2021 toyota 4runner sr5 rack and pinion bushings replacement

Does anyone have any technical information on replacing the bushings in the rack and pinion on my 4Runner?

I have had some noises from the front end and I have uneven wear on my front tires so I took my 4Runner to a front end shop because the dealership couldn't ever figure out the issue. The front end shop said that my upper control arm bushings are shot and my rack and pinion bushings are shot. I don't drive off-road, only on the highway.


Toyota does not sell the bushings separate from the rack and pinion assembly. My husband is going to replace my control arm bushings but we are trying to avoid having to replace the entire rack and pinion.

** EDIT ** Lower control arm bushings

 

Any other shops or another dealership you can take it to for another evaluation? I just can't imagine that the steering rack bushings, or the LCA bushings, on a 2 year old 4Runner would be worn enough to require replacement. Especially if just driven on the highway.

 

Your correct. For OEM replacement of control arms (upper/lower) and other assemblies you have to buy/replace the whole assembly.

Your talking serious $$. I would get Toyota corporate involved and find a competent dealership.

 

The issue is, I am out of warranty at this point even though I took it to the dealership MULTIPLE times and they couldn't ever figure anything out.

 

You need to buy the Energy Suspension rack & pinion bushings, but they're poly based and make a lot of noise - super tough though. If you want silence, just buy the Whiteline Bushing then. If my UCA needs new ones, I'd use that as an excuse to buy aftermarket UCAs. Off the top of my head, I don't know if they make them for our 5th gens, but those are the 2 companies to research.

 

Do you have any idea of the extent of replacing them ourselves? My husband owns a diesel mechanic shop so he would be the one doing the repairs.

 

It's not super hard but you do need to remove the rack and probably have a press to put the new ones in!

 

The shop that we took it to is the best front end shop where we live. Taking it to another dealership seems counterproductive as my 4Runner is out of warranty.

 

We have had issues with the front end of the car and haven't ever had the dealership be able to identify the front end issues. So we took it to Beaumont Frame and front end, and I was suprised at the diagnosis myself so my husband went down and visually saw the failures while it was on the alignment rack, moving back and forth. You can see the lower control arm bushings moving when the brakes are applied affecting the toe in. @DoggettToyota

 

Hi I have a 2022, and I’m dealing with the same issue however I’m in shock that r/p bushings are shot?
Especially just being told that it’s because of the thud you hear once you turn the wheel all the way to the end of the turning radius- that was the tech’s reasoning.

 

Wow, I'm curious as to what caused them to wear so quickly.

So just as a piece of info... My 4R is lifted at about 3.5". After making adjustments, I went for an alignment at a dealership near to my house, which shall remain nameless (something to the sort of Tejas), and not my normal one. For you folks on the north east side of Houston, this is the one that underwent the name change in June. LOL. Problem is, it seems like the tech wasn't skilled in doing an alignment properly. Ever since that alignment, I would get random clunks, especially when the control arm was wet. Coming out of the car wash would allow me to hear the noise over bumps, turns, etc... It was quite embarrassing.

Needless to say, I took it back to them three times to check, and each time, they told me it was ok. I threw in quite a bit of $$$ chasing the issue... new swaybar links, swaybar relocation kit, new radiator brace (the ones under the skid), etc.. etc... Two days later, the clunk would come back.

Finally, I went to my normal dealership, the one ending in Haas in Spring, and had them do the alignment. They did the ole' "toe and go". I took it back, I mentioned that I need them to ZERO out the camber and caster, and start from there. Guess what, no more clunk. The caster was so far off on the left and right, I guess it was causing weird suspension (and LCA) geometry movements. I am happy to say, I'm going on about 2 months without a single clunk...

Your vehicle's age shouldn't warrant a new LCA or bushings already. Worth a shot. Of course, your mileage may vary...


Cheers,

Sean

 

Wow! That sounds like quite a headache.

I haven’t gone down the rabbit hole of having camber and caster looked at which could very well be the culprit. I’m going to let a family member who used to build rally cars take a look, if it’s a suspension or steering issue, I’m confident he could spot it. it just seemed like a red flag that a 2.5 yr old 4R with under 50k miles would have an issue like this.
thank you for your story and input! I’m making a list of things to take a look at and checking them off one by one. This will definitely go on my list!!

 

Absolutely mate! Keep us posted and best of luck!

Cheers,

Sean

 

Did you ever figure out what the clunk was? I'm experiencing the same problem and have replaced nearly my whole front end at this point. I have a 2018 Off Road. We're now wondering if it's the rack and pinion bushings solely by process of elimination. It clunks whenever I stop then turn my wheel and similarly whenever I stop to back up and turn (e.g. when I back into a parking stall - it'll clunk when I crank the wheel when driving forward, when clunk when I'm in reverse and turning into the spot).

I'm fairly certain I can feel the clunk in the steering wheel too.

Wondering if we should try the alignment option or bushings option first.

 

I have been thinking about that and it may be designed that way to keep the rack from absorbing tire deflection in bumps and rough. It's better the bushings absorb the impact. The mounting has changed compared to older model 4wd bushings. Just a thought. They have engineered it that way for some reason. It is Toyota

 

I had something very much like this, it went away after tightening the front lower control arm bolts.

 

Check your sway bar links and bushings. If the sway bar is trying to move, it will make some clunk sounds if it's flexing. Like a boing, boing. Jack front up and look as someone is working the wheel. Check the ball joints and tie rod ends. Tighten rear sway bar bushings. To me, it's a 4wd and when you hit something with big tires, you get feedback on a rack more than a box. It is IFS and not like a straight axle 4wd. Are bump stops in place on the LCAs? Energy suspension makes some polyurethane bushings, but grease them. These won't move or rot.