Your thoughts on this proposed audio upgrade? 5th Gen TRD Offroad

I've researched the web and this forum and have read quite a bit about various options to upgrade the stock audio system in a 5th gen 4Runner. Ive read about TacoTunes, OEM Audio + and various mods. I've kinda come up with my own list, but I'd really like some feedback. I seldom have folks in the rear seats so I'm focusing mostly on the front. Please take a look at what I propose for my '22 TRD Offroad and let me know what you think. I do not crank the music any longer. I just want REALLY good sound quality. That's why I'm picking the Flax Evo speakers and the sealed sub.

Head Unit: Keep it.
Dash/Front Door Speakers: Focal Flax Evo 6 1/2" Components (ditch passive Xover)
Rear Door Speakers: Focal Flax Evo Coax (driven by HU)
Adapters: TacoTunes Heavy Duty Adapters
Subwoofer: JL Audio Sealed box in floor behind driver (10" TW3) No-one sits there.
Multi Channel Amp: Audio Control 6-channel with DSP driving tweeters, front doors and rear doors.
Sub Amp: JL Audio mono
Rear Hatch: Disconnect speakers and shunt
Sound Insulation: Dynamat, etc. (various areas and materials as time permits)

I'm pretty darn sure this will beat the sound QUALITY of many systems, but I'm wondering whether I may be better off with a JL Audio VXi DSP/Amp vice the Audio Control DSP/Amp. I decided against the Kicker Keys based on conversations with Crutchfield rep.

Your thoughts? Advice?

 

Hmmm. Good question, but when I watch videos on YouTube....like CarAudioFab, etc...the power issue is never talked about. This would seem to imply that if someone does a good job setting things up properly in the DSP software, things will be fine. The amp certainly produces more power than I'll ever need. In my home, I use Klipsch Forte IV speakers and I drive them with a nice amp however I mostly use 5 watts or less to drive them. The sound would be very loud and very uncomfortable to the ears prior to any of the drivers being in danger of being destroyed. So, to sum up, clean power would be extremely painful to the ears prior to the speakers possible getting destroyed. Distortion on the other hand can and will mess up a driver. Also, I plan to use active control...not the passive crossovers (xovers). About xovers, I've read that most folks that have experimented USUALLY prefer active vice passive crossovers, hence using a 6-channel amp. I considered the JL Audio VXi line, but I have used Audio Control years ago and loved them. Their software is very well regarded and they have a 5 YEAR warranty....yep FIVE YEARS! HOLY WARRANTY BATMAN!!! That's really awesome. Car Audio Fab has a great video on the D-6.1200 where he discusses every single feature/control and that helped sale me to be honest...that and my past history using one of their equalizers.

What is it about the JL Audio that you like, which one do you have, etc?

 

I actually checked the Crutchfield site once more. That amp is actually rated at 125 watts RMS x 6. And yes, I don't need that much, but I wanted six channels of DSP control and that's the best bang for buck amp I think. I could have gone with their 4 channel amp and used the passive crossovers for the front component set of Focals (tweeters in dash, woofers in doors). The reason I didn't is I heard so many folks saying how they preferred the active control vice passive crossover control. I'm selling one of my AK-47s so it kinda pays for the amp plus some. LOL

 

I'd love to hear more about the JL Audio stuff because honestly that was my other choice, but I've never seen/used their DSP software. How does it contrast with the Audio Control?

 

I don't know much about car audio but I keep my eye on frequency ranges of speakers in addition to ohms range and wattage if they are compatible to the amp used.

If I use below 2 home music speakers though they have same power of 650watts I know the one with 32Hz can give me a nice warm sound slightly more than the 50hz one. So the subwoofer can be assigned with less work to focus on more drums, bass or low frequency work. This is why those sound bars with sub woofer available on market though they are loud you don't get the music pleasure. The vocals or guitars doesn't give you that feeling. I don't know how to explain well what I look for when I listen. In simple terms I would like to see the 4 speakers on doors to have as much as low frequency possible also good amount of high side of frequency + 2 small tweeters a decent high frequency + the subwoofer to have nice longer travel with low frequency. I don't look for super powerful sub as I don't want metal rattling sound I just want to hear non distorted drums and clear bass notes.

I wonder if its wrong if I say wattage would be how loud the music would be and frequency range would be how sweet that music be to your ears (assuming good quality music played)






Edit -

For sound / music lovers have questions why I showed power speakers? because my mixer is non powered mixer..

 

After setting crossover and balancing the tweeter output to match the woofer you won’t be in jeopardy of blowing them.

The AccuBass will definitely come in handy on the Audio Control DSP, but previous comments are correct in that the JL software is better, more intuitive and easy to use. That said, the AC software can get you there, it’s just more frustrating to use, and you have to be careful not to miss something from all of the tab changing.

