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Car problems

Discussion in 'General 4Runner Talk' started by Aman1, Apr 4, 2022.

  1. Apr 4, 2022 at 9:35 AM
    #1
    Aman1

    Aman1 [OP] New Member

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    Help!

    Owner of a 2005 4Runner.

    Ran into car problems yesterday after I took my dog in for a wash. Going to the store, the car started and drove just fine. after the grooming, the car started like normal, while I had the car parked, I decided to open the tail gait window for my wet dog, I then turned the vehicle off while waiting for my wife to finish shopping. When she arrived, I attempted to start the car again, this time however NOTHING.
    When I turned the key nothing flashed, the dash was dark, no beeping sound, no power whatsoever. After looking under the hood I discovered the following problems:

    1. Quite a bit of corrosion on the battery terminal, which I later removed and this restored some power back to the car (adjust the seats, radio came on, lock the doors).

    2. 30amp fuse for the Battery/Charge had blown. Figuring that was the cause, I didn't have a spare fuse with me, so I swapped it with the towing/brk fuse since that also takes 30A as well:
    upload_2022-4-4_11-28-29.jpg

    This did not solve the problem, as I experienced the same results.

    Next, I figured that the problem must be the IGNITION SWITCH so I went to the store bought a new part and replaced it. Still nothing!

    If anyone has any experience with cars or has had this happen to them and may know what the problem is, I would be very grateful.

    Sincerely,
    Aman
     
  2. Apr 4, 2022 at 10:17 AM
    #2
    Sixgunz

    Sixgunz Gold Member

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    I think you're onto something with the corrosion on the battery terminal. I'll bet the cable is almost completely corroded through under the jacket. I'd start there. That was the culprit the last time I had something like that happen to me.
     
    2Toys, BionicRandy, SlvrSlug and 2 others like this.
  3. Apr 5, 2022 at 8:44 AM
    #3
    Sandbuster

    Sandbuster Breaking Wind

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    Good advice from Sixgunz. If the cables check out okay then you "may" have a shorted battery - it happens. In order to accurately test your battery you'll need to get it "load" tested - your local auto parts can do this for you. Simply putting a meter on it and seeing 12 volts is NOT a battery test - that just shows surface voltage. If you need to just remove the battery & haul it down to your auto parts store and let them load test. Note: they may have to charge it for awhile to perform an accurate test. Good luck to you!
     
    The Kracka and Aman1[OP] like this.
  4. Apr 5, 2022 at 8:48 AM
    #4
    dxhum

    dxhum New Member

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    When I read your post, I wondered how old the battery is. Personally, I don't trust the reliability on a battery that is older than three years... if this is your case.

    But yes, corrosion on the terminals may definitely be the issue.

    I'd pull the battery and have it tested at a local automotive store and if necessary, replace. Also clean up the terminal connectors before installing.
     
    Aman1[OP] likes this.
  5. Apr 5, 2022 at 10:04 AM
    #5
    Aman1

    Aman1 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I will definitely have the battery tested and look at the cables. Love this forum!!!!
     
  6. May 8, 2022 at 2:04 PM
    #6
    AuSeeker

    AuSeeker New Member

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    Well hopefully you have gotten the issue resolved, if so what was the issue??

    Just an FYI many people come on a forum such as this one post an issue but never follows up on the outcome/solution, by reporting back what solved your issue will help many others in the future experiencing a similar issue, this is what makes forum like this such a great place but everyone needs to follow up so it helps others!!
     
  7. May 9, 2022 at 9:22 AM
    #7
    trlhiker

    trlhiker Lazy Bum

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    It is very frustrating when people never report back on what they did to solve the issue.
     
    Aman1[OP] and AuSeeker[QUOTED] like this.
  8. May 9, 2022 at 7:11 PM
    #8
    Aman1

    Aman1 [OP] New Member

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    Hello,

    First things first. I would like to thank all the people that provided recommendations for the problems I was experiencing.

    As it turns out, the problem ended up being a bad/faulty positive battery terminal. I suppose the chronic corrosion on that terminal should have clued me in, but I figured that if I occasionally scrubbed and cleaned it I would be fine.
    Anyhow, after replacing it the car started right up.
    Only downside being that I jumped the gun initially and presumed that the offending piece was the ignition switch. Crouching, twisting, and bending under the dash on a cold and rainy Minnesota spring, to replace a part that wasn't broken taught me more than just "character", I also learned to wisely seek advice from this great forum!

    Thanks again for the great input.
     
  9. May 10, 2022 at 4:28 AM
    #9
    AuSeeker

    AuSeeker New Member

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    Thank you for reporting back, it will help someone in the future!

    I'm glad you got it back up and running!!

    I would recommend getting a battery anti corrosion product to apply to your battery terminals to help prevent and decrease the amount of corrosion in the future.

    Also before applying the anti corrosion product to help get rid of any remaining corrosion mix some baking soda with water and take the terminal off dip the terminals and cable ends in it until it stops fizzing and then wire brush it and dip it again until it no longer fizzes, this neutralizes the corrosion/battery acid, if you don't it will come back faster, you can pour the solution on top of the battery to neutralize and battery acid on the battery case, rinse with fresh water and reassemble and connect the battery back up.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2022
    Aman1[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  10. May 10, 2022 at 11:29 AM
    #10
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    Two boons to vehicles prone to corrosion on the battery terminals: Marine Terminals, and gel-cell (Optima type) batteries.

    The Optima type batteries don't out-gas anywhere near the amount, if any, of battery acid mist. No acid mist, no corrosion.

    Marine terminals are the heavy lead, older style terminals. They'll still corrode, but even if they do, they don't disintegrate like the newer type, thin metal terminals car companies seem to have switched to. They also have a nice, easy, screw post to put the cables onto. All you need is a ring terminal and some heat shrink. Easy on, easy off. Meltwall heat shrink will seal a cable off very nicely from the harsh environment under a car's hood.

    I replaced the battery and cables in my pickup 30 years ago, they're all still in good shape. I use Optima batteries, too. Never had a bit of corrosion. Yes, I've been through quite a few batteries in that time, but no corrosion. All I do is pull the cables off once a year and clean them with a brass brush. A minor amount of differential metal corrosion between the ring terminals and the screw post on the marine terminals is the worst I've ever seen. I've never once had the click-no start problem.

    Just my experiences...
    Pat☺
     
    ElectroBoy and Aman1[OP] like this.
  11. May 16, 2022 at 8:39 AM
    #11
    Sandbuster

    Sandbuster Breaking Wind

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    And just an old "by the way", when servicing your battery connections always go the extra step of removing the cable connections from the battery (not just wire brushing off the external corrosion). I typically take a small knife blade and scrape the inside of the terminal connector then use a course sand paper to clean up the battery poles. Before re-installing the cables I twist check both of them to look for any corrosion build up coming out of the cable insulation. I know everyone one has there own way of applying a preventative to the terminals to fight corrosion, I personally just paint them black to keep them "pretty"..
     
    Ironguy likes this.

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