5th Gen Stereo Upgrade recommendations...

Does anyone have any recommendations with upgrading your factory stereo? I want to upgrade my head unit (adding an amp and replacing speakers) while retaining factory functions and steering wheel controls and supports an Android-based system with Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto. Hoping to hear if it's doable and the pros and cons (if any) if I move forward with this, and any helpful info you guys/gals can offer. Thanks in advance...

 

Crutchfield or Trail Grid Pro have many options for what you want. TGP is the most complete option. I would stay away from the off brand units and Pioneer.

I have a OEM Audio + dual sub reference system and a Pioneer floating screen unit that I need to dump for a Sony replacement I have.

 

I upgraded my speakers and added an amp to my 4Runner. It was a HUGE difference in sound quality. I kept the factory head unit for a few reasons:

1) I actually like the look of it and like the screen layout options. Keeping it OEM gives it a stealth look. You wouldn't know I upgraded unless you heard it or if I told you.
2) The OEM headunit works great. My truck is so new I didn't want to pay for a new stereo when the existing one works great.
3) I found out that I would actually lose a few features if I went after market. I forget which ones, but I think some of the "next track" or vehicle settings were either missing or hidden in another area.

It's very doable. I know the 2018 head unit has a smaller display screen than my 2023. I think my screen is large enough. Maybe consider upgrading to a 2020+ OEM Toyota headunit instead of an aftermarket?

 

Thanks buddy! I'll definitely post what I end up with...

 

I'm with @Borracho Loco, I kept the factory HU and installed a Kenwood amp, speakers and sub woofer. I like my AC/DC to ZZ Top and that set up is more than adequate. The volume is louder than most people can handle, and still sounds crisp. Best sounding car audio I have ever owned. The sub woofer is on a plug so I can remove it if needed.


EDIT: I have an '18 SR5-P

 

Thanks Stoney! Looks like the stock head unit has been working fine for a few of you. I assumed I'd have to upgrade to added an amp, etc? I'm definitely going with the JL Audio Stealth Box (10TW3) for the sub. still deciding on the other components.

 

You don't have to add an amp. I added an 8 speaker Kicker kit that I bought from TrailGrid Pro; first. It did sound a lot better than stock. Not "awesome", but very good. I decided to add an amp a few weeks later and HOLY shit, the sound quality was awesome.

The Kicker speakers started to give off very deep bass and very crisp highs. I do not have a dedicated sub; mainly because the stealth boxes are SO FUCKING EXPENSIVE. I think the 8 speaker kit gives off just enough bass. But if I had to do it over again, I would have bought the OEM-Audio kit with one sub-amp combo. I think it was about $2200?

 

I went with Infinity Reference speakers and I'm also in team keep the factory head unit.

Going to be adding an amp and sub. FYI for anyone looking for an under-seat amp+sub combo: TrailGridPro is coming out with another 4Runner under-seat amp+sub kit in Q1 of 2026.

 

You can add carply to the factory unit. I did the Alpine plug and play sub and amp with infinity speakers. Major upgrade over the cheep factory speakers. When i found a 2022 head unit for a halfway decent price, i tossed it in. The later HU's are a major upgrade over the 2018's but can be pricey.

 

all depends on your budget.i went down the rabbit hole of dsp, amps, widebands, midbass, sound treatment, sub

 

Thanks! Didn't know you can add carplay to the OEM Head Unit?

 

Heck ya you can! This isn't the only option, but it's a video showing you how to add one of the options:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyxUKtUpx1E

 

Beat sonic has a kit but it's expensive. I recall cheaper options out there but have no experience with either.

 

And then do sound deadening on top of that. More to spend. This never ends with these rigs.

 

And new struts for the hatch back after the added weight.

 

Yeah! Do sound deadening next. You can follow the rabbit down that hole like @Thacrow did, and RIP OUT THE ENTIRE interior; just to lay down some sound deadening. I remember reading his thead about the work he put in.

 

I am guilty again - I am doing it "the deadneing thing" next week. Will report as usual, I hope I don't regret it.

 

The only thing I regret is not putting in twice as much sound deadening. Its really not much work. Theres very little holding the interior in. Goes in and out pretty easily. Its a little work for a drastically better sounding ride with or without the stereo on. Had I not done it shit would rattle with the new stereo and the sound of rattling would defeat the purpose of everything. I only wish I had made a how to video for interior removal and install. Theres not a lot out there.

I did almost 3 of the bulk dynamat packs. I should have done 5.

Buy the below fasteners. Its easy to lose the yellow ones on the b pillars. Its easy to break the white ones.

