Air Bag Rear Spring

Show me some facts.

 

i'm not in a position to debate either way...only was told that by the company who manufactures the bags.

 

perception is a fact...that's a pretty tough ask of someone to "prove"

 

Whatever works for ya

 

No debate required. There's NO difference.

 

then go get em installed and share with everyone.

 

They're on there way.

EDIT: Arriving today by 9 PM

EDIT #2: They arrived, the box was mangled and except for the bags and instructions, all other contents were MIA. A replacement order has been confirmed.

 

If you're following this thread, have a Pro with the Westcott kit and are considering bags?
I emailed Westcott concerning the bolt they install to attach the rear spacer to the bump stop.

Their response. "You can remove the rear spacer bolt and run the airline threw the spacer and that will be just fine."

The Westcott provided bolt in question can be seen here @ 29:00.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3gAqzoZ4Hs&t=1756s

 

Getting into the weeds about using air bags which are inserted into coil springs. Humor me, this is how I do things and you guys are my sounding board.

Addressing my concern of their use in off roading conditions. The bags do not grow vertically when air is introduced. They grow horizontally, providing an air cushion between each coil spiral. The more air added relative to the load that's being supported the better the cushion(up to a point). The suggested amount of air to be added can range from between 5 and 35psi(max). For my intended use I have not discovered anything that alarms me about using them. Yes, there's a possibility of puncture...........but, I could just as easily blow a shock seal

Today I'll be taking measurements to verify just how much of the factory bump stop(jounce bumper) needs to be removed(versus recommended)?. The bags are 7.5 inches tall(plus a thin spacer used at the top of the bag to protect the bags air fitting). I think this measurement is of critical importance? I think.

"The modern 'jounce bumper' also acts as a progressive compression spring under loads that are approaching full compression."



Once installed my preference is to have the bags contact the bump stops(jounce bumpers) as close as possible to 23" measurement(center axle to fender-well),as is possible. *23 inches was the measurement before the gear(fridge, Jackery, shelves, swing out, spare tire, traction boards & mount.... etc etc) were added.

After some investigation I have decided to install a single inflation air valve going to a 'T' fitting(not provided). It'll be shared air between bags. A little babble here - long ago I knew a little about pressure being equal and undiminished in all directions and how volume and its displacement comes into play in a system like this, but that was long ago so my decision to do it this way is a gut call.

Just sharing my thoughts out loud. I'm totally open to input from anyone with suggestions or to help keep me from making a wrong turn.

Please speak up if you're seeing a hazard warning. Thanks

OEM bump stop

 

DIY'ers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktk2pjvsKGk

 

It sounds like whoever told you that didn't know what they were talking about. All trims have the same rear springs. The part number is 48231-35340 if you're not convinced.

 

@Moon Landing did your replacement bags show up yet?

 

Scheduled for delivery Sunday. Separate order but the 'T' fitting is Sunday too.

 

that wouldn't be the first time someone I've spoken with didn't know their shit.

 

Different rig, but I ran bags in my Tacoma with cradles and never had an issue off-road. I also t’d the line so on compression the bags acted as a “bump stop air cushion” if taking a good hit on the road, or on one side compression, the other filled up with excess air allowing full travel to the stuffed wheel.

 

Thanks for the been there done that input. Much appreciated

 

My experience was with an installation with two separate lines. Intuition tells me this keeps each side separate and prevents a weighted bag from transferring additional pressure to the unweighted side.
The air volume of the system is tiny—wouldn’t recommend a compressor devoted to this application. Air up to your estimated load (5-35 psi for Airlift) then load the vehicle. I experimented with significant tongue weight on my Ram and the ability to fight sag was extraordinary. It rides like a lumber wagon unloaded with 35 psi.
YMMV. Good luck

 

Thanks for your input always appreciated and keeps me thinking.

"YMMV".......a little.......but hey, that's how we learn

The volume is tiny. Thus my decision to go with a single valve system(in my minds eye it will better serve articulation?). "When to air?" Suppose a guy could do it either way? My preference is to inflate to the load. "Lumber wagon".....Teddy Rosevelt special, no doubt a rough riding son of a gun!

 

@Moon Landing thanks for the info so far. What needed up happening? How did it go? Did you make a different thread to follow up?

I will be doing this mid late this winter and am researching now.
Thanks!

 

Other thread? Not that I recall.

How it went.
Installed late last year. Dual fill(meaning the air fill-line has a 'T' in it). Couldn't be happier with their performance, and like like like the load versatility one has by simply adding or bleeding off some air. (checked all my boxes).

fwiw... Since they require such a low volume of air, as well as low PSI(max 35)I carry a pump similar to the one linked. To be clear, they hold air very well, the pump, just makes adjusting pressure EASY.

$76 TGBOX Tire Inflator Portable Air Compressor, 150 PSI Fast Inflation & Cordless, Air Pump for Car Tires with 6000mAh Rechargeable Battery, Bike Pump For Car, Bicycle, Motorcycles, Ball

https://www.amazon.com/TGBOX-Compre...chargeable+tire+air+pumps,aps,219&sr=8-4&th=1

 

Ahhh interesting, thanks! I was thinking of getting a battery powered Makita compressor since I already used a makita impact for my camper.