunes will definitely help!

 

I'll be watching for your review. From all accounts, this is a worthwhile upgrade.

 

Please keep us posted on whether the 3032's indeed have the bass blocker already installed and if the bolt holes fit.

 

That small built in capacitor is probably protecting the tweeter, but not the 3” midrange. You’re probably gonna need a capacitor to block 150-200hz and below.

 

Well I have everything installed. The bracket holes are in the right place, but the c-clip holes in the bracket are small and needed to be drilled out a bit, 1/4" drill bit did the trick. I needed slightly longer c-clip bolts to make up for the bracket's thickness.
The sound is definitely better, and I got a significant increase in volume. Well worth the cost and effort. Gravel's comment makes me wonder if I need to take it apart and add a capacitor. The sound (even bass) seems to be all coming from the dashboard now. I had to put my ear to the door speaker to make sure they were working. But I have no idea how to calculate which value of capacitor to get. Or how to install the capacitor, although it looks like a pretty straightforward solder and shrink wrap. If I can figure out this last step it may sound even better.
I also found old info about this swap that showed the guy removing the crossovers from the stock speaker and wiring them into the wiring harness as well. Is that necessary? No other tutorials showed this step.
I did this upgrade because it looked pretty plug and play. It appears there may be a few devils in the details. And I ain't no car audio tech.

 

Caps are available here:

$7 MECCANIXITY 4Pcs 1.5uf Frequency Divider Capacitor, 250V Axial Audio Speaker Crossover MKP Film Capacitor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0FB82K1S6?smid=A1NR50YASSZD11&th=1

And here’s an impedance vs frequency chart from DIYMA. Most car audio speakers are 4 ohm, most home audio are 8 ohm, but there are exceptions..

For 3 1/2” coaxials, high pass somewhere between 150-300hz is a good starting point. The cap goes in the + side of the circuit.

 

Thanks a lot, I appreciate the help.
One little quibble still concerns. If I'm reading this chart correctly I need
220uF Cap to crossover @150hz
260uF Cap to crossover @200hz (?)
200uF Cap to crossover @250 hz
They are 4Ohm speakers
Seems like a non linear progression in values.
The capacitors you kindly linked on Amazon range from 0.68uf-47uf. Are uF and uf (I can't find the funky long tailed u symbol used on the chart on my keyboard) different? Like a difference between microfarads and picofarads? I'm guessing i should use the 2.2 uf in the Amazon ad, or a 2.7uf? I apologize for my lack of electrical knowledge. This looked like plug in a harness and bolt in a speaker. I'm afraid of making a mistake and roasting wires a week before vacation.

 

As a non-expert in electronics, I’m assuming (dangerously?)that the various versions of the U are interchangeable. Mostly because the capacitors are advertised as crossover devices.

As for the non linear progression, I’m thinking it’s not as exact science as we might expect. Impedance changes substantially over the drivers range, so I don’t think you’d see the cutoff point at exactly the frequency that the math would suggest. But if you’re within 50hz one way or the other, the speaker should be relatively happy.

 

If the speaker has a "bass blocker"- a high pass filter- it prevents low(er) frequencies from getting to the speaker. This will protect both the small woofer and tweeter from getting those low frequencies since they are wired together. If the tweeter needed further filtering, it would be handled internally. If not, the only way to protect both speakers, independently, would be if they were wired separately.

According to Crutchfield the small capacitor is a high pass filter (e.g. bass blocker). This should be all you need.

 

Have bass blockers coming from Amazon.

 

According to Crutchfield, your speaker already has them. You don't need to add anything (See bolded/ underlined line below).... although I doubt it would hurt anything if you did.

 

Just following up. I made this more difficult than necessary because I was confused about adding a bass blocker, but one isn't necessary. The appropriate bass blocker is included in the speaker as per HuskyMike. After a 1,500 mile road trip I can say this was an easy and worthwhile upgrade. Bass, midrange and treble were all significantly better. I also got a solid bump in volume. Sound and audio are subjective and individual, but I can't imagine anyone doing this and regretting it. If I had it to do over again, I would do it over again. Just get the bracket, harness and speaker linked in the T4R article, drill out the c-clip bracket holes with a 1/4" bit and get slightly longer bolts for the c-clip holes to compensate for the thickness of the bracket. Then slap that puppy together and rock out! Thanks to all who helped out.