Installing Transmission Cooler - Please check my understanding

Did a quite some research and I think this is the way the trans lines are supposed to go. Using my very limited artistic skills made the diagrams in hopes that it makes sense and that I am thinking this though correctly. From my understanding, the output from the trans goes to the top of the existing radiator, then from the bottom of the radiator to the top of the trans cooler, and finally bottom of trans cooler back to the transmission itself. This look right?

For refence, this is the cooler I am getting.

$39 Hayden Automotive 512 High Performance Transmission Cooler

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C3DDEA/?coliid=I2CIOQ3RT8RPV9&colid=2W0MVBHBHCWD7

 

I have a dumb question, sorry.

May I ask what is your transmission temperature for you to decide to install a transmission cooler? Have a pic of the high temperature on your use?

 

You don't have to have high temps to warrant a cooler. A trans cooler is not only going to help stabilize and maintain a more consistent temp but it's also going to increase the fluid capacity of the system.

Many 4Runners also came from the factory with an additional, external trans cooler. Mine did and I have since changed to a much larger aftermarket trans cooler and made the OEM trans cooler into a power steering cooler.

 

Honestly, I am not "fixing" anything, I just like the idea of having better trans cooling especially when its 100+ in Texas and there is a lot of stop and go traffic. For me its cheap insurance.

 

Your diagram looks good. That's essentially how the factory does it.

 

I live in Tucson and see 110+ in the summers here. This is the first trans cooler I used and have since switched to a slightly larger one. Stacked plate coolers like these are generally a little better and more durable than the Hayden style coolers.

https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/LNG-4543.html

This is the larger one I'm running now, along with a PML aluminum trans pan.

https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/LNG-4590.html

 

+ may be helpful. The bypass is b/c the fluid can actually be too cool on occasion.

 

Anyone observing higher transmissions temperature with a full skid plates installed.

Pretty impressed with the cooling ability of the stock system based on my scangauge stats.

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but i'm just about to start my trans cooler installation when a saw this diagram.
Forgive my ignorance but for me it looks like a wrong way to connect the additional cooler. If the fluid comes from the top the cooler is going to be airlocked IMO.
As i understand it, the fluid has to come from the bottom to push air out.
Where am i wrong?
Has the OP completed his installation the way it was on the diagram? Does it work?

Thank you

 

I installed a Scanguage2 and it provides many dozens of real time engine & tranny parameters.
I usually have all 4 tire pressure readings on its display. I watch my tranny temp when in the mountains climbing grades in 100+ temps. The pic below TFT is tranny temp in fahrenheit. TP1-4 is the 4 tire pressures. Which I monitor when driving very fast on highways with poor shoulders.

 

That's how I install auxiliary transmission coolers. In series with the factory coolers.

 

So, the inlet(IN) for the auxiliary cooler goes on top and OUT on the bottom? No problem with air-locking as many on YouTube claim?

 

It just like how hot coolant enters the radiator top and exits the radiator bottom as cooler coolant. It's the first time I've heard of air locking as it's just a hydraulic circuit. If air locking is indeed a thing, a tee with a plug or valve could allow for burpage. Hydraulics typically self-bleed with use.

 

Not trying to argue, i'm genuinely confused.
I'm with you on this one but while watching vids on youtube i encountered some installation videos where they say it is advises to put "IN" on the bottom.
Another point, the engine radiator never gets empty, it is closed system with no way for air to get in and if you change the antifreeze you need to run the motor for long time to get all the air out of the system,
Transmission radiator on the other hand, gets empty as soon as you stop the engine, it sucks the air out of the transmission, now, when you start the engine and transmission starts circulating the oil, most of the air is trapped inside the transmission cooler. The OEM "cooler" has only one tube inside the engine radiator. In this case the air is just getting pushed out, it is why for OEM cooler is not important to get the air out, hence it is logical to run it form the top to the bottom. It is the theory of it.
How right it is i have no idea, it is why i try to go to the bottom of this, sorry

Here are some long vids, just go the the marks
See from 11:30 mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34wnfq85_qk

See from 6:00 mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EtQJb3RDzY

 

An automatic transmission's positive displacement gear pump will quickly dispatch any air pockets in the cooler circuit, whether these YouTube experts are on to something or not.

 

I followed the directions when I installed my Hayden. It works great. Don’t overthink it.

 

It is what I'm going to do. Thank you guys

 

One last thing to consider - a . I didn’t know fluid being too cool was a consideration until I saw someone else’s post about it. It’s pretty cool (ha!) to see the temp go over 180 degrees then suddenly begin dropping when I have OBD Fusion running.

 

Yes, I thought about it. First I want to seehow it performs in the summer, when most of my towing happens. But anyhow, I think 165 degrees or even 135 degrees are better choices than 180 degrees bypass.
But again, my uneducated and unexperienced thought.