Switch Bezel Clip Compatible with Toyota Lexus 90467-10203 4Runner Camry Corolla Highlander Land Cruiser RAV4 Sienna Tundra CT200h GS350 GS450h IS250 LS460 etc

https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-90467-10203-4Runner-Corolla-Highlander/dp/B0CXJ6P2QR

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=toyota+door+panel+clips

Weird the second link isn't linking the page. Its the first one:

"
Rexka 20pcs Door Trim Panel Retainers Clips Compatible with Lexus Toyota 90467-A0005 Camry, FJ Cruiser, High Lander, RAV4, 4-Runner ES 350, GX 470, is 250, is 350, is F, LS 460 & LS 600HL"

 

Also.......

I dont know what all youre doing but...

Assuming youre running all new speaker wires:

Replacing the hatch speakers probably isn't worth it. I did. Really just to say I did. You could just not use hatch speakers. But if you are replacing that wire buy some wire pulling lube for the rear gasket otherwise it might be close to impossible to pull wire. I also did the backup cam so added a bit more wire gping through that thing.

The rear doors: theres a gromet plug thing to connect all door wiring, including the speakers. I followed the speaker wire back to this thing and then attached my speaker wire right to this plug utilizing a couple inches of the stock speaker wire. Otherwise it would have been difficult to get speaker wire to the back doors.

 

I love showing people pictures of that. Especially back when I did it because it was still a very new vehicle.

 

Show us the link of that thread and lets see what you did!

 

It’s been a while since I messed with car audio, and even then I only dabbled. Also, I have no idea if there have been technical improvememts in speakers over the years. So, I’m curious, what does one stand to lose with keeping the factory wiring to the speakers? Are there speaker specifications that pair better with stock wiring so I wouldn’t have to rewire?

@Borracho Loco and @Stoney Ranger , what amps did you end up going with? Are there small form factor options that give the sound a little lift? I’m not looking for ground pounding volume.

I’ve been thinking of improving my audio a bit, and since I’ve found out in the far past that stock head units often have pretty good signal already, I’d like to keep my stock head unit. But I also like messing with my levels…do you guys have or know of any equalizers that can be wired in between the head unit and amp? I don’t even remember, do amps come with equalizers?

 

No need to upgrade stock wire unless youre going above 75RMS. Above that youre pushing more power than stock wire should have so you should upgrade it. I did mine just to do it. Im at 75 RMS.

I only have a rudimentary understanding of car audio but you need a LOC (line out converter) that takes the speaker wire and converts it to a signal that amps can use. You can get LOCs with some adjustments and then also amps will come with adjustments too.

Beyond that you can get a digital signal processor, DSP, which digitally can change all your levels and time delay speakers and clean up tones per speaker depending on the setup. Doing this you need a mic and software to put test noise through your system and adjust accordingly.

Edit: amps can also come with speaker level input (your stock speaker so the stock speaker wire goes right into the amp) "regular" amp input is low power RCA cables. With speaker level input you do not need a LOC. For cars that have equalizer built into the stock head unit you can go this route and adjust your levels. It will sound better with a decent aftermarket head unit.

 

It starts most of the way down on page 1 of my build thread
https://www.4runners.com/threads/crows-2021-orp-super-white.32685/

 

I went with this

KICKER Amplifier and Amp Kit Package of 2 Items - CX Series 360W RMS Class AB 4-Channel Amplifier and Complete 8AWG Wiring Kit

amp. I didn't buy it from Amazon though, because Bestbuy had the exact same amp in stock. It was installed under the front passenger seat. You can't see it and it doesn't give off a lot of heat.

Here's the thread that I was a part of showing my audio config (another user did the same thing as I did): https://www.4runners.com/threads/trail-grid-pro-kicker-8-speaker-bundle.35128/

I kept the stock wiring for the speakers & the stock head unit (the headunit has an EQ built in to it - no need for aftermarket). I only replaced the speakers and added an amp. The amp made a huge difference in sound.

 

I didn't have to use a LOC! The tech at Bestbuy who installed the amp for me told me that I didn't need one. I had planned on buying one, and when he saw it, he said it wasn't necessary.

 

Im guessing your amp has speaker level inputs. The amp on the thread you linked has speaker level inputs.

And yes you dont need a LOC if your amp has this. It has a LOC built in. You just need to make sure you have an amp with a LOC.

 

Everything I did was plug and play, just needed the speaker to factory harness connectors. The amp/sub that I use isn't the largest but it sure woke things up.

 

What amp or what kit?