Anyone know of a good lawn tick spray?

It’s the worst I’ve seen it and we are in June. I put down tick pellets in the grass and vegetation but it isn’t working. Anyone know of a good spray I can use?

 

Fipronil
Bifenethrin

Both of those will kill ticks, fleas, creepy crawlies, insects, ants, spiders ect.
The Fipronil works longer but its typically more expensive.

 

Just ordered the Bifenethrin from Amazon. How often do I need to reapply? Thank you so much

 

We don't have tons of ticks here fortunately.

But this came to mind.

https://ads.palmettostatearmory.com...MIh9i-upqLjgMVnwjvAh1i0gDDEAQYAiABEgIs3vD_BwE

 

Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy a hose end sprayer of insecticide, specifically bifenthrin. You will most likely have to do a treatment, wait a few days (due to larval hatch), then do another treatment. Wait a week or so and rinse and repeat. Make sure to spray the natural areas as they typically don’t live in short grass.

 

once a month in the bad times
depending on the percentage of active ingredient would determine how much chemical to add to your water
any idea on how much area you are trying to treat?
What kind of sprayer do you have?
The more info the better.

pyrethroids are the ones you gotta do over and over like a week apart, Bifen and Fipronil last a lot longer than pyrethroids. Fipronil will go 6 months to a year depending on rainfall.

 

TY again. We have a 1/2 acre property. I was going to get like an a hose attachment to spray it. The ticks are horrible. I have taken two off my wife this week alone. The dogs take their tick medication but we are finding dead ones on them. Been here 27 years and it’s never been this bad

 

True, but remember the bifenthrin you get at Lowe’s (through triazicide or other) isn’t the same as you get from a professional product such as Talstar P. If you already have an infestation I would still apply and then selectively reapply fairly soon. Just remember to keep people and pets out until you are certain it has dried.

 

Here is the one I just ordered

 

Napalm.

 

What does it do to humans....Who cares?

I actually like ticks its a sign of a healthy enviroment.

 

I am a huge fan of fipronil. It's the active ingredient in those little Hartz Flea and tick tubes you put on dogs. However, you can get it in higher concentrations and spray around the yard. Kills just about every bug that comes in contact with it.

That being said, fleas and ticks don't like cedar. We would line the dog yard with about a 2ft wide border of cedar mulch and that helped a lot. Also kept the yard less muddy from them running the fence line and destroying the grass we tried to grow

 

Careful ordering such. The one I bought didn't work at all on insects.
Direct hit... no instant kill.
Mixed 8oz into 2 gallon sprayer.

Best of luck.

 

Bifenethrin is best.

 

Um Lyme disease

 

I get annoyed when people use poison to keep out rodents and chemicals for nuisance insects. The downstream effects are way too egregious to other animals, the environment and the food chain.

You could try a garlic spray if such concerns bother you.

I live on the end of a marshy river so ticks are just a fact of life. I find them on me and the dog almost every day. Check your clothes when you get inside and crush then flush any you find. Keep the grass mowed.

Lyme, Babesiosis, Anaplasmosis, Alpha-gal Syndrome , Powassan, etc are all nasty diseases that can ravage your body and ruin quality of life. But it’s still not worth going scorched earth just to remove one or 2 insects out of hundreds or possibly thousands.

 

Keep the grasses on your property mowed at all times. Especially coming out of winter and into the spring months. This will drastically reduce the number of ticks on your property. They will still be on the periphery, but if you can keep the dogs on your property and out of the weeds, you'll see a lot less of them.

You can also try spraying your shoes with Permethrin.

 

Bifenthrin isn't an instant kill. But it is definitely effective. When I was spraying my yard for mosquitos, it would provide at least a month of protection from them assuming I didn't get rain within 24 hours of application or repeated heavy rains after. I stopped spraying though because it's a broad insecticide and will eventually kill anything that lands in the sprayed zone. I have a garden now and can't sacrifice the beneficial pollinators.

And just by the way, 8 oz. in two gallons of water is 4 times the recommended maximum ratio.

 

Asking here since it's about yard care. What's the best way to get rid of poison ivy?
I got something called RM43 and sprayed once. Waiting to see if it clears anything.
I am looking for total vegetation clear and making the ground completely dead to grow anything in that area.

