Looking at some performance upgrades

I have a 08 v6 in fantastic condition. 130,000 miles and no mechanical issues. It was bone stock until I recently bought it. i added 33s and leveling kit.
i have been considering tuning it. Has anyone had any success in tuning the v6? How did you do it?

also, there was little frame rust, but the exhaust system seems like its taken a beating, and its corroded. I was considering upgrading, I dont want anything too loud, but i want something that sounds deep and will hold up. Any suggestions there?

 

Connect with an OTT tuner in your area and get a tune flashed to your ECM: https://overlandtailor.com/team-members/

Pick your poison with exhaust. As long as it isn't a Carven (which hurts my ear drums) it will be fairly mild in comparison.

 

1GR-FEs like 91 octane (Toyota engines do in general). It also boosts fuel efficiency slightly, somewhat offsetting the higher cost.

 

The tune will do you good. On the exhaust, try the magnaBlow others are crap. If you want more torque and control regearing will do. All in all...welcome this will put a hole in your wallet.

 

I’m not disputing this necessarily but will say it’s the first time I’ve heard it in 11 years of owning my ‘07 and reading 4R boards every day. My V6 is 300 miles from 275K and has never had anything over 87 in her life.

I’ve considered a tune and people say they’re great but I haven’t found anybody with a 4th Gen who’s had one and can describe specific impressions or differences.

Lastly, and again based on many years of following this stuff, don’t waste your money on cold air intakes or other supposed performance improvers. The 1GR-FE pretty much is what it is - a solid, reliable engine that drinks fuel and will last forever with proper care. If there were affordable options offering significant, documented advantages, everybody here would have them.

 

I wish we did more 4G 4Runners, they have fantastic potential!

Their ECU shares the identical calibration data as the 2G 4.0L Tacoma which is a very popular platform for us, with TONS of feedback out there. You'll find the results just as impressive on the 4G 4Runner as the 2G Tacoma. We've got a VERY solid calibration that is dialed in for this platform, and I wish we could get it on more 4Gs.

Here's just a snipit of stuff you can read through, it's all 2G related but everything regarding the tuning/results is 100% transferable to the 4G:

Our Main thread on TacomaWorld - https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/30719946/
Main Supercharger thread on Tacomaworld - https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/30594376/
HPTuners thread (lots of tech talk) - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hp-tuners-for-2005-2015.600793/
Our 1GR-FE Dyno Testing Page (lots of testing/data) - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1gr-fe-single-vvti-dyno-testing-by-ott.759616/

 

Thanks for the info. Sent you a PM.

 

I've heard if you order that 100,000 mile sticker from Toyota you gain +5hp ..........

 

The dyno thread JustDSM posted shows the gains on 91.

Toyota rated the '07-'09 FJ Cruisers at 239 hp and 278 lb-ft on 91 octane. That's +3 hp and +13 lb-ft over the 4R and Tacoma numbers on 87 octane. This is SAE certified gains at the flywheel published by Toyota, though not noticeable from seat of the pants.

 

I can state that the calibration differences (or rather lack of them) put the difference in output between the two platforms primarily due to the packaging/tuning constraints of the exhaust.

The calibration data is identical between them and the Tacoma.

 

Fair enough, but I’d argue 3hp and 13 ft lbs is irrelevant to the average driver vs. the long-term additional cost.

 

Toyota did a good job with the factory exhaust. It's well-designed and flows well

I would argue the average driver prefers to complain about fuel prices rather than take steps to reduce fuel consumption.

 

Forced induction, and I'd go turbo.

Even the 2UZ variant needs help because it's tuned the same way it is for their trucks.

I wouldn't expect much from bolt-ons and a tune.

 

I was going to get the OTT tune on my v8, but the local tuner stated that with any aftermarket mods they wont tune. Also couldn't convince me that I would really notice any difference with the tune over just the pedal controller on the v8's.... for the v6 it seems like its a different story though, as far as feeling more benefit.

 

Not sure how you came to the conclusion you have, or what communication breakdown happened, but for the record: We don't tune vehicles that have emissions equipment deleted. Aftermarket modifications aren't a problem, however, so long as all factory-installed and federally mandated systems are intact and operational.

The 2UZ-FE V8 is quite impressive in it's own right in terms of driveability improvement (especially the transmission calibration), much like the 1GR-FE.

 

I guess you missed the part where I stated the I was talking to the local OTT tuner in my area, your second statement confirms that there isnt much gain in the transmission department. He told me he would not do the tune if I was to get AM headers.. which is a common upgrade to the originals that often end up leaking on the v8 models. instead of tuning with the headers and seeing significant gains. bummer.

 

With 91 octane and a K&N drop-in filter, my 4Runner will one-wheel-peel in 2WD all day long with A-TRAC/VSC shut off. It doesn't need a tune; it needs a Detroit Truetrac limited slip before anything else.

 

There's now someone you can ask - me. And I was wrong.

 

How much did it cost you?

 

OTT comped the tune. In a post, I mentioned I hadn’t considered one because I couldn’t find anyone with firsthand experience on a 4th Gen 4Runner. @JustDSM said he wished they did more of them. I reached out, and we agreed that collaborating would be a win-win if I shared the outcome and became that person people could ask. He was on board with me being candid about the pros and cons—and I have been. OTT retailer Jeff of Relentless Tuning kindly did the tune, and here we are.

If I’d paid out of pocket, it would’ve been around ~$450, depending on your setup and location.

 

Do you want more power on highway or climbing grades?
Or is your need around town/city driving increase?
Have you tried manual downshifting when not on highway, manual shifting will allow keeping your engine RPMs higher with big improvement in response. On my SR5 I shift from "D" to S4.

 

That works fine, but OTT makes it work better.

 

Valid point re: shifting, but I drove manual transmissions for almost 20 years - 8 in a Saturn, 11 in an Xterra. I’m done shifting unless it’s for trail purposes or engine braking.

 

My use of S4 is effective as it blocks 5 th gear and its low RPM all the time. But it auto shifts gears 1-4 and seems to stay in the lower gears longer if my right foot asks. It also modifies the torque converter flex lock up.
So I get quicker throttle (right foot) responce in S4 and it seems the VSC is less sensitive. Like when driving onto roadway from a parking lot, and I am powering up thru the curb/gutter dip, I do not get flat power for a second or two like when my runner is in "D".
I have the A750 tranny, other years & models may have different trannys. This chart I found is interesting.