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So............Tailgate speaker question

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by GreatDane, Jan 2, 2023.

  1. Jan 2, 2023 at 4:29 PM
    #1
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    So, I know by now one of the other audiophiles on here has figured out how to disable the rear tailgate speakers while at the same time allowing the rear door speakers to still play.
    Will I have to cut the wires going up through the B pillar to the door speakers and run new wires, or is there a way to do get them to work without doing all that work? I'm gonna be replacing the head unit also, so I'll have access to the wiring behind it.
    Let me know something guys!!
     
  2. Jan 3, 2023 at 5:25 AM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone New Member

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    If I was going to disable the tailgate speakers, I would disconnect them and install a jumper adapter on the OEM connector for each.
     
    Thatbassguy likes this.
  3. Jan 3, 2023 at 9:16 AM
    #3
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    I'm thinking that I'm gonna get a wiring diagram or a schematic of the speaker wiring, and separate them at the point where they join. I'm really hoping that it's on the wiring harness behind the head unit, because if so, that'll make it easy for me.
     
  4. Jan 3, 2023 at 9:07 PM
    #4
    kcdude

    kcdude New Member

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    As for wiring to the rear door speakers….next to impossible to get a home run speaker replacement wire through that plastic grommet. Best to tap at the headunit and use the OEM wiring….should be good for anything under 100WPC. Also super easy to fab a Metra harness to make this plug and play….no wire cutting.

    For the fronts you can do the same or fab a harness to split for mids/tweets and intercept at the tweeter location. Then from your crossovers it is easy to run new wiring to the tweeter and front door speaker location through the boot. But rear doors are a no go…either tap at the headunit or just before the b-pillar pass thru.

    Then for the rear hatch, assuming you tap the rear leads at the headunit….Get a Metra speaker wiring harness adapter and wire the two leads together. Then unplug rear hatch speaker and plug the Metra adapter in to the OEM harness. This maintains the series wiring to the rear doors and all headunit power is directed there. Completely reversible and is cheap. Would not suggest this unless replacing the rear speakers with 4ohm speakers.

    I did this to get a full 4Ohm load to my Focal components up front and coax’s installed in the rear doors…factory ones are 2ohm in the door wired in a series with 2ohm in the rear hatch…presenting a 4ohm load to the OEM headunit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2023
  5. Jan 4, 2023 at 12:04 AM
    #5
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    Thanks man.
    Can I PM you so that I can talk to you more about what you did?
     
  6. Jan 4, 2023 at 4:39 AM
    #6
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    It's easy to get at the rear speakers. It wouldn't be hard to install the adapters @dolbytone mentioned.

    I doubt there are separate wires to the head unit from the hatch and the rear doors. But, I'm curious what you'll find in the wiring diagram.
     
  7. Jan 4, 2023 at 5:57 AM
    #7
    kcdude

    kcdude New Member

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    Sure

    more discussion here when I was working through my install…also this post has a wiring schematic that shows series wiring in rear:

    B96EC1A1-3494-4FFF-A3FC-E3496393D56B.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2023
  8. Jan 4, 2023 at 5:58 AM
    #8
    kcdude

    kcdude New Member

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    Rear doors are wired in series with the hatch. Same lead at the head unit. Front OEM tweeter and mid in door are wired in parallel.
     
  9. Jan 4, 2023 at 6:27 AM
    #9
    dolbytone

    dolbytone New Member

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    There are not. You get 4 pairs at the factory radio. Probably the series wiring for all of the rear speakers happens at a connector in the kick panels, but I didn’t look into it since I didn’t feel like altering the rear channel wiring was necessary at the time I did my stereo upgrade.

    After an upgrade you shouldn’t even hear the rear channels, and I do appreciate having working tailgate speakers when I’m loading out and want to finish a podcast or a song was listening to.
     
  10. Feb 22, 2023 at 6:26 AM
    #10
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    Late update: I had some speaker adapters in my garage. Joined the wires together to complete the circuit, and plugged them it.
    Thanks to all that helped.
     
  11. Apr 27, 2023 at 4:27 PM
    #11
    Tama1968

    Tama1968 New Member

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    is there a jumper adapter available, or just make yer own kinda thing?
    my back hatch rattles like crazy with the bass up.
     
  12. Apr 27, 2023 at 7:37 PM
    #12
    dolbytone

    dolbytone New Member

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    This:

     
  13. Apr 27, 2023 at 8:24 PM
    #13
    Tama1968

    Tama1968 New Member

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    thanks. one other question....I know just enough about this stuff to not catch anything on fire (so far). I saw on another post that when you jump the hatch speaker connection, it changes the impedence of the rear door speakers-either 4 ohms->8 ohms or other way round...is that an issue that requires any other changes to be made?
     
