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What up everyone!! I’m new here. I need some help on my 88 4runner

Discussion in '1st Gen 4Runners (1984-1989)' started by Stuckertattoo, Jan 28, 2022.

  1. Jan 28, 2022 at 10:05 PM
    #1
    Stuckertattoo

    Stuckertattoo [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Chris
    Vehicle:
    1988 4runner stock V6
    So I have a 1988 v6 4runner I was gifted from when a friend passed away.

    It’ll start up and drive fine but after it warms up it won’t fire back up. I took ot to a good friend who owns a shop here in Colorado, they said bad distributor. After further work and putting in a new one it still does the same thing after it gets to temp.
    Now he says it may be the ignition module(or also called ignition igniter)

    Anyone on here have this similar problem? I would greatly appreciate any help here. Thanks so much
     
  2. Jan 29, 2022 at 3:43 AM
    #2
    Toy4X4

    Toy4X4 New Member

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    RevTek 3" front- 2" rear leveling, JBA uca's, LED interior lights, Cooper 275-70-17 AT3 LT
    Welcome from Wisconsin!
     
    Stuckertattoo[OP] likes this.
  3. Jan 29, 2022 at 10:33 AM
    #3
    Stuckertattoo

    Stuckertattoo [OP] New Member

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    1988 4runner stock V6
    Thanks Jeff from Wisconsin!! I’m originally from Camp Lake area down south on the boarder.
     
    bferrie and Toy4X4 like this.
  4. Jan 29, 2022 at 12:23 PM
    #4
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    Patrick
    OREGON
    Vehicle:
    1999 4Runner, bone stock
    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    It could be a few things.

    It could be the igniter or coil. Sometimes they change their ohm values as they change temperature. If either one goes out of value reading specified in the FSM, it could be your trouble. Things is, usually if it that, the truck runs worse and worse as it warms up. Doesn't sound like what you've described.

    If I were to guess, and I am, I would think the Aux Air Control Valve isn't closing all the way as the truck heats up. It has coolant flowing through it, and as the engine coolant heats up towords normal operating temp, the valve, which feeds air up to the throttle body through the large tube coming up into it from below, on the left side as you face the throttle body from the front of the engine, closes, feeding less and less air into the throttle body. It's a EFI version of a choke, in essence.
    IF the valve doesn't close properly as the truck warms up, the engine gets air the ECU isn't accounting for.

    It also could be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The one that feeds information to the ECU, not the one that feeds the gauge that you observe. If the ECU is getting incorrect temperature information, it will obviously not provide the correct mixture to the engine. During a start, this is especially important, to actually get the engine running.

    If the problem with starting warm only occurs during the heat soak portion of the engine cool-down cycle, there could be a VSV or the Fuel Pressure Regulator failed. The engine, when you shut it down, gets hotter before it cools down, since the coolant has stopped circulating. When this happens, it can cause bubbles to occur in the fuel rail(s). The ECU will sense this, activate a VSV that causes the FPR to increase the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail(s). This reduces the occurance of bubbles forming, allowing good, liquid, fuel to the injectors.
    Check that the vacuum line going into the top of the FPR, and running from the VSV, isn't cracked or broken along it's length. Also, once again, the ECT sensor is important, as it feeds temperature info to the ECU. If the info is incorrect, the ECU may not be activating the pressure-up setup, so the truck won't start.

    So, there's what my pea-brain can come up with. Pretty easy stuff to check up on, generally.
    I wish you good fortune!
    Pat☺
     
    Stuckertattoo[OP] likes this.
  5. Jan 29, 2022 at 12:45 PM
    #5
    Stuckertattoo

    Stuckertattoo [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    Chris
    Vehicle:
    1988 4runner stock V6
    Tha is so much for all this info. It all makes complete sense. I will check the Aux Air Control Valve first and move on from there. Do you know if there’s a way to test that or also if I can plug it in to see if a certain code pops up through a diagnostic test?
     
  6. Jan 29, 2022 at 12:58 PM
    #6
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    First Name:
    Patrick
    OREGON
    Vehicle:
    1999 4Runner, bone stock
    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    I don't think it throws any codes, but I may well be wrong.
    Best way to check it is to pull it off, and open it up. Submerge the actual portion that the water flows through, and watch as you heat the water. It should open or close the valve completely with the water temp. Sometimes, if they get old or dirty, they cease doing that.

    Be warned, the screws that hold it's two halfs together can be difficult to remove. You may need an impact screwdriver to do it. One of those that have a heavy handle you can tap firmly on with a hammer as you try to turn it with your hand. Readily available all over the place, very handy to have. It'll break the screws loose handily without stripping the heads. Usually. :)

    Good luck on checking all of it!
    Pat☺
     
    Stuckertattoo[OP] likes this.
  7. Jan 30, 2022 at 11:04 AM
    #7
    Stuckertattoo

    Stuckertattoo [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Vehicle:
    1988 4runner stock V6
    Phantom Tweak. I’ll look into that as well.
     
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