Rate my alignment

Just got aligned after a spacer life. Are these camber numbers something to be concerned about ? How do I fix the right rear ?

2” lift on 285/70

 

Not overly bad. Few alignments are right on spec. Toe is within spec which is most important. You would be fine with timely tire rotations. When I did alignments they were set to compensate for road crown. Meaning slight pull to the left. Roads are crowned at the center line so water drains both sides. Where camber and caster are adjustable depending on readings ideally you would want 1/4 degree more positive camber on the left or 1/2 degree negative caster on the left for it drive straight on crowned roads. And yes road crown do vary. Only Toe and Camber wear tires. You have slight camber to the right offset by slight caster to the left on the front. If it goes straight don't worry. Your suspension lift will limit the amount of adjustability up front. The rear is a solid axle and not adjustable which is why it's greyed out.

 

Did the lift include replacement upper control arms?

 

Post the whole sheet of the before and after

 

It did not but now considering my shocks are blown and I have to realign I’m wondering if I should consider them or if my alignment is OK as is. Thanks!

 

Your alignment isn’t good. Even lifted they should be able to camber even and near zero. That’s is why I asked for the before numbers as well. Looking at just the after readout I’m guessing they didn’t actually align it, they just set the front toe and called it good.

 

X2 ^^^

It should be in the “Green”

 

If it feels good on the road, then your probably fine.

 

Green =\= good, there’s more to it than that.

 

I know little about alignments but, how do you account for the inaccuracies with the rear measurements? Equipment inaccuracies, bent wheel, wheel mating surface bad, or what? Or are the values small and insignificant?

 

Once the heads are mounted you do a rolling compensation where it watches the wheels move and compensates for stuff like that.

The rear measurements aren’t inaccurate, they just aren’t adjustable. Most people don’t know this but alignments are aligning the front wheels in relation to the rear. When adjustable you always adjust the rear first (the exception being on vehicles where a subframe shift adjusts camber, in that cause you move the subframe first, then adjust the rear).

 

I still don't see how toe and camber can be off on the rear. The rear end housing was certainly straight when it was machined at the factory. Since you say the equipment is relatively accurate, is the rear end bent, flexed, warped, or something else?

I have bent and broken rear end tubes and the vehicle (Bronco) still drove relatively well with the rear out of alignment.

 

Unless the rear links were replaced with solid mounts or hiem ends, there is a lot of flex in those rubber bushings...

If you take it around the block and put it up on the rack again, the numbers will be different. I bet if you did it 5 times, you would get 5 different readings as well.
Uneven tire pressure and even tire wear will effect it as well...

 

It's a solid rear axle, how can the bushings affect the camber or toe? Even if you had a flat tire, the camber on each side should match with positive on one side and negative on the other.

 

Everything machined or built has allowable tolerances. Tolerances stack and bushings wear. When it’s not adjustable it what it is. Keep in mind the values shown in 1/60th of a degree increments. It’s precise enough that tightening the jamb not on tie rod can cause a .02-.03 change in the toe reading.

 

I can understand this answer.

So, basically, it's not enough to worry about and there is nothing you can do anyway.

 

You can do something about it, I went with Dobinsons adjustable links for all 4 rears and dialed in the rear.