I used the DM-608 in my 4Runner for a while but ultimately got frustrated with trying to completely null the OEM tune. The Audison BIT did the worst job, the Audio Control was better, the JL FiX did the best job correcting the signal for processing, which I feel is crucial to do before deriving signal for subwoofer. Granted the FiX is not a DSP and now I’m deciding whether to use my JL TwK or my DM-608 (want the AccuBass) after, but size is a consideration since there aren’t many hiding places for all this equipment in a 4Runner.

Ultimately it’s up to you what features you want to prioritize, both the Audio Control and JL are great DSPs.

 

I like that better than the factory way the front speakers are wired. It just makes sense that this would sound a lot better. I did not look at the dash speakers, but just make sure that they can be mounted in place of the factory ones. I bought a pair of 3.5” speakers with a plastic frame (I think they were Kicker) that I could not get to work and ended up having to buy some JLs to get the tabs and holes to work right so they fit flush.

 

Nice. Did a tick of audio myself in my pile. (i have some A-pillar tweeters coming soon, as well as i need to get some low end/subs) The only thing, id trip on, would be, if the OEM source even has low end frequencies. Many manufactures, will "cut" the lower freq's to prevent damage. Especially when you turn the volume up. Sounds odd, i know, but, many many do it. I dont know about the 5th gens source, as i put a after market in place of it. That said, you may be also be able to boost them back up, using whatever dsp you use. Cheers and good luck mate.

 

I’m getting a big upgrade this week and can help after I get car back with insight. I’m having focal Es 165kx3 3way installed in front with Jl VX600/6i running active. I’m putting focal Es 130 in back door and focal Es 100 in rear hatch with Addison lx 4.300. I’m having custom box built in factory area with a focal utopia 10wm ran by a Jl VX600/1i. Everything is dynamited and amps are hidden under front seats other then tweeter having to be placed in Pilar’s everything is in factory locations hidden. I don’t always turn up the music anymore and wanted the best sound I could get at any volume. I get car back on Monday and can post pics and feed back then about how it looks and sounds.

 

After much research, I may be narrowing it down. It seems that for DSPs, although Audio Control, JL Audio and Audison are very well respected, Helix seems to be the brand people recommend the most. Helix has a unit called the V Eight Mk2 which will do everything I need and provide two more channels for future expansion if I desire. The V Eight Mk 2 is a DSP/Amp...all in one unit. Also, I've been told that Focal tweeters can be fatiguing. Several folks recommended dropping the Focal tweeters and instead use wideband drivers in the dash so as to cover more of the frequency band and therefore bring the soundstage up. This makes really good sense and I think I'll give it a try. Another thing I heard was to not use a coax in the rear door because the tweeter will mess with the soundstage. Instead use plain 6 1/2 inch driver for fill. I also heard tons of folks recommend the Audiofrog GB60s for the doors but those babies are $1000/pr. so that's not happening. I love good music, but I've spent good money for my home for Klipsch Heritage, nice tube amp, nice D/A converter and streamer. I'm not planning to spend $10K on audio for my 4Runner. To those that do, more power to you, but that's not me. Here's my current plan:

 

I understand completely what your saying and I hear Felix is a good brand. I also have klipsch speakers in every room of my house. I have a very nice amp going to a full icon W series and in there rest of my house I have the heritage wireless set up in 3 rooms. So with that being said I didn’t want to short change myself and say I spent that money but it could sound better. Also I got all of my focal speakers for 50-60% off so that made it a great deal I could turn down. I love my music and in my last car bmw M550i I didn’t need to replace the stereo it had subs under both front seats and speaker quality was good. Toyota has always been knocked for there stereos and the JBL system did disappoint me for being brand new. After getting my car back and the job they did every penny was well spent. It’s a musical oasis to sit in that car and drive! Everything is as factory in car as possible and the tweeter mounts in the Pilar are the only thing that got modified in whole car cause they built the custom box in the factory spot. I put a active 3way in the front for what you where saying about getting full range. Here is the IG post from the people that installed it to see all the place of things. The only pic they don’t show is of the Audison amp under the driver seat. The JL amps both fit under passenger front seat. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cai-A1_IwHC/

 

More power to you. I bet it’s wonderful.

 

Holy wow is that impressive. Did not think it was possible to spend over $4k on audio and feel like I am slumming it. Very nice work on the subwoofer enclosure.

I went with Morel Tempo Ultras (6x9 Front, 6.5 Rears) along with a Morel 4 channel amplifier. For lows, went with a Focal Flax Universal 10 and a Gladden mono amplifier. After Dynamat and install, it was some coin..
Here is my far less elegant enclosure.

 

Your sub looks good mounted there! I’m sure it all sounds very very good, you didn’t go wrong with anything you put in. Where did you mount your amps under seats?

 

4 Channel is under the passenger and the sub amplifier is under the driver’s.

The SQ is surprisingly good considering just how small the box is. I did somewhat overspec the sub amplifier for both headroom and future flexibility.
The biggest debate I had was whether to sacrifice using 6x9’s for PolyKevlars and still am not sure I made the right call.

All in all, the results are excellent and the installer knew what he was doing.
Adding DSP next week and then no doubt the upgrade itch will strike….