LBJ 14mm snapped. What are next steps...??

Simple preventative maintenance job of replacing LBJ on my 2001 4Runner 4WD SR5 went off the rails quickly. The first of the 14mm LBJ bolts snapped. I had been applying PB Blaster for days prior to the project start. Did not use impact rather short breaker with 3/8" 14mm socket. OH SNAP! Spent the next three hours drilling out remnants, tapping and replacing with new 14mm. Replacement OEM LBJ sit on work bench for now as I consider next steps.

Assuming the remaining 14mm LBJ fasteners are going to give me lots of trouble - if not fail like the first one - am I looking at replacing the steering knuckle? If so are the Dorman (698150 + 698151) aftermarket steering knuckles a safe/reliable replacement? Toyota OEM are $500 a pop vs $250 each for Dorman. Are special tools required to remove / replace the steering knuckle? Any recommended DIY's for doing so?

Thanks to forum members in advance for the help.

 

Would you consider Car-Part.com for a used OEM?

 

Replacing the knuckle would be a lot of work, getting it off the truck isn’t too bad, just requires a ball joint puller (and perhaps helpful for your LBJ conundrum). But to buy a replacement, and get it ready for install, requires a bearing press to press a new wheel bearing in. Not to mention buying a new bearing and salvaging or buying the remaining items on the knuckle etc etc. To echo blknblu, I’d rather get a junkyard OEM than an aftermarket but that’s just me.

you’d be better off continuing to try and remove the LBJs on the truck. What you need is HEAT! Buy a torch and heat those bolts up glowy, tap them with a hammer and try to remove the remaining bolts again. Sorry about the headache, rust is a bitch.

Edit: how-to on knuckle fun: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj-2IzO9RFk

 

Heat them up and turn your impact way down low. It's the impact that breaks that rust bond. I find using any size breaker bar is not the best.

 

Rock Auto like you have listed above. Dorman has been a trusted name in the automotive industry for decades! Low power on the impact after heating them up is a winner also, that's how I would do it. Don't be scared off by 1 broken bolt. Good luck.

 

At first sign of corrosion on a bolt like in your photo I would definitely replace them all while replacing the LBJ! I see too many imperfections caused by rust to trust a bolt in that condition.

 

Might want to try some Kroil instead of the PB Blaster. It's the best penetrant I've found.

 

It's super easy replacing a steering knuckle, but too much trouble for what you're dealing with.

I would just get the bolt off (what's remaining in the knuckle).

You're not the first to deal with this, and won't be the last.

Using the correct values for the correct OEM bolts is key here, and make sure not to use any anti-seize, thread locker, nothing as they will significantly change the torque value.

 

I’m having this same problem. Got the bolt out, drilled it out. Wondering if I can go up to m10x1.5 bolt or do I need to just order a new steering knuckle. Reason for asking is I installed the new bearing before I broke the bolt off.

 

Repair the M10 x 1.25 thread with a Helicoil or similar thread repair insert. And it's encouraging that you called it an M10, not a "14 mm bolt."

 

Sometimes a soak with Kroil (best penetrant I ever found) then vibrate several times a day by tapping on bolt head or, socket on bolt head, with hammer each day for a few days.
When ready to remove tighten bolt a tiny bit, then gently try removal a tiny bit. If no movement-stop and repeat.
Sometimes heat and quench can loosen frozen nuts/bolts. Only if safe for a micro butane torch and quench with ice water in a squirt bottle.