 

I've never had a huge poison ivy problem, but I did have one or two big vines that grew up a tree. The way I removed it was to first remove any "daughters" on the ground by hand. Then I cut the vines and "painted" both cut ends with glyphosate (Round Up). Within a week or so the vines were dead and I simply removed them from the tree and dug up as much of the vine from the ground I could. The poison ivy hasn't been back in over a year since.

Obviously, make sure you are well protected head-to-toe when working with PI by hand. Even when PI is dead, the vines themselves contain urushiol. Wear old clothes, thick rubber gloves, and expect to throw them out when done. And work quickly. As long as you wash off any possible exposed body sites with a good oil emulsifying soap (Dawn) within two hours of exposure, you won't have a reaction. Tools can be washed off with soapy water (again, Dawn). And never never never attempt to burn any vines. If you inhale PI smoke it could legitimately kill you.

I didn't take a total kill approach so I can't help you there.

 

Pulling by hand is not an option. It's on the other side of my wrought iron fence. There is a barbed wire there and some trees and it's spreading everywhere. It's actually in an abandoned part of my back door neighbors property and he does not care shit.
I want to spray something right under my fence and next to it so it does not spread on my fence and nothing grows around my fence. I will even spray the barbed wire if I have to but I don't care if it grows on the barbed wire because it's about 16 inches away from my fence.
And you are right I touched PI not knowing what it was and man its not good.

 

Looks like RM43 is mostly glyphosate with another longer acting herbicide. It should do the trick but may take a week or two for the effects to be seen. It may become an annual maintenance thing though. I have a friend whose neighbor's lot had a bunch of PI growing and he had to treat basically yearly in order to keep it from spreading to his yard.

I'm getting itchy just thinking about poison ivy.

 

I actually love poinson Ivy. I find a patch and lay up in it with the weed eater. Those pretty green leaves. I might make a salad.

 

I must have touched it at least 20 times not knowing what it was. The thorns did prick me but 2 days later it was not good.
I don't mind doing it every 6 months if this RM43 works. I have heard good things about this product. But patience is a virtue very few have.

 

Poison Ivy doesn't have thorns.

More than likely it's mixed in with some berry bushes. Blackberries perhaps.

 

Really!! Let me click a picture of what I have. I am sure I have PI also because 2 weed removal people said that's PI.

 

I think we're looking at 2 different vines.

There appears to be poison ivy (bottom left of 1st picture).....the plant with a 3-leaf cluster.

The other one is some thorny vine (leaves are more concentrated in the top right of 1st picture). I'm not sure what it is but it appears to have 3 lobes. Not 3 separate leaves.

Obviously they can be intertwined with one another. Some of the urushiol from the poison ivy can rub off on the other plants (to an extent).

 

Bifenthrin and Fipronil are not instant kill chemicals, they are not like a wasp spray that has petroleum distillates that actually fry the wasp nervous system. Bifen and fipronil are slower acting and take hours to really start to kill stuff, but they keep stuff gone a long time.

 

Not the home depot bifen, its only like 2% or something pretty low. When you start getting the higher concentrations the ounces per acre drops considerably. I think the higher dosage you have to have a license for is about 30ish% and i think its about 10ounces per acre off memory.

RM43 from tractor supply in the maroon jug is a very small amount of imazapyr and glyphosphate. The imazapyr is Arsenal, a bareground chemical, i think the imazapyr in RM43 is very low like 1% maybe, which is far far below what you need to actually get a "bareground" effect but that stuff is the right ticket you just need a lot of it. You can buy Arsenal and Polaris which are imazapyr in concentrate without a license, it is a chemical used in tank farms, railroads, power stations ect. At 32-48 ounces per acre it will bareground gravel and dirt for 6-12 months depending on rain and soil type and organic matter in the soil. In smaller doses 8-12 ounces per acre it kills woody plants, vines, trees, brush very well, it will "sting" bermuda grass at these rates but the bermuda is moderatly tolerant to small doses.

 

Yes you have poison ivy as well as species of "greenbrier" which has the thorns, as mentioned it has only one leaf which in this species is heart shaped, whereas the poison ivy has 3 separate leaves, treat it all the same since they are intertwined just be careful of the thorns.