What have you done to your 4th Gen 4Runner today?

will give that a go.. found another bar for a few more inches of leverage as well.

 

Heat is your friend! You got this!

 

Heat didnt seem to do it, bouncing 200lbs of me on the bitch bar that i had to extend my breaker finally busted it free.. incredible.. after taking the cv axle out i noticed the seal springs on the inner wheel bearing seal werent in the right place.

That ended up being just as much of a pain in the ass as putting the ebrake back together two days ago.

I see a sway bar link boot is torn...to boot.

On the plus side I feel like Im getting alot of experience wrenching on this thing.

 

I'm glad you got it but sorry it was such a pain. It looks like you have at least half a roll of paper towels yet to go.

 

Todays project of draining the front diff case ended quick. Stripped the stupid 10mm hex drain plug. Heat didnt help. Not sure what kind of knucklehead tightened some things on this unit.
I jb welded a torx socket(that i hope i never need) into the oversized hex hole. Will see if that gets a good hold when i attempt again tomorrow.
Fill plug came out no issues at all.

 

Pulled the inspection plate and got a pic of the timing chain tensioner. I think it looks pretty good for 260K miles though I’m open to hearing from people who know more about it.



Also put the endoscopic camera down the oil filler tube for this one.

 

Update on my stripped front diff drainplug. Jb weld didnt hold at all. Ended up sucking all the old fluid out the top fill hole, must have got almost all as the case took the full 1.5Liter to bring level with the fill hole.
Next time it needs done i will probably take it to some shop to get the drain plug drilled out.

What a beautiful design that hex plug is.

 

Instead of drilling it out have them weld a bolt or nut to it so they can remove it with a wrench or socket, the heat from welding it will also help free it up a little, I would also recommend getting a new plug for it but not the same type.

 

Thanks for the tip, I was thinking theyd have some sort of stripped screw out bit, but welding to it sounds alot more sound.

 

Getting a clunk at the rear when coming to a complete stop slowly. Think i have a sticky rear caliper to look at.. not sure how to know what side its coming from though.

 

If you do have a sticking caliper it will heat up more than one that is not sticking, so after driving around for a while and using the brakes a lot check to see if one rotor is warmer than the other, if you have a infrared thermometer (these are very handy to have) it's very easy to tell the difference, if not try a spray bottle of water and see if one evaporate the water faster than the other.

 

When you do it next, update to Lexus transfercase drain

90341-24016 $ 9.47 PLUG (FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL DRAIN)

I got them thru Bell Lexus North Scottsdale

https://www.reddit.com/r/4Runner/comments/14i1faf/pro_tip_replace_your_4runners_front_diff_drain/

 

Do you need to grease your driveline? That stop and go clunk can occur with a dry yoke, also...

 

Have the propeller shafts been lubed?

 

Something that made life much easier with that front diff plug is an extended hex bit. This is just an example, I can't recall the size off the top of my head. But @LOSTR4's suggestion for the Lexus plug is solid too. Kind of gave me a chuckle - I guess they can't have wealthy people stripping the plugs LOL (As if most are doing the work anyway.)

 

I greased the driveshaft a couple weeks ago, and thought that it maybe did help, so thought at the time that maybe that was it, but it came back real soon, so maybe it was in my head that the clunk subsided.. or i didnt grease it enough.. haynes book says grease till grease spits out on all locations, where youtubers say only a few pumps at some locations and that you dont want it spitting out at the yokes.. just the spiders(maybe i have that reversed.

Thanks for the lexus number. Thats in the future for sure. Although i expect if the front diff drain was done on a proper schedule that darn plug probably wouldnt get all seized to hell.

 

I'm in the camp of grease until it comes out for the u-joints. I had a clunk as well, and i've always greased the slip yoke, however, i went back and greased the hell out of it, like 20 pumps until i saw the actual slip yoke move away from the tail shaft like a milimeter. Then i released the pressure from the zerk. Haven't had a clunk since.

 

Grease is cheap... send it thru until clean grease comes out

 

Will grease the grease out of it and see how that goes.

 

So i got everythung well greased.
While under there I notice one of the support bars from the frame to the crossover is completely missing, all bolts have been broke off. Amazing. How big of a deal is this bar thats missing on one side, I have no idea how long its been gone as ive only had this about a month now.
Heres a picture

 

Installed a trailer brake controller in preparation for our epic road trip later this year. Driving from Metro Atlanta to pick up a travel trailer rental in Reading, PA, then exploring PA, NY, VT, & NH.

Installation was easy with the plug & play harness they sell.

 

I finally threw in the re-vamped rear sway bar linkages...

 

Flushed my brake fluid. Didnt seem too dirty, but had no idea how old it was. Was happy i didnt bust off any bleeder screws. For some reason the rears were 10mm and the fronts were 8mm.

 

Speedbleeders work really well and make the job much easier.

 

I will look into that for next time. Thanks

 

I started noticing the factory protective coating is wearing off in places so I have started applying some rust eater primer and repairing the areas effected by our new to the state, mag chloride snow treatments...ugh I hate that crap!! We will all now have lots of rust!

 

More "done..."

 

Last one for a bit...I redid the swaybar linkages after I noticed extra stuff on the workbench...ha! Feels far better in my head!

 

What product is that you use for your surface rust, is that painted after applying or just black from your rust product?
I bought two today and neither one come out like that

 

I thought I snapped a pic of the stuff I used...it's a small paint brushed on water based rust neutralizer...starts put cloudy, so you see what you're covering and than dries smooth and clearish..it was supposed to turn black after several coats but I only did two coats and it wasn't "black" enough for me so I used some rustoleum gloss black...twas all I had on hand...sorry for the repeats...I'll snap a photo of the actual product later