What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

Does it allow high speed charging? Mine in that location does not, but the console does. Can you post a link to where you bought this one? Thanks

 

$15 56W USB C Car Charger Socket, Ouffun Aluminum Metal 12V/24V Multiple USB Outlet PD 20W USB-C and Dual QC3.0 Ports with Power Switch USB Port 12V Socket for Car RV Boat Marine Truck Golf Motorcycle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092M6S98V?ie=UTF8

 

I normally do at 5k but I was on a big trip so I uncomfortably pushed it to 6k before the change. But based on that report I think I’m gonna go to 8k and sample it too and see what they say. If it still looks good I’ll probably stick with that if not I’ll cut it back some and test again. There the experts and I definitely trust there opinion, no sense in throwing out perfectly fine oil

 

What if after that sample they say you're fine going to 10k.......would you go to 10?

 

I sappose it depends on the amount of additive left. Say it’s close ish to being done then I wouldn’t. I wanna leave a buffer to account for access idle time or heavy duty use, off-roading or having more than usual load. Gonna run it 8k on this one and see what it says I sappose, and go from there. I use black stone for my lml that I pull 22k with and I change it every 7k and the oil is still good. It actually picked up the trace Coolant in my oil when I thought I blew a head gasket. Turns out it was, Heads are currently in machine shop.

 

Is it Costly and time consuming getting the oil checked? (Ie: where do you send it, typically how much/often, how long do the results take?)

 

So, will you drive it another 8000 miles, take a sample, send it to Blackstone, get their report, then decide how much longer to run it before changing the oil?

Because that’s the way I’ve understood this process makes sense. As for industrial machinery and big trucks with many gallons of oil.

If you’re always doing a $30 postmortem oil analysis you’re almost doubling the cost of every oil change. Might as well just use the Toyota recommended heavy use number and change it every 5000 miles and forget the analysis.

 

If you get on black stones website they send you as many test kits as u want. Then you pay whenever you send it in. You can pay after u send the sample or I just enclose a check in the sample kit when I send it. Comes with pre paid package to send it back. $30 for the test then an extra 10 for the tbn test which is for the additives so see how much life is left. But the general test checks for all metal and contamination. All engine materials are of a different composition so if somethings abnormal they can basically narrow it down for u wether it’s scored cylinder walls, a bearing starting to seize, cracked or worn piston. Or even dirt from say a cracked intake or mis aligned air filter, or leaky injectors. I generally do a few on a vehicle to see how long I can push the oil changes, that alone eventually makes up the money you spend for the test. Then I’ll do one every 15-20k just to check up on the engine and make sure nothing has changed. They have a podcast called slicktalk radio where they talk about real life scenario where it’s saved massive engine failures or confirmed what was happening before engine tear down( like in my case with head gaskets) oil testing is big in aviation and rental companies like cat all do them regularly. I personally am really impressed with it

 

You do the first few to get a baseline to determine how long you can push it. Then you just do it periodically to check overall engine health. If you do it right, ie. not every single time the rest of the vehicles life then yes it will save you money and allow you to catch any issue before it becomes a complete disaster, like with the head gasket in my truck. Had I been off lesser mechanical incline I would have kept driving till my engine hydro locked and bent or broke a rod or piston or siezed my crank or something crazy.

 

Say going to 200,000k for example
5k changes 40 times
8k changes 25 times
At roughly $40 a change for oil that’s what $600 in savings every 200k miles so that leaves you with that much in testing and you should spend nowhere near that for tests. Once you get a baseline and do periodic checks. So yea there’s savings in a small compacity rig and even more in high compacity rig

 

How do you like the set up over your pro suspension?

 

Sorry it’s like a 3oz bottle and I take a sample when changing oil. Just catch some as it comes out. And you get results in like a week or 2

 

Thank you. I just ordered my test kit. Although I am on my second old change 11k miles and 2 years old. I will have to do it at my next one now. Doing it for both of our cars. Thank you for sharing.

 

Well the process has started… it will take some time but hopefully should have it mostly done this weekend. Current progress (my boys are helping me assemble):

 

It came out looking amazing. What size of tires are you running on that? Do you have any idea how much lift that fox set up is giving you?

 

Felt like I was about to break my fingers, but, I got the Pedal Commander installed today and made sure it was working properly. No codes thrown and it even kept the setting I had it on when it was installed in the SR5P.

I also bought a set of Victory 4x4's Strike Sliders, now to just settle in and wait for them to arrive.

 

Yeah, that thing was a bitch to unplug. I walked away a few times

 

Took the Limited for little 4low exercise after over a month.

First time center diff lock wasn't 100% smooth. Didn't had any delay engaging but I felt it's engaging. Afterwards when it switch back and forth center diff lock and 4high and 4low it was completely smooth. Did not take a video to share it as I was not expecting anything worth recording.

Just a reminder to exercise your 4wd system.

 

Lugs are here: https://www.methodracewheels.com/co...ts/lug-kit-black-spline?variant=8067618242596

They're the 12x1.5 ET ones from Method. I had these (same style, different size) on my previous Methods on my Tundra with no issues.

 

if you’re talking about the throttle cable… it was easier for me to remove the gas pedal. Two bolts and then do it lol took like 10 seconds after that.

 

I got my 4runner used, it's a 17 with 75k miles with the bilstein setup. I haven't had a chance to test out the different settings to dial it in yet, but the ride is definitely much smoother than my old setup on regular roads.

 

Thanks. I'm running 285 70 17. I went 3 inches in the front and 2 in the back.

 

Good father son time

 

Happy wife, happy life ..

 

Needed an easy mod after breaking my little toe on Wed. I got the drivers side A pillar handle installed today. By purchasing the prefabricated bracket it was not too complicated. Previously had installed the FJ jump handles in place of the crappy folding handles.

 

Finished installing the swing arms on the 4Runner. I still have to finish the license plate light and the rear backup camera but saving that for another time.

Measurements for bumper install (Bottom of fender to ground):
Pre bumper:
Driver: 39.75”
Passenger: 40.63”

Post bumper:
Driver: 38.94”
Passenger: 39.75”

 

Thumbs up for Accesorides system., better than factory. Help with resale??

 

It’s all plug and play. You can take it out if you really want to before you trade it in.

 

Sounds like a rhetorical question then. You owe her remote start

 

The solar panel cables were rubbing and scuffing up the top. Remedy (I think), installed vinyl wrap to top.

Install tip:
-Pay someone who knows what they are doing. You're welcome.
-If insist on DIY, while NOT difficult know it takes longer than ever imagined and it's tedious work. While unintentional the picture is deceptive. In-person, the initial point of work (driver side) turned out a whole lot better than the endpoint (passenger side). You have been warned.
-Oh yea, if you're short like I am, you will have to climb on top, thus the dents left behind.

Before and After.