I replaced X-REAS with KYB

I just spent a good 9 hours disconnecting X-REAS and replacing it with new KYB Coilovers and G Shocks ($478.98 with tax from Shock Surplus). I'd like to share my experience:

My Limited's X-REAS has been leaking for at least two years and the ride and handling had continued to deteriorate to where I couldn't ignore it any longer. It has 130K on it. Nearly 1.5 hours of the 9 were spent trying to reach and disconnect the X-REAS 22 mm valves, and remove some lines. I planned to leave all of the hydraulic lines in place, but that didn't seem wise from the Control Absorber module, forward. I say this because once disconnected, the connector valve of the front lines would have been hanging and possibly banging against things. I did leave the two Controllers and the lines back to the rear shocks attached to the frame, because they still seemed securely connected to the frame.

Installation comments that come to mind:
- For the new rear shock top mount assembly, I reused the factory metal plate (black) that has a spike in it which goes into the frame mount hole to help hold the shock in place. See the pic below with shock on the ground, and the red line is where the frame mount would be.
- I didn't see much hydraulic fluid when unhooking X-REAS, but the 22 mm valves are said to be one way, so I'm sure that helps. However, I think the system was pretty drained because I didn't see much when unhooking lines from the Controller modules either. No matter what, prepare for a mess just in case.
- I did NOT remove the front sway bar to get the old coils out and new in, but it probably would have helped. The old and new struts passed through, but did take some finessing in and out. Being able to lower the Lower Control Arm (LCA) extensively is what made it all possible.
- I used a paint pen to mark the LCA alignment plates, but I still ended up moving a couple while pushing the LCA down for clearance. Expect to need an alignment, my camber and caster were off after install.
- A 14MM ratchet style wrench was wonderful for loosening and tightening the coilover top shock bolts. One that has a flex head would have been even better.
- The Car Care Nut on YouTube scared me a bit as a recent video from him noted that the 4R will sit up "really high" in the front if you put on even stock height coilovers meant for a non-Limited trim, on a Limited. More on that in my next point, but I want to point out that the KYB coilovers are different lengths, as the driver's side one is longer to help offset the gas tank weight (I guess). It shows that KYB is trying meet Toyota specs, and not just making both coilovers the same length.
- The measurement at my front wheel arches jumped from roughly 34.5 to 36.5. Per KYB, these will settle .5 to 1". The rears stayed at 36.75. So, despite the warning from TCCN, I went forward with the install, and I'm keeping the Limited's coils in case I ever want to use them again. See pic below for the new profile, and you can decide for yourselves.

The ride: No surprise, since the X-REAS was essentially failing, that the new ride is much better controlled in all aspects. I'm very happy that cornering is much flatter, and the front end no longer plunging into corners like before. I was worried that larger bumps might be jarring because it's a slightly firmer ride, but it's not drastically firmer. Also, the coils are not "broke in" yet. I have no regrets at this point.

It's safe to assume that an X-REAS at 100% would outperform conventional KYB, but the difference doesn't come close to justifying the cost of having X-REAS rebuilt. I have just under $700 in this swap after paying for a professional alignment.

KYB Coils and Shocks used:
1 SR4529 Front Left Strut & Spring (Driver side)
1 SR4528 Front Right Strut & Spring
2 349185 Rear Shocks

Videos I referenced in preparation for this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BdjttFvmV8&t=3s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZDCxH0s_bc&t=2396s

Pics next post:

 

Pics: Rear X-REAS disconnect, rear and front post install, side profile post install

 

Great work! Thanks for sharing this. It's only a question of time before I have to deal with this on the wife's 22 Limited 4WD. Much appreciated.

 

Nice work. CCN has been doing some fear mongering in reference to XREAS. It's not that hard to remove. Really. And if you're using a pre-assembled front strut, the conversion is really easy.

 

I agree that X-REAS is not hard to remove, but it is certainly a pain reaching those front 22mm connectors. I do think CCN's warning about using coilovers that don't use different lengths and could affect the front end level from left to right, is worth considering. As for new front end height in general, the KYB's will settle a bit, and it should be close to level if not a slight rake when that happens. I'm OK with it, and the future kid that I sell it to will love the ready made clearance for new aggressive rubber, ha.

Photo: Driver's side coilover (SR4529) on the left:

 

How about using the SR5/FJ rear coils?
Seems like a complete conversion would eliminate the imbalance.
I was considering this in my 13 limited since they were leaking. Definitely leaking now after jumping it 3ft in a wreck and totaling it. ☹️
Now I have a 14 and it’s in better shape but I know the inevitable will come.

TCCN really did bash that pretty hard.I’m always in the comments.
I saw a 16/17 yesterday that sat up high front and back and looked really good and they obviously did the full swap it was identical to yours.

 

So you're now closer to being level. Seems like a good outcome.

 

I didn't consider those rear coils, but it's certainly a good point if I wanted to bump up the height on the rear. But as for this "high front end" post conversion narrative from some, I was thinking about how the first measurement I took on the front was with a worn out X-REAS system in place. The new measurement will drop as the coils settle. I don't have a brand new Limited near me to go out and measure the front, but I can't think that we're talking more than an inch higher from new when it's all said and done. Therefore, I'm assuming this change puts no significant stress on any of the front end and my biggest risk is small drop in MPG.

 

I like to think so.

 

Love CCN and he knows more about Toyotas than anyone, but his take on Xreas and what to do if it fails was very alarmist and not typically his style. Countless people have replaced failing Xreas with great success. It's not much more effort than replacing a worn shock/strut, especially if you leave most of the plumbing on the frame.

 

After seeing CCN's vid, I considered only doing the rear shocks but also disconnecting front and rear hydraulic lines myself. Then, I was going to buy struts through a local shop and have them put the old Limited's coils on those. The KYB coilovers would have been returned to SS.

I first asked for a quote on what type of struts they could order. Sadly, the shop's representatives panicked over not being able to order struts for a Limited. I told them, pick the SR5 type strut, the X-REAS will be disconnected, it will be a standard strut swap for you. Then they told me to use a specialty shop. I begged for this person to discuss this with their techs, and that they'd understand. No dice, so dumb.

Frustrated, I didn't bother checking other shops and said f it, I have the parts and enough tools, I'm doing this myself.

 

It's a misunderstood system for non-4Runner people. But yeah, if a shop can replace a strut/shock, they can do the swap. One note-Keep track of original spring location on the Limited. They springs are slightly different lengths. Just label with tape before removing.

 

Agreed. I used a white paint marker to note what corner the strut came off of, and I drew a line down the strut and coil to show exact alignment of the complete assembly, should I ever need to know it.

 

Did you see any physical signs that your X-REAS was failing beside the feeling of worst ride quality. Like oil drops collecting on the shocks or the lines. Maybe oil underneath the shocks on the drive way or floor. Just wondering if there is a more precise way of telling if the are failing or failed.

 

Any leak and it's failed. That can be at the shock body, lines, junctions.

 

Yes, dirt stuck to the shock or strut body. The oil leaks and dirt sticks to it. That's the easiest sign, and 2 of 4 showed this, it really stands out on the red body.

If you look at my new front coil picture further above, note the dirt caked on the steering piece connected to the upper ball joint. The shock body had that on it. The fluid clearly also sprayed on some of the suspension metal!

 

I used Bilstein but KYBs are good struts. I used KYB strut tops when I rebuilt mine and Energy isolators. Mine were leaking at 150k and I replaced at 202k when they got clunky. Definitely rides and drives better.