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Tips before I pull motor

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by Mason1848, Dec 17, 2018.

  1. Dec 17, 2018 at 5:54 AM
    #1
    Mason1848

    Mason1848 [OP] New Member

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    Problems.
    Truck ran. Started having a metallic rattle from engine so I parked pulled plugs took belts off and tried to turn crank by hand I get almost 350 then dead stop.
    Took intake plenium off noticed oil/water residue on the gasket above #5 intake.
    Ran a bore scope trou plug holes no obstruction or moisture pulgs looked normal.

    Runner is a manual transmission
     
  2. Dec 17, 2018 at 10:25 AM
    #2
    Oldtoyotaguy

    Oldtoyotaguy Paid cash for it

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    It’s remarkable that no sensors came on when this happened. You might try a compression check. I wish I could say something definitive but this needs a tear down. You might check your oil for coolant. Hopefully if the block is ok, and you shut it down in time, you can repair whatever bushing, bearing, piston ring, piston, or connecting rod that has failed.
     
  3. Dec 31, 2018 at 5:34 PM
    #3
    Mason1848

    Mason1848 [OP] New Member

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    Pulled engine pulledpoff head
    Mechanical damage to piston
    Mechanical damage to head

    time to look at either grinding down the damage or replacing the head.. and swapping the piston out. Any tips on flushing out oil collent gallery to get what ever got cought in the cylinder out. Have not found anything that would have caused the damage yet
    Edit

    KIMG0172.jpg
    KIMG0171.jpg
     
  4. Dec 31, 2018 at 8:39 PM
    #4
    Oldtoyotaguy

    Oldtoyotaguy Paid cash for it

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    Check your spark plugs for damage. They don’t get changed that often on modern engines and sometimes the ceramic tips can overheat and destruct.
     
  5. Dec 31, 2018 at 10:19 PM
    #5
    Mason1848

    Mason1848 [OP] New Member

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    Just rechecked plugs cerimic is intact
     
    Oldtoyotaguy likes this.
  6. Jan 1, 2019 at 4:55 PM
    #6
    Oldtoyotaguy

    Oldtoyotaguy Paid cash for it

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    You could also get your oil analyzed, that might reveal the source of the damage if it isn’t visible.
     
  7. Jan 1, 2019 at 5:29 PM
    #7
    Mason1848

    Mason1848 [OP] New Member

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    Not sure how that would work from my understanding oil analysis is to tell you if extra carbon, water, or other issues going on inside the block. If anyone has more information about how oil analysis works and what results could show plz chime in. Willing to try but have a feeling all I would get is a result of metal flakes in oil.
     
  8. Jan 10, 2019 at 7:44 PM
    #8
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

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    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Might be worth pulling the CAT to see if the little bugger that was banging around in thier got by the exhaust valve and out of the engine. Not likely but a cheap check just the same.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2019 at 4:24 AM
    #9
    grayflare

    grayflare New Member

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    That looks like a nut got in there from the impressions in the head and piston. If you try grinding out the impressions you will change the compression ratio of that cylinder. It will cost more but I think I would try to find a rebuilt head and replace the piston. If that was a nut that got in there, seems to me there should be some damage to the intake valve and seat, and possibly the exhaust valve and seat. Also check the cylinder walls for damage. Hopefully there wont be any.
     
  10. Jan 11, 2019 at 5:05 AM
    #10
    Kyblack76

    Kyblack76 New Member

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    I don't know enough to comment, but, when I saw the pic, the first thing that came to my mind is "man, that impression looks like some one stamped it, with a nut" .
    Bummer man....best of luck with repair
     
  11. Jan 11, 2019 at 6:01 AM
    #11
    grayflare

    grayflare New Member

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    Just thinking, take the head to a place that does head work and have them look at it and get their opinion on whether it can be fixed or needs to be replaced. They may have options we are not aware of (welding it up and resurfacing it). Take both heads in case they can fix the bad one and have a valve job done on the good head also while your engine is apart.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019

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