  14. Apr 27, 2023 at 8:32 PM
    #14
    kcdude

    kcdude New Member

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    Jumping the hatch speakers sends full 4Ohm load to rear door speakers....if you are changing out the OEM 2Ohm speakers to aftermarket 4Ohm ones....useful mod.
     
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  15. Apr 27, 2023 at 8:40 PM
    #15
    Tama1968

    Tama1968 New Member

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    Hadn't planned on changing the rear doors just yet...will sending 4 Ohms to the stock rear door speakers damage them? ...then again I might...I replaced my dash tweeters with Infinty's last month and was really impressed with the diffference.
     
  16. Apr 28, 2023 at 1:17 AM
    #16
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    No, it won't damage them. Mine have been fine since I done this. But I'll also be replacing mine soon.
     
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  17. Apr 28, 2023 at 4:39 AM
    #17
    dolbytone

    dolbytone New Member

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    The OEM speakers I removed from my hatch were 4Ω. Connected in series with the rear doors as the factory has them wired, this applies a 8Ω load on the radio for that channel. Removing a speaker from the circuit (by jumping the connector in the hatch) would make that circuit 4Ω.

    A 4Ω load would be perfectly acceptable and no other changes are required.
     
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  18. Nov 4, 2023 at 6:23 AM
    #18
    Dirty Dog

    Dirty Dog New Member

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    Do you have the JBL system?
     
  19. Nov 4, 2023 at 12:57 PM
    #19
    dolbytone

    dolbytone New Member

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    Lord no.
     
  20. Dec 16, 2023 at 10:09 AM
    #20
    regius123

    regius123 New Member

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    I have a much more basic question (as I absolutely failed my high school electricity course). I want a pair of bolt-on (more or less) speakers to replace my stock in the hatch, and I want ones that give a good bass as the other door speakers I installed already have good clarity. I don’t think the bass from the hatch would have a ton of effect to my ears but I want to give it a try. I’ll be shopping on Crutchfield so any recommendation of the brand and model would be appreciated
     
  21. Dec 16, 2023 at 3:20 PM
    #21
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    #21
  22. Dec 16, 2023 at 3:46 PM
    #22
    Lc200

    Lc200 Member

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    There is no base coming from hatch speakers. The stock head unit is tuned to provide upper range and base to the dash and front door speakers respectively and the midrange/vocals are tuned for the rear doors and hatch. Ideally you want to have the same speakers you have in your rear doors for the hatch.
     
  23. Dec 16, 2023 at 7:35 PM
    #23
    dolbytone

    dolbytone New Member

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    What he said. Here’s the rear signal.
    IMG_6884.jpg
     
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  24. Dec 17, 2023 at 8:26 AM
    #24
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    I forgot about this, mainly because I put an aftermarket deck in my 4Runner, along with disconnecting my tailgate speakers.
     
  25. Dec 17, 2023 at 2:29 PM
    #25
    regius123

    regius123 New Member

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    Now the question is what happens if I install the Pioneer?
     
  26. Dec 17, 2023 at 3:25 PM
    #26
    GreatDane

    GreatDane [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, don't do that on second thought. Put those in the doors, and get a separate tweeter for the dash.
    You'll thank me still.
     
  27. Dec 17, 2023 at 3:28 PM
    #27
    regius123

    regius123 New Member

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    I am thank you now. :) so it looks like the hatch doesn’t play much of a role, once the dash and doors are taken care of, the only worthy step is perhaps an amp and sub. I just wanted a sense of completion and closure, cause the hatch is the only pair that I haven’t replaced.
     
  28. Dec 21, 2023 at 8:43 AM
    #28
    regius123

    regius123 New Member

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    I think i may go with Pioneer TS-A1601c component for the hatch, won’t use the tweeters, just use the mid range.
     
  29. Dec 21, 2023 at 9:00 AM
    #29
    Lc200

    Lc200 Member

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    The hatch speakers do play a role if you running stock headunit.
    They complete ( raise) the vocal output so you just not hearing the base and treble. Made a noticeable improvement in my car.
     
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  30. Jan 7, 2024 at 1:17 PM
    #30
    regius123

    regius123 New Member

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    My installation shop carries the Pioneed TS-A160 1C, a component system with a good mid to high range response (as I want the tailgate to also deliver some bass). However, not only there is zero review on Crutchfield, I can't find info whether the two main speakers (I won't use the tweeters) can fit the tailgate. The diameter is right, 6.5, but not sure about depth, impedence also works, 4ohm.
     

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