5th Gen Front Airlocker Install

Hey All,

I just placed a with ECGS for a re-gear and ARB front locker. I have the factory e-locker in the rear.

Had a couple questions regarding locker wiring.

I’m thinking it makes the most sense to replace the factory rear locker switch with a dual front/rear switch. Is it possible to wire the front to show on the instrument cluster when engaged the same as the rear locker? Can I just tap one of those wires? Anyone have any thoughts or other suggestions on wiring the switch?

 

I wouldn't put them together. Get a dedicated switch and leave them alone altogether. Keep it simple.

 

Sorry, I may not have explained that clearly.

I mean a dual button switch like this.
I absolutely intend to have them activated separately from each other. Trying to save a switch spot, and have a generally clean/factory looking install.

https://ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-small-dual-push-switch-for-toyota-front-rear-lock-symbol/

The real question is — can I have the front locker illuminated on the instrument cluster the same as the factory rear? I worry about it being left on accidentally.

 

I've looked into this myself. I have an SR5 and plan on adding a rear locker eventually. Long story short...my cluster is from a TRD model so it has the rear locker indicator. Obviously the SR5 can't take advantage of that.

I have all wiring diagrams from the TIS, and after thoroughly reviewing them it seems that you can't tap into any specific wires. The indicator lights do not all have individual on/off wires. The signals are all sent over a few wires straight from the different ECU's. The cluster decodes them and changes light output. However, I did look into the actual cluster. It appears that I should be able to solder some small wires on the light itself and tap into another light, and then add a switch. That should illuminate the light. I haven't tested yet, but I have an extra cluster and plan to attempt soon. Also, is it understandable that you may be uncomfortable going that deep into it. Would definitely use relays though to isolate it all.

Not professional advice or anything** Hopefully it helps in some way!

 

It’s definitely got me thinking. With a factory locker (TRD Offroad) is it wrong to think I can just tap the same wire that’s on the factory switch?

 

I may be wrong, but if you mean the rear locker switch I don't think so. The system takes that signal and waits for the rear locker to engage completely (or until sensors detect it). The 4WD ECU then sends a signal to the cluster to change the output. That's why the light changes from blinking to solid. The wire you mentioned tapping doesn't affect the light in the cluster. It is an interesting system. I would recommend using the TIS if you are really serious about checking it out. A 2-day pass is $25. I wish Toyota had a front diff light on the dash, I prefer the OEM look for things like that.

 

Just spitballing here, but there seems to be several switch blanks available in my Off Road for an additional switch which would certainly look factory. And, if concerned about leaving the locker on, aren't there switches for the ARB that are illuminated when on, and not when the locker is switched off? Not an expert here by any means, just throwing things out there...

It sounds like trying to find a wiring solution to showing the front locker on the dash would be complicated, and lead to other issues, but that's just me.

 

Welcome

 

2 things:

No aftermarket switch is going to plug into the factory wiring. You will have to hack it up to make it work.

Using the same indicator seems odd. it will look like you have the rear locker engaged when you have the front locker engaged and also would require hacking away at the factory wiring.

 

Having driven a vehicle with a front locker, trust me when I say you won’t forget that it’s on. The steering wheel fights you twice as hard when it’s on as with 4WD alone. Besides, properly used the front locker is only sparingly applied. Turn on-traverse the obstacle-turn off.

[mumble mumble … IFS … front locker … bad idea … mumble mumble]

 

I really want to install a Truetrac in the rear. A fantastic limited slip.

 

This. You will without doubt be well aware the front is engaged. You also need to be sure you are in 4wd before engaging and probably best do so sitting virtually still.
I’d be more afraid someone would engage the front locker while at speed and in 2wd. With the open axle disconnect in the front you would instantly go from spinning spiders to trying to bring the entire carrier, ring, pinion and drive shaft up to cruise rpm.

 

^This is not a big deal actually, esp. since there's no torque transmitted through the front driveline.

 

Push that button and find out.

 

Good replies — I was thinking the indicator light was dumber than it is. Very true that you would know it’s on. I do think that others activating it when they shouldn’t is my primary concern, though minimal. Perhaps a keyed switch is a good idea — I have to order a switch regardless unless I want to cut another hole in my dash.

 

If you get a front locker, it deserves it’s own switch in its own spot. From what I’ve read, the ARB air lockers engage immediatly. I’m not sure if they have some sort of lock-out built in to prevent accidental actuation that could cause damage. If not, having a guarded switch might not be a bad idea. It doesn’t look stock, but that’s ok for a 4runner with a front locker.

 

I think there are 4 wheel speed sensors interconnected to the VSC, TRAC and A-Track electronic traction control systems. Do you plan to disable them and the ADD front 4WD controls?
Seems there might be conflicts?

 

To me, a front locking diff. in theory seems like a good idea for those times that it would be used to make forward progress before a winch line needs to be hooked up.

But, this brings up the strength of the other stock components. Does one bring spare stock steering parts or just buy and install aftermarket HD parts. Should one replace stock axle/cv shafts with better axles, if available, or carry a stock pair with them.
Stock ball joints are easy to pack but the tools to replace them can be bulky. Does one pack a spare rack and hoses?

Which always brings me back to 1986 year model, why did ToMoCo get rid of the solid axle? F'in beancounters.

 

I’m pretty sure it was to improve the ride, and not so much for pecuniary reasons.

 

I respectfully disagree. The ride is fine if a person knowingly goes into buying a leaf sprung vehicle.
And I think that their improvement went in the wrong direction. They could have designed a 5-link system like the rear of the T4R.
I would take simplicity and reliability over comfort any day in an off-highway situation.

With companies that big, it's always about money. The final say.

 

Independent front suspension, especially the way Toyota implemented it with upper and lower control arms (as opposed to Macpherson strut like in Subarus) is more expensive to manufacture than solid axle. Toyota did it to improve ride and handling and to match the competition. Be thankful Toyota didn't go to independent rear suspension to match the 2005+ Pathfinder and 2005+ Grand Cherokee.

If it's all about cost cutting, Toyota would've axed the roll-down tailgate glass decades ago

 

SFA is highly overrated like manuals and small derzuls. If I was on rocks then sure SFA but that type of wheeling is boring.

 

I own several solid front axle vehicles. They are great once you are in the really rough stuff. Not one of them handles anywhere near as well as a vehicle with independent front suspension when on good smooth roads, especially at speed.

 

What is a derzuls ?

 

Derzul hilux surf brah! All that low end torque for the mall but slower than a 3 banger Geo Metro.

 

I think he meant to say “dissle”. I have to agree…diesels have the potential for extra torque and range, but when they’re designing these little diesels, they can design those benefits away when applied to the vehicle. It’s always a safer bet to to have engines that have had a long manufacture life.

 

It's a heavy, weak, expensive engine with no engine braking in the mountains. At least that was my experience with a 1KD in a 150-series Land Cruiser in Costa Rica. A lot of turbo whistle without much movement, and need to ride the brakes on the way down Though I understand newer ones have an exhaust brake to mitigate the latter deficiency.

 

Apparently not.

 

In many ways, it comes down to, profit before people.

 

You’re spot on here and my (not too) long term plan is to upgrade the steering rack, tie rods, and CVs. Spindle is already reinforced.