Gearing suggestions information needed.

I haven't been on this forum for a while, but have been making steady progress on my 4runner build. Currently running a winch, all steel skid plates, Bilstein 6112 front Bilstein 5160 rear. Serpa roof rack, Ironman rear bumper and tire rack. Storage system in the rear. Running 285/75/17 Toyo RT tires. I'm seriously considering going to better gearing. Been doing some research and it seems 4.88 is the gearing of choice. What is everyones experience with this and what can I expect to pay to have this work done?

 

I went 4.56 for slightly better/lower rpm at interstate speeds. Love the lower gearing off road and solved my gear hunting jumping between 4th and 5th gear. I had to drop it into 4 any kind of crosswind or incline. Running full skids including fuel tank, sliders, low profile front and rear bumper. I can actually use cruise control again without jumping down to 4th. If I was running 35s then 4.88 would have been my decision.

Find a shop that specializes in gears or play it safe using ECGS just swapping in already assembled. I would ballpark 4k-5k.

Best mod i have done. I have not encountered anyone that is unhappy after regear. But its not cheap. I also believe it removes strain on the transmission.

 

^this up here by Todd is spot on.

If you intend to go to 35s one day, just go with 488's and be done. If you are staying in the 33s, 34s range then 456 is ok. I run 456 from ECGS and i chose that because i didn't want to run high rpm's since I have a SC as well. As to what to expect on $, I think north of 4k easily these days. Don't go cheap on the installation, this is a detailed type of job so go with experience and knowledge.

Good luck!

 

Figured @Yotaholic could jump in as I think he has 88s.

Otherwise ECGS is a heck of a source

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/?srsltid=AfmBOorPekccFeujqXGKCNCGKnCkGWFA5HUGWX3yAJy3MKxAaILIrnOO

 

An excellent option for DIY'N!

 

I was thinking of 4:56s. I get better mileage at a higher engine rpm anyway. Toyotas don't start running until about 2800 rpms. It would have been nice if they had used 4:30s like Tacoma and Tundra or even old 4:10s. I think it's more about the size of your CO2 pump than gas mileage now. Platform sharing has destroyed a lot individual models.

 

I know quite a few people that went with 4.56 and later stated they should have just went with 4.88s.For what it’s worth most of these rigs are on 35s and the lower gears would have helped lower the crawl ratio a bit more. This is at the expense of highway mpg.

Our setups are pretty similar OP. I’m on 34s now with stock gears. Still works just fine thanks to an OTT tune. (Although being at sea level in the plains of Texas does help) When I travel to your part of TX or Arkansas I do find myself using S4 on the highways just to battle the rolling hills.

When I move to 35s I’ll likely go 4.88s with an Eaton locker but I’m not in a rush. The rig is very capable as is. Thanks to OTT the gear hunting is not nearly as much of a problem as it used to be. The extra low end torque makes a huge difference as well.

 

Yeah I went from 19-23 mpg with 20s, to 18-20 mpg with 285s. I think it will get better. Mine likes hot, humid weather for mileage. I assume from running lean. It goes down in the winter.

 

Yea, I have the OTT tune already. It helped a good bit, but I'm planning a trip to the mountains in Colorado this September/October timeframe and I'm concerned about climbing those mountains and high altitudes with my current setup. I don't want to be that guy barely crawling up the mountain on I-70 with everyone blowing by me. I don't think I will be going 35's any time soon. I can barley get my rig in my garage on the 34's. It's the first time in 40+ years I can get my vehicle in the garage out of the weather.

 

What rpm do run at 70mph? I originally thought 4:88s. I'm not going over 33s. I thought about going back to 275s, but I've always had 33s on something. I'm old and it's getting hard to climb up. I had to reinstall running boards anyway. Too much negative wheel offset beats the paint off the side and factory mud flaps don't work correctly with the offset. I do it, no need to wish I had gotten 4:88s.

 

Its not just mountain inclines when going West from Texas. New Mexico cross winds wreaked havoc on my gear hunting. Get comfortable running high rpm either regear or dropping into 4.

Interstate speeds i think are the variable for each person. In Texas driving 85 on interstate is common. Other regions this may not be a need.

The trip from from TX to CO/UT is when I decided regear was needed.

 

My rig is set up with 285/75/17 Nitto MT's, OEM TRD 17" wheels, Gobi rack, skid plates, steel sliders, ARB compressor, winch with steel low profile bumper and other misc. shit to weight it down. I went with 4.88's and I am extremely happy with my decision. If I ever go up a notch with 35" tires, I am confident the 4.88's will handle it with no problems.

 

im on 285/75/r17 toyo rt trails and did 4.88 at ECGS. they had me in and out in about 6.5 hours if you are close by. paid just under 4k. im glad i went 4.88, the build only gets heavier and unless 80% of your driving is on highway over 70mph i would go say 4.88 is best choice. even when i am on highway and goin 70-80mph its really not a big deal at all

 

That's exactly why I am wanting to regear. Our plans are to go to Colorado and hit some trails, then on to Utah probably to Moab then back through Arizona or New Mexico. We are in East Texas, so there will be many miles and hills to traverse.

 

If I remember correctly, on flat ground doing 70 mph the rpm is roughly 1500 - 1800. That's when it finally gets up into 5 gear. Doesn't take much of a hill for it to downshift. It was pretty aggravating just on the trip to Palo Duro Canyon a month ago south of Amarillo at Merus Adventure Park. I found a 4x4 shop close to me that is working me up a quote on regearing to 4.88 now.

 

Yeah I think the elevation and mountain passes would quickly prompt a regear.

I spoke to @2021venture in person about this and even on his 32” tires he felt the need to regear after Colorado. Fair enough honestly.

If it was cheap, I’d have already ordered the ECGS diffs. Being in north Tx, it’d be mainly to lower that ridiculously high crawl ratio.

 

I see 35s in your future!