Switch Pro 9100 Issues

Hey All,

Hoping someone on here has either had and resolved this issue or maybe has some insight. I have spoken with both PowerTrays (very helpful) and SwitchPro (not helpful at all) about my issues.

I have a 2022 4Runner TRD Pro set up with a SwitchPro 9100 and PowerTray Dual MRBF set up. The unit was installed and working great with my aux lights (Baja Designs S8 30" and Morimoto 4banger A pillar lights). A couple months ago I began getting lack of connectivity with the SwitchPro switch with the small comms light at the top of the unit flashing orange. This is not one of the switches flashing orange that indicate a short. According to SP orange flashing comms or power light is caused by issues with grounding (this is about all they have told me). I tested the grounding and everything checked out. The power wire from the switch pro is tapped into the 7.5A ACC fuse and the backlight wire is tapped into the 10A tail fuse (both using the add-a-fuse). I have sent the unit back to SwitchPro and they are saying they can not find any issues (operating normally). Prior to sending it in I was grounded to the negative busbar on the PowerTray unit.

Although the issue began intermittently and typically rendered the switches inoperable, it began happening more frequently and started producing other weird side effects like the aux lights coming on after the vehicle had been shut off. The only way to reset the power unit and switch was either by doing a scan with the app to reconnect or by power cycling the unit by unplugging in the engine bay. SP seems fairly confident this is a grounding issue and told me to ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery as opposed to the grounding bus bar provide by PowerTray. Ironically I spoke with PowerTray and one of their staff is having the exact same issue after getting his unit replaced by SP. I can say that one thing that causes the unit to go into limp mode every single time is using the remote start on the key fob. Again SP didnt believe that was the issue causing it. I asked which fuse to tap and the customer service rep was like we dont even do installs- sorry cant help you bro. They were actually pretty rude. This is a $600 piece of equipment and in my mind customer service is KING. Im pretty frustrated they have no interest in helping me out as a customer. All in all they have done very little to help me sort this out short of blaming the PowerTray which tons of people are running without these issues. Honestly if you are looking to get a switch for aux lights I would steer clear of SP.

Any help from the community would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

Anyone?

 

Have you tried moving the ground to the negative terminal?

That would be all I could suggest, as I’ve not run into any of these problems, but I went straight to the battery (per the instructions) with both hot and ground.

I can’t help but wonder, what’s the purpose of the powertray? Is it just to handle all of the amperage with your own relays, and only use the SP to trigger those with low draw? I took my SP installation as the opportunity to get rid of all of my extra relays/wiring harnesses and use the SP for it all.

 

Also you try moving the add-a-fuse to somewhere else?

 

@OverRunner I appreciate the response. I haven't tried moving the grounding yet because my unit is still at SwitchPros. As I mentioned the person at Power Trays I spoke with has tried this (ground the SP power unit to the negative terminal on battery) and was still having the issue. Last night I was thinking that maybe the electrical interference may require moving the Power Tray grounding as well. I'll likely try both.

As far as the function of the PowerTray its an organizational thing, circuit protection and a fuse block. The tray has positive and negative busbars for easy attachment and trouble shooting. No relays needed as that all handled by the SP. Its a pretty nice set up (assuming it doesnt create electrical current problems for your SP power unit and switch).

 

@iamincrediboy do you have suggestions for which fuse to tap for power aside from the ACC? SwitchPro support literally was like "we dont we dont do installs and cant tell you what fuse to tap". I literally laughed out loud, I mean really- thats solid customer support.

 

One of the write-ups I found when installing mine suggested using the Ignition circuit. After talking with a few mechanic friends of mine about the difference in Ignition and IGN #2, I chose to attach to ACC, on their advice. With the electrical sensitivity of these new models, I didn’t want to add any loads to the Ignition circuits that might interfere with the starting process. Whereas I can safely assume that Toyota has the ACC circuit programmed to sleep when the starter (or any other utility) needs the full battery draw.

But yes, my experience was the same as yours, if it’s not related to the programming of the SP unit itself, the instructions/support are not at all helpful. I think there were a few photos for a Jeep install in the back of the pamphlet, but that was it.

 

if it's "sensitive" - are you running power off the battery terminal and controlling with a relay to ignition on? is the best way to do anything rather than pull power from something else.

 

My switch pro has had no issues. I used the SDHQ mounting bracket and went right to the batteries with modified SDHQ battery terminals. Had it installed for well over a year (going on two years actually). Not even a blimp. Sorry you are having issues.

 

I have basically the same the power trays setup, but with their circuit breakers. I installed it back in November, no issues yet (knock on wood).

2022 OR with KDSS. I’m tapped into the power outlet fuse for the ignition wire and grounding it with the bus bar.

 

@xoxrnr where do you have the power tray grounded- fender or negative battery terminal?

 

My bus bar is grounded to the fender the same spot the battery is grounded.

 

Ok that’s how I had mine grounded. Is your Switch Pro grounded to the bus bar or fender?

 

The switch pro is grounded with the bus bar

 

As per instructions (last bullet point at bottom), I have mine directly connected to the negative terminal. I haven’t had any issues with mine, but I’m also only using 3 things set up.

 

I have a 0 gauge or a 1 gauge grounding wire to the negative terminal and I have all my ground going to a bus bar. My positive goes to the switch pro directly and I have a double bus bar where I hook up the positives that I want with each port being 1-8. Here is my Amazon items:

$22 Blue Sea Systems 2300 150 Amp Common BusBar with 10 screws and a cover

Ground bus

$13 Blue Sea Systems 2508 30A - 8 Circuit Terminal Block

Terminal block (each switch pro switch connects to each power port. Then I hookup what I want to each switch on the opposite side).

I think the hookup is self explanatory on how I did it but if you have any questions I am happy to answer.

 

I dont have a 5th gen but I agree with the others that the ACC fuse is indeed the better choice between that and IGN fuse.

I personally went a different route and went completely analog and built my system myself... but it all comes down to having power hot > circuit breaker > Bussman fuse block > relays, then each relay is ground switched to operate. The fuse block is ground directly to the negative terminal, and I did actually sand down the paint on my fender for the power tray.

 

Ok for anyone with this issue here is what I did that seemed to solve it.

1) grounded both PowerTray and SwitchPro power unit to the negative terminal of the battery.

2) maintained ACC and tail light fuse for the add-a-fuse power and backlight

the issue may rear it’s head again but for now no flashing orange light or Bluetooth connectivity issues.

 

I’ve been having this same issue since I installed mine about 4 months ago. It works perfectly for about 2 weeks, then I randomly have one of the switches turn on when the vehicle is parked and off, and the only way to turn it off is to unplug the large wire harness directly on the SP.

Customer service walked me through testing the ground, which is and has always been connected to the negative battery terminal. It checked out okay. I was then told there might be an issue with one of the pins in the harness. I live about an hour from their HQ so I’m going to drive the 4Runner up sometime soon to have them look at it. I can’t have my switches continue to turn on like this.

 

@swingbatta make sure both the power module and your buscar are grounded to negative battery terminal (assuming you have the later). Also test and check the polarity of your add a fuses on the fuse panel. While the add a fuse will work inserted with the wrong polarity I think that’s what was causing the issue for me. Mine hasn’t tripped in weeks!

 

Thanks! They’re both grounded directly to the battery. I tested polarity when installing the two add-a-fuses and I know one of them is not oriented properly. There was not enough clearance for the pigtail end of it, so I put it in reversed. I decided to roll the dice and do it this way since it’s such a low amperage fuse and several other installers did the same without issue. I’ll take another look at it tomorrow. Maybe there’s an add-a-fuse with the pigtail end facing the opposite direction?

 

This is interesting to read as I just had some lights(diode dynamic ss3 amber backlight) that are hooked up to the 9100 turn on while I was at work. I was surprised to see them on when I came out since the 4Runner was completely off. First time I had something weird happen with the 9100 so hopefully it was just a one time thing but will keep an eye on it.

 

@Mr. Snuffleupagus Have you been able to resolve this problem?
I'm having a very similar problem with my unit and I'm about three months out of the two year warrantee. I went through their troubleshooting form but their answer was to send the power unit back to them on my dime and pay them $60 an hour to diagnose the problem and tell me if it's repairable.
Thanks

 

@d110pickup I did solve the issue. I wasn't super diligent about documenting which change fixed it but here is what I did. I changed the SP 9100 and power switch tray bus bar negative grounding to the battery- previously my SP negative ground was to the negative bus bar on the power tray. Second I checked the orientation and polarity of all my Add-a-Fuses. I did end up sending my unit to SP and they told me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I hope this helps fix you issues as well

 

Thanks.
My unit has been doing strange stuff like turning devices on without the key in the ignition or the bluetooth being connected. It killed the battery while sitting in the garage and I won't take a chance on a fire.
I've read about others having similar issues, and trying to work with Switch Pros.
I'm pulling that POS out and going to switches, relays and fuses. I've never had a problem with those.

 

In research mode, this just happened to me. Oddly I’ve never been able to connect to it via Bluetooth.

 

I've been having the same exact issues. I've sent my whole unit in as well. They tell me nothing is wrong with it but yet I still have issues. Now they want me to send it again. Mine is installed exactly per their directions. Has since day one. Very frustrating. You ever solve your issue?

 

Any resolve?

 

Following - mine has the intermittent flash. Getting kinda pissed off, tbh

 

You ever think about just yanking it all out and going with switches?