Thinking About Regearing

Hello everyone,

I’ve been on-and-off debating about regearing my ORP to 4.56 gears. I researched the topic, and the general consensus is that everyone who’s done it wishes they did it sooner.

I currently run E load factory sized tires (I spend a lot of time driving off pavement, near work sights, so the trade off of a heavier tire is worth it to me). Other than that I have a Gobi roof rack.

I will have a winch and LFD hybrid bumper mounted in the future, and have decided my next set of tires will be 255/80.

I do add a lot of extra cargo weight when driving out to the dessert, and the 4Runner is pretty sluggish to begin with.

So with all that being said, I know I don’t *need* a regear. But if it helps make the driving experience better and helps with putting less strain on the engine and drive train (the biggest benefit IMO), then I’d do it.

Now here are my questions:

1) What do I need to know in terms of maintenance and durability of the new gears? I would be going with ECGS, but I see there’s a couple of brands (of the gears themselves) to pick from. Is Nitro the best? Do they last as long as OEM?

2) Assuming I go with the 4.56 regear, are there any other components of the 4Runner that should be upgraded/replaced? I’m only referring to necessary changes (For example you NEED extended brake lines with a long travel suspension). So what else do I need with the regear to not induce any new stress on other parts of the car

3) Would I cause any problems or damage by regearing before moving to 33” tires?

4) The dumbest question: I see people say regearing isn’t recommended if you drive a lot of highway miles. I do. I drive a lot between TX and NC. Would I be causing any damage to the engine/drivetrain taking road trips with the regear?

I know RPMs would go up, but can someone break this down Barney style as to what type of accelerated wear this does?

Last additional note: I live reasonably close to ECGS, so I could probably have them do the install. I would hope that this would take out the variable of whether I screw it up or a shop doesn’t do it right.

Please let me know if there’s good reasons not to go through with it.

Edit: I am aware of the break-in procedure for ECGS gears. One question I forgot to add:

I see ECGS mentions sending the code back to them and getting your deposit back. Does this mean they are swapping in another core (not original to your car) and then giving yours to the next person? Any issues with this? I’m trying to understand how this part works.

 

I am running 4.56 and still on stock 265s. Weight added with armor/skids/sliders roof rack and bumpers/winch all became too much for me. I am not aware of any additional wear and tear. Increasing frequency of gear oil changes is my only maintenance change. Higher rpm at highway is to be expected. The higher rpm is also what allows me to now stay in 5th gear not gear hunting every crosswind or incline. EcGS is a simple choice if convenient. Any of the brands are fine but installer is important part. Not to start an oil debate but moving up a grade to 30wt makes sense for me with higher rpm and not having the cold to worry about. The old "track day" move up a grade.

I have never found anyone that regrets it. I was running high rpm gear hunting dropping to 4 already. Gears installed correctly should last as long as oem which is forever for most people. Regear takes strain off of the transmission. I am confident the engine can take thr higher rpm and compensate with 30wt.

Cost and burning more fuel are the only reasons not to.

 

Hello Weezol
I have an 18 off-road, it is a couple hundred pounds over GVRW. It came from the factory with a 4:11 ratio and when I spoke with experts (which I am not one) they told me that the difference between 4:11 and 4:56 was not large enough to justify the expense. I ended up going with 4:88 Nitro’s and I do not regret the change. I drive like an old man because I am one. I do like the difference when climbing technical trails as for the highway we all (almost all) drive more on-road than off-road. The higher RPM’s are not a concern to me as I said before I don’t drive overly fast on-road. I know a master mechanic very well and he told me not to worry about the difference in RPM’s between the gearing change. I paid a company to do the work as I do not enjoy turning a wrench and I do not have the skill-set to do this work. The company that did the work was able to verify, through the VIN, what gearing my 18 had in it already. No other special maintenance is needed in comparison to factory gears is called for from what I was told. I also have 33 tires, the main reason I re-geared is the weight of my 4Runner.
Hope this helps, Rich

 

I re-geared to 4.56 for the same reasons above with 33's. I did the ECGS core exchange with the 3rd and clam shell and installed myself. One of the best mods I have done, no more gear hunting. With my other mods I can actually get 21-22mpg at 65mph and around town with the ac on I am averaging 16 and not being a grandpa driving.

 

No accelerated wear, but don't underestimate the higher rpms since you have only a 5-speed transmission. Stock axle ratio is 3.73. If you're at 2500 rpm doing 75 mph now, you'll be at 2500 x 4.56/3.73 = 3100 rpm with 4.56.

 

For reference rpm with 4.56. I try not to drive faster than 80 with this brick. Rpm fine for my needs and increased fuel burn. Using the cruise control is an option again. Being able to accelerate up an incline without dropping into 4 also.

I would have gone ECGS if I didn't have a 4Runner expert that does regears routinely.

 

I run 456 from ECGS. If you dont intent to go ever higher than 33s then stay with 456. If you see maybe running 34s and higher then do 488s. If you are close to ECGS in NC, just go there and get it done. That will be well spent money and you would get warranty etc by them. I almost sent them my rig but I am too far in TX. Good luck. Tons of stuff on the forum on regearing.

 

I’m heavy on E rated 255/80/17s. I regeared to 4.88:1 and I have zero regrets. I’m happy I went 4.88 over 4.56.

 

Just an FYI. Your 4runner came with 3.73 gears from factory. Every 4runner model comes with the same gear ratio.

 

Well according to the company that specializes in gearing they checked the VIN to verify what gearing it had installed. I do not know for certain, there are numerous sites that say only 3:73 there are other sites that say that a towing package or the off-road model with lockers come with different gearing. I really don’t care. The company that did the work is highly rated and has been around for decades and came recommended highly by personal friends who know more about vehicles than I ever will. I find it hard to believe they would stay in business for a long time while lying to customers. No insult but I will believe my friend’s recommendation and that company over someone I don’t know at all who is on a forum site. In the end it doesn’t matter and your post is meaningless to the discussion. But have a blessed day.

 

I'm just telling you. Only because I'd love for a company to come out with 4.10 gears for our 4runners. Honestly that gear ratio would be perfect(imo).

Jumping from 3.73 to 4.56 is aggressive for a daily driver with stock size tires or even 285s. If your looking for decent for fuel mileage.

For the op I'd recommend trying out the ott tune before swapping the gears. Maybe it'll be enough.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I'm far from an expert on tunes, but I looked into it again (I had a Yotawerx tune on my last 4Runner). Honestly, I don't think I would want to go with a tune again. I just don't have the warm and fuzzies about altering the ECU. I know that could very well just be in my head, and I do not have any definitive proof that a tune can or will mess anything up. But after having one on my last 4Runner I just don't see it as something I'd do again.

As for fuel mileage, I see conflicting posts everywhere. Some say their MPG improved after regear while others say it drops. Obviously more MPG is always a plus, but I'm ok with a drop in MPG's within reason.

 

As far as tunes go. Yotawerx needs improvement. Kd max 9.0 and 10.0 was far superior to anything yotawerx offers. Ott has spent time on the dyno and has tons of happy customers(I don't even have their tune, I'm still running the kd 10.0)

But when I regear or add a supercharger I'll be reaching out to ott.

 

Here ya go, ejaculated straight from the horse: https://pressroom.toyota.com/2018-4runner-product-info/ But feel free to believe whatever.

 

If you really want to learn about this regearing business, go to ECGS and spend an hour or so with them and they will teach you all you need to know and advice you on whether they recommend 456 or 488s. I guarantee you the learning will help you care of your 4R for the long-term.

 

I just learned they are 45 minutes from me, so my needle bearing will get replaced proactively with their clam shell bushing in the next year. And…..I will probably talk to them about regear options.

 

My mileage went up. I need less throttle to get it moving. It drives like a much lighter vehicle after the regear. I can still cruise at 80 just fine.

 

Not apples to apples, but i used to daily drive my Fox Mustang back in my 20's. I had 3.73's (stock are 2.73's). I don't recall any additional wear & tear or maintenance I did. I'm sure you're fine to follow your stock maintenance schedule even with the gears you plan on putting in (if you do).

 

This^^^One of the many reasons I didn't sell them after KDMAX sold. 10.0 still here as well.

 

It's funny you don't really hear much about yotawerx